Hello TFP Community,
We had a fiberglass pool installed last year in June. It's a fiberglass pool that holds 11,400 gal (16x32) (3.5' - 5.5' deep) with Pentair IC40 SWG, Variable speed pump, an automatic pool cover (dark blue), Polaris pool robot and well water. Two Tanker trucks were used to fill the pool originally. Our family loves the pool and last year we had no issues. Because the SWG kept the chlorine levels pretty constant, I didn't add anything but salt last season and pool was always crystal clear. Started out this season with a crystal-clear pool and all was fine for a while. I found the TFP site and ordered a Talyor Pro test kit and did a few tests during last year and this year and all was fine ...for a while. Then, because the chlorine was a bit high, I was stupid enough to turn off my SWG for several weeks. All was fine until we got a 10-day cool spell during which time, I didn't open the pool. When it finally warmed back up and I opened the pool, the water was green. I turned on the SWG, but it couldn't take care of the algae. I began doing much more research on TFP forums to find out what I needed to do to get the pool back to normal. Due to my own experience with a pool store once, I only wanted advice from TFP while taking a lot of heat from my wife on why I "don't just call a pool company to come fix it!" I hadn't added any salt to the pool this year because my Pentair InteliCenter2 phone app and the control panel both stated that the salt level was still at 3800. I added 2-40 lb salt bags and turned up the SWG to 100% (was at 28 before I turned it off) and still green water. I started researching on TFP how to SLAM my pool and started adding liquid chlorine gallons to the pool. I made several trips to the store and tried to keep the FC levels up to kill the algae. It took a while, but I finally got most of the green to go away, however there is still al light green tint to the water even though it looks clear and I can easily see things on the bottom of the pool. Also, about 3 weeks ago the pool water was a little low so I added well water to raise it back up. We do have iron in the well water as it turns sidewalks etc. rusty brown, but I've never measured it in 36 years of living here. It does taste very good, and we've never had any issues a water softener doesn't take care of in the house. I did just recently discover that my pool test kit can test calcium and it was 350 on 6/18.
Here are some of my recent pool levels:
TA CL CYA CC FC PH TC pool was crystal clear
5/11/23 9 65 1.5 23 7.5 25 didn't measure TA
6/22/23 150 10+ 65 2.5 .5 7.2 2.5
6/23 500+ 10+ 50 0 50 8.2 50 added liquid chlorine earlier to kill algae, CL was orange, TA took 56 drops
6/24 500+ 10+ 70 0 30 7.5 30 TA still very high, CL orange, added a gal of muratic acid to lower PH
6/27 500 10+ 55 2.2 37 7.6 39 TA still very high, CL orange, water looks clear with light green tint
Over the last week I also added 6-40 lb bags of salt and the salt level now says 6750 and I've been running the SWG at 28% since the FC is high due to the liquid chlorine I added.
6/29/23 It's been cool again and when I opened the pool to look at it this morning, it's still got a light green tint, but I can clearly see the bottom and the sparkles.
I have used the pool robot and brushed the sides and bottom of pool. I have never seen any algae dust clouds when brushing the pool. The fiberglass pool color is light-medium blue with sparkles. When the sun shines on the
pool, I can see the sparkles and anything that's on the bottom of the pool. Nothing noticeable comes off when I use a brush. I need to add some more well water and I'm wondering now (by reading TFP forums) if the light green
tint could be from the well water. We have begun to swim in the pool again with no noticeable reactions. When opening the pool this year, due to the automatic pool cover, I had to add well water to the pool however it was still
crystal clear...until after I turned off the SWG! I also read a thread about the reagents being too old. I got my first test kit about a year ago and am ordering a refill kit today to see if that makes any difference on why my FC tube doesn't turn all the way clear but a hazy light brownish color.
And as a side note and a laugh- I sell chemicals to the RV,marine, and cargo trailer mfg industry in my area- but I've never had a class in chemistry!!
This is a clear lesson for another newbie of what NOT to do with a SWG.
I am looking for advice on how to get the light green tint out of the pool.
