You can do a few feet or less at a time. Bigger percentages at a time are better, but it will work.
Hello West Texas!
- Thread starter Dunitall
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,861
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Glad you wrapped-up the SLAM. As for the high CYA, well ... it's up there. 
CYA will go down over time from splashout, water exchange, occasional backwashes, etc, but it looks like you're a bit over 90 perhaps? To try and estimate your CYA better so we know how high you may be over 90, try the following CYA Dilution Test:
Add pool water to bottom of sticker.
Add tap water to top of sticker.
Shake.
Pour out half so mixture is to bottom of sticker.
Add reagent to top of sticker.
Shake.
Test outside with back to sun and tube at waist level. Pour back and forth a few times to see if you get the same result. Double the result. That's your "high" CYA.
Depending upon how high your CYA is (i.e. 90), you may be able to simply ensure your FC stays a bit higher. Example: CYA chart show CYA of 90 = FC of 7-10. But if it's higher than that (over 100), you would be better served to simply drain some water to exchange it with fresh stuff. I try to keep the math simple like this: If my CYA is 120 and I want a CYA of 60 - drain/exchange 50% of the water. 25% water exchange would get me down to about 90. You'll know once you get the dilution test results.
Good thing is that now with TFP, you won't be adding any more stabilizer/CYA to your water unless YOU chose to. So you won't ever be in this position again.
CYA will go down over time from splashout, water exchange, occasional backwashes, etc, but it looks like you're a bit over 90 perhaps? To try and estimate your CYA better so we know how high you may be over 90, try the following CYA Dilution Test:Add pool water to bottom of sticker.
Add tap water to top of sticker.
Shake.
Pour out half so mixture is to bottom of sticker.
Add reagent to top of sticker.
Shake.
Test outside with back to sun and tube at waist level. Pour back and forth a few times to see if you get the same result. Double the result. That's your "high" CYA.
Depending upon how high your CYA is (i.e. 90), you may be able to simply ensure your FC stays a bit higher. Example: CYA chart show CYA of 90 = FC of 7-10. But if it's higher than that (over 100), you would be better served to simply drain some water to exchange it with fresh stuff. I try to keep the math simple like this: If my CYA is 120 and I want a CYA of 60 - drain/exchange 50% of the water. 25% water exchange would get me down to about 90. You'll know once you get the dilution test results.
Good thing is that now with TFP, you won't be adding any more stabilizer/CYA to your water unless YOU chose to.
So you won't ever be in this position again.
Ok, Great,
I'm new to all this "blogging" and I did not notice that there were "2" pages, I was only looking at the bottom of Page (1), there is a term for that...LOL.
The CYA test you referred too, I seen it on a blog last night, will do that test, today, when I get home.
Some where I read before TFP, "the recommended amount of time to circulate the pool is (3) complete circulations a day, and Now that I'm "LEARNING"
I'm curious if chemical levels change due to poor circulation?
Thanks Ladies n Gents
I'm new to all this "blogging" and I did not notice that there were "2" pages, I was only looking at the bottom of Page (1), there is a term for that...LOL.
The CYA test you referred too, I seen it on a blog last night, will do that test, today, when I get home.
Some where I read before TFP, "the recommended amount of time to circulate the pool is (3) complete circulations a day, and Now that I'm "LEARNING"
I'm curious if chemical levels change due to poor circulation?
Thanks Ladies n Gents
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,861
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Good circulation is important in a pool, but the amount of turnovers isn't always an automatic factor. Water clarity should be your biggest focus. For example, if your pump was on low speed most of the day, and by calculations the water had only one complete turnover with clear water, then there's no need to increase. Now if you noticed more debris on the surface, or settling down to the bottom because it didn't get caught by the skimmer quick enough, that may mean you need to adjust. Same could be said if you noticed more particles suspended in the water.
Also important for some pools more than others is the shape of the pool and how the return jets push water for good circulation. Some pools have nooks & cranny's that become dead spots, and the water doesn't receive chemical movement like the rest of the pool, therefore those areas may need more scrubbing. In those cases, adjusting return nozzles is one option.
We also have a few pump-related articles in TFP if you go to Pool School, then Table of Contents. Hope that helps.
Also important for some pools more than others is the shape of the pool and how the return jets push water for good circulation. Some pools have nooks & cranny's that become dead spots, and the water doesn't receive chemical movement like the rest of the pool, therefore those areas may need more scrubbing. In those cases, adjusting return nozzles is one option.
We also have a few pump-related articles in TFP if you go to Pool School, then Table of Contents. Hope that helps.