Help, need to repair single union

In a perfect world Yes, but I could make that work. Been there and done that and it's quite a job to replace all that pipe.

Not really this is a 1 hour job for someone who knows what they are doing. I would make sure that I had a new pentair superflow union before starting though.

I wouldn't risk 1/2" purchase of a glue joint on something I had to warranty.
 
Not really this is a 1 hour job for someone who knows what they are doing. I would make sure that I had a new pentair superflow union before starting though.

I wouldn't risk 1/2" purchase of a glue joint on something I had to warranty.

Yes, but I assume he wants to replace it himself, I got a quote before from the pool guys here to change something like this, the price was north of 500 dollars.
 
Go buy a pice of 1/2 pvc and a handful of fittings and get to work with an art project. For $10 you will know all about putting PVC together. Try twisting it like you're supposed to, twisting it too much, try only glueing a tiny lip vs the whole thing. You'll learn a lot, and get a little high in the process. Don't do it inside. Need plenty of ventilation.


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Thanks all for all the suggestions.
I do prefer just to replace the parts in side the union (the stem only?) if possible, but I can't part using the marking on the union. (Hayward SP722-E)
I only see SP722 , SP722S, which I don't think it's the same. is it?
 
As someone already mentioned, it looks like your valve body is already damaged, so trying to replace the internal parts may not work. If it doesn't here's another suggestion.

I know it's frowned on by many on this forum (mostly those I believe who have never tried it), but it's possible to remove the "glued" end of your bad valve using a heat gun, a utility knife and a pliers. I've had success doing this type of rework many times.

You'd cut off the bad valve body just below the circular manufacturer's emblem. That will leave a ring of the old valve body still glued on the short pipe you want to save. Then with a utility knife you make a cut through that ring down to the surface of the short pipe (but avoid cutting into the short pipe), creating a "split ring". You then take a heat gun and evenly heat the split ring for a couple of minutes and then grab it with your pliers, right where you cut it, and peel it off the short pipe. You can then install an identical new valve (the one you bought for parts) and your back online with the exact same plumbing you have now.

Since you've got nothing to lose by trying this, seems like it's be worthwhile. If you don't feel comfortable doing this by yourself, ask a handy friend or neighbor to help.
 
As someone already mentioned, it looks like your valve body is already damaged, so trying to replace the internal parts may not work. If it doesn't here's another suggestion.

I know it's frowned on by many on this forum (mostly those I believe who have never tried it), but it's possible to remove the "glued" end of your bad valve using a heat gun, a utility knife and a pliers. I've had success doing this type of rework many times.

You'd cut off the bad valve body just below the circular manufacturer's emblem. That will leave a ring of the old valve body still glued on the short pipe you want to save. Then with a utility knife you make a cut through that ring down to the surface of the short pipe (but avoid cutting into the short pipe), creating a "split ring". You then take a heat gun and evenly heat the split ring for a couple of minutes and then grab it with your pliers, right where you cut it, and peel it off the short pipe. You can then install an identical new valve (the one you bought for parts) and your back online with the exact same plumbing you have now.

Since you've got nothing to lose by trying this, seems like it's be worthwhile. If you don't feel comfortable doing this by yourself, ask a handy friend or neighbor to help.

I had a neighbor that did irrigation that could do this stuff, it can be done, he even chipped old pvc off and then reglued to a three way valve, but its probably out of the realm of most average people. It definately wouldn't hurt to give it a try though.
 

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As someone already mentioned, it looks like your valve body is already damaged, so trying to replace the internal parts may not work. If it doesn't here's another suggestion.

I know it's frowned on by many on this forum (mostly those I believe who have never tried it), but it's possible to remove the "glued" end of your bad valve using a heat gun, a utility knife and a pliers. I've had success doing this type of rework many times.

You'd cut off the bad valve body just below the circular manufacturer's emblem. That will leave a ring of the old valve body still glued on the short pipe you want to save. Then with a utility knife you make a cut through that ring down to the surface of the short pipe (but avoid cutting into the short pipe), creating a "split ring". You then take a heat gun and evenly heat the split ring for a couple of minutes and then grab it with your pliers, right where you cut it, and peel it off the short pipe. You can then install an identical new valve (the one you bought for parts) and your back online with the exact same plumbing you have now.

Since you've got nothing to lose by trying this, seems like it's be worthwhile. If you don't feel comfortable doing this by yourself, ask a handy friend or neighbor to help.

It actually may be easier that you think to break the old valve off. The Hayward valves were made out of a cycolac resin which is a type of ABS. Typically the bond between PVC and cyclolac isn't that great of a bond. The cycolac is also far more brittle than pvc.

You would still find it easier/ better to replace everything.
 
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