Bill
We had a fiberglass pool installed last year in June. It's a fiberglass pool that holds 11,400 gal (16x32) (3.5' - 5.5' deep) with Pentair IC40 SWG, Variable speed pump, an automatic pool cover (dark blue), Polaris pool robot and well water. Two Tanker trucks were used to fill the pool originally. Our family loves the pool and last year we had no issues. Because the SWG kept the chlorine levels pretty constant, I didn't add anything but salt last season and pool was always crystal clear. Started out this season with a crystal-clear pool and all was fine for a while. I found the TFP site and ordered a Talyor Pro test kit and did a few tests during last year and this year and all was fine ...for a while. Then, because the chlorine was a bit high, I was stupid enough to turn off my SWG for several weeks. All was fine until we got a 10-day cool spell during which time, I didn't open the pool. When it finally warmed back up and I opened the pool, the water was green. I turned on the SWG, but it couldn't take care of the algae. I began doing much more research on TFP forums to find out what I needed to do to get the pool back to normal. Due to my own experience with a pool store once, I only wanted advice from TFP while taking a lot of heat from my wife on why I "don't just call a pool company to come fix it!" I hadn't added any salt to the pool this year because my Pentair InteliCenter2 phone app and the control panel both stated that the salt level was still at 3800. I added 2-40 lb salt bags and turned up the SWG to 100% (was at 28 before I turned it off) and still green water. I started researching on TFP how to SLAM my pool and started adding liquid chlorine gallons to the pool. I made several trips to the store and tried to keep the FC levels up to kill the algae. It took a while, but I finally got most of the green to go away, however there is still al light green tint to the water even though it looks clear and I can easily see things on the bottom of the pool. Also, about 3 weeks ago the pool water was a little low so I added well water to raise it back up. We do have iron in the well water as it turns sidewalks etc. rusty brown, but I've never measured it in 36 years of living here. It does taste very good, and we've never had any issues a water softener doesn't take care of in the house. I did just recently discover that my pool test kit can test calcium and it was 350 on 6/18.
Here are some of my recent pool levels:
TA CL CYA CC FC PH TC pool was crystal clear
5/11/23 9 65 1.5 23 7.5 25 didn't measure TA
6/22/23 150 10+ 65 2.5 .5 7.2 2.5
6/23 500+ 10+ 50 0 50 8.2 50 added liquid chlorine earlier to kill algae, CL was orange, TA took 56 drops
6/24 500+ 10+ 70 0 30 7.5 30 TA still very high, CL orange, added a gal of muratic acid to lower PH
6/27 500 10+ 55 2.2 37 7.6 39 TA still very high, CL orange, water looks clear with light green tint
Over the last week I also added 6-40 lb bags of salt and the salt level now says 6750 and I've been running the SWG at 28% since the FC is high due to the liquid chlorine I added.
6/29/23 It's been cool again and when I opened the pool to look at it this morning, it's still got a light green tint, but I can clearly see the bottom and the sparkles.
I have used the pool robot and brushed the sides and bottom of pool. I have never seen any algae dust clouds when brushing the pool. The fiberglass pool color is light-medium blue with sparkles. When the sun shines on the
pool, I can see the sparkles and anything that's on the bottom of the pool. Nothing noticeable comes off when I use a brush. I need to add some more well water and I'm wondering now (by reading TFP forums) if the light green
tint could be from the well water. We have begun to swim in the pool again with no noticeable reactions. When opening the pool this year, due to the automatic pool cover, I had to add well water to the pool however it was still
crystal clear...until after I turned off the SWG! I also read a thread about the reagents being too old. I got my first test kit about a year ago and am ordering a refill kit today to see if that makes any difference on why my FC tube doesn't turn all the way clear but a hazy light brownish color.
And as a side note and a laugh- I sell chemicals to the RV,marine, and cargo trailer mfg industry in my area- but I've never had a class in chemistry!!
This is a clear lesson for another newbie of what NOT to do with a SWG.
I am looking for advice on how to get the light green tint out of the pool.
Bill
A few things to get you going.
