HELP my pool is GREEN and cloudy!! (Pictures)

Are the numbers for FC going to be different than what I'm currently testing for? I'm just getting my total chlorine number currently, right? Why are there two different types of chlorine? What numbers are really important for me to know right now? Will the HTH 6-way test kit get me the numbers I need?

Sorry about asking so many questions!! :blah: :roll: Everything can be so confusing!! :hammer:

Thank you for being so helpful! :wave:
 
Both of those sets of levels apply to you. In the second set the recommended FC of 3-7ppm is the target level for the CYA range from 20ppm to 60ppm in the first table.

The important numbers in the CYA/FC chart are the MINIMUM that you should ever all the FC to get and the shock level for whatever your CYA is.

As you can see, if your CYA is really 100ppm. That means you should NEVER let the FC get below 7ppm and when in the shock process you should be maintaining a FC level of 39ppm {note that poolcalculator is not as aggressive and suggests shock level to be 25ppm}

Help! said:
So, what should the levels be for my pool?? I was told that the chlorine shouldn't go over 4.0ppm, that it would burn your skin if you swam in it.. Is that wrong?!

I can guarantee that no one on this forum told you that. That information came from someone completely misinformed with no understanding of the relationship between CYA and FC. FYI, unfortunately this is true of a majority of the people in the pool industry even though the relationship has been understood since the 1970s. There are many discussions about "what FC level is safe" throughout the forum if you want to search for them.

Help! said:
I just tested my pool again, at 7:1 x 8. It read 1.5, so it is really 12.0. It doesn't have a very strong bleach smell, when I tried testing it the normal way the chlorine level was so dark (which is why I did the 7:1 ratio). So, it has lowered quite a bit during the day (it was a 32.0 this morning)..is that normal??
Honestly, you are so far outside the accuracy range of that test by diluting that much, I am not even willing to speculate what your FC may or may not be. If you do not want to get the FAS-DPD test, I would highly suggest you just dump the pool and start over following this method: pool-school/temporary_pool_guide
Help! said:
Are the numbers for FC going to be different than what I'm currently testing for? I'm just getting my total chlorine number currently, right? Why are there two different types of chlorine? What numbers are really important for me to know right now? Will the HTH 6-way test kit get me the numbers I need?
With the methods you are using, you are likely only getting the TC. FC is the good stuff. CC is the bad stuff. Ideally you want CC to be near 0. If it is higher, that indicates a problem ... but at this point you are not able to differentiate it.

No the HTH test will not help you because it also maxes out at 5ppm. It is also a DPD test (pink) that will actually get bleached out and make you think you have no chlorine when in fact the FC is very high. The FAS-DPD kit should basically be considered a requirement if you are going to try to go through the shock process. Otherwise it is simpler and easier to dump and start over.
 
Help! said:
Okay..how do I lower my CYA? Do I need too? I was reading pool school and found different information on what my levels should be...
Answers in red
Vinyl with Bleach
FC 3-7
pH 7.5-7.8
TA 70-90+
CH 50-300
CYA 30-50

Chart found here: pool-school/recommended_levels

These are good recommendations. Many, including me, follow them almost religiously. Me? I'm OCD about it.

So, what should the levels be for my pool??

To be able to answer this, you need to open the 6-way and do the CYA test, and post what you read.

I was told that the chlorine shouldn't go over 4.0ppm, that it would burn your skin if you swam in it.. Is that wrong?!

In most cases, that is wrong. I don't know if it is still use in medical therapy for certain skin conditions, but Doctors used to recommend bleach baths, with the actual level of the chlorine upwards of 100 ppm or higher.

I just tested my pool again, at 7:1 x 8. It read 1.5, so it is really 12.0. It doesn't have a very strong bleach smell, when I tried testing it the normal way the chlorine level was so dark (which is why I did the 7:1 ratio). So, it has lowered quite a bit during the day (it was a 32.0 this morning)..is that normal??

You won't get a strong bleach odor from the concentrations in your pool. The only time you WILL smell bleach, is when your CC (combined chlorine) is high. This normally means that the chlorine has attacked something in your pool and is about used up.

For the large drop in TC, this can be two things.

Sunlight will "burn off" FC, quite rapidly.

The other thing, and this is more likely in your pool, is that the chlorine has been killing algae, and other undesirables in your water.


With the TF-100 or K-2006, you will be able to test for both types of chlorine. FC = free chlorine, available to fight and kill algae etc. CC = combined chlorine, the chlorine had attacked something and is combined with it.

The numbers you need most right now are the FC, CC, and CYA. The only one that your 6-way will test is the CYA. Now you can see why we are almost begging you to buy the kit. As mentioned before , the 6-way can only test for total chlorine.
 
In order to lower CYA, you need to partially drain and refill.

Go here:

http://thepoolcalculator.com/


Enter "3000" into the "size" field on the calcultor.

Enter "100" in the "now" field for CYA, and "30" in the "Target" field for CYA.

It says 70% of your water needs to be replaced in order to get CYA down to 30.


Once you do this, only use liquid bleach as your chlorine source. This requires daily dosing. Every day, say around 6 pm or perhaps a little later depending on when the direct sun is off your pool, you test the FC level of the water, and then dose the water with liquid bleach to an appropriate level.

In the case of having a CYA of 30, you could expect to lose 3 - 4 ppm (or more depending on usage) of FC each day. That being the case, you would want to dose to get FC to around 7 each day....never allowing FC to get below 2, or 3 ideally.
 
Okay, my pool is sparkly and clear!! I tested the chlorine earlier this morning, it was a 12.0 (it didn't drop at all last night!!!). I tested it again a few minutes ago, it was about an 8.0 (it's very sunny and over 80* today). Do you think that we can swim now? I vacuumed it again this morning and scrubbed down the sides of the pool. Thanks for all the information, I'm really looking into BBB and the kit you reccomend. Is there a section on this forum of pictures of the pools and price lists from the people who do BBB?? I'd really love to see that!

Before & After Pictures:

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