Hello, Awaiting 24' Round Install

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Smokenjoe420

Smokenjoe420

Active member
May 27, 2023
28
Clinton, Tn
Pool Size
13500
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
What up gang! New to the group and about to be 1st time pool owner. I've read this site back and forth. I've been trying to do all the research I can. I'll have the T100 Pro test kit, liquid chlorine, Mule Borax, baking soda and liquid stabilizer on hand. Not super confident in which order to test and treat new water. I plan to filter the water I fill the pool with. It is city water I'll be using. I'd like to simplify chemicals as much as possible. I haven't quite grasped the idea of shocking and how/when it's performed. My pool is stated to hold 13,500 gallons. I will have to keep my cover on when not in use for a week, until I get my fence built due to neighbor kids. Any help and tips is appreciated!
 
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Welcome to the forum. If we gave out gold stars for being pre-pared to take care of your pool you'd be a top candidate. The order to test chemicals doesn't matter. The only thing I see not on your shopping list initially is muriatic acid.....31.45 20 Baume. One questionable item I see is the borax. What are your intents on usage and for what purpose? It is a double edged sword. Baking soda is recommended for JUS raising TA with no side effects.

One thing off your learning curve is when and how to SHOCK. Shock is a product and pool store term. Follow the TFPC protocols and you don't have to!

Please add a signature ine to your profile like mine below listing all your pool particulars

Get familiar with and play with the Pool Math app and REread the ABC of chemicals in Pool School. Get your FC/CYA ratio fixed first. Then TA then PH.
 
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The trajectory is - get 30ppm worth of cya going & target level fc for that 30ppm
FC/CYA Levels in Asap via the hose stream (away from the pool wall) once you get about 1/2 full. Brush the area.
It will probably take a couple days to fill the pool even if you use 2 hoses since you shouldn’t be filling when the sun isn’t on the pool. I used a floater with some pucks during that time because I already had it. If you do that make sure you tether it so it can’t rest on the vinyl.
Once filled & running after several hours of circulation you can then test all the parameters & adjust as needed.
Most people’s fill water is high enough in ph & ta that there’s usually no need for baking soda & borax although they are good to have on hand. If they don’t get used for the pool you can use them for the laundry 😁
Most folks need muriatic acid to lower their ph as Woody mentioned.
Testing your fill water for ph, ta, & ch now is something you can do to prepare so you know what you’re working with & just save those results somewhere so you have them.
Adjusting ta is only necessary if it is below 50.
Otherwise just keep ph in the 7’s.
If you find your ph rising quickly & have a highish ta you can then actively try to lower ta if you wish. Otherwise just let it fall over time as you control ph with acid.
 
Smokenjoe420 said:
Without knowing my water when I fill it, I don't know how to answer
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I LOVE the way you think !!! We do NOTHING without testing. CYA, Salt and Calcium only come out (quickly) by draining, so it's imperative to always have a reliable baseline, or risk overshooting.

But this *one time*, we know that CYA is not naturally found in any fill water source, so it's 0.

And Welcome to TFP !!!
 
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woodyp said:
Welcome to the forum. If we gave out gold stars for being pre-pared to take care of your pool you'd be a top candidate. The order to test chemicals doesn't matter. The only thing I see not on your shopping list initially is muriatic acid.....31.45 20 Baume. One questionable item I see is the borax. What are your intents on usage and for what purpose? It is a double edged sword. Baking soda is recommended for JUS raising TA with no side effects.

One thing off your learning curve is when and how to SHOCK. Shock is a product and pool store term. Follow the TFPC protocols and you don't have to!

Please add a signature ine to your profile like mine below listing all your pool particulars

Get familiar with and play with the Pool Math app and REread the ABC of chemicals in Pool School. Get your FC/CYA ratio fixed first. Then TA then PH.
Click to expand...
Thank you for that. I just read on this site somewhere that borax was a recommended chemical to use. I bought all the recommended ones and none of the not recommended ones. I don't understand signature. I went in and tried to update some things under my profile. Don't know if it resolved what you are talking about.
 
woodyp said:
Your fill water will be almost zero. I wouldn't even waste a test on it.
Click to expand...
I've got the app downloaded and I mess with it just trying to learn it. I was just reading about introducing borates using the borax and acid method. This reads like something I would like to do. Would I do this after I fill and I have all other levels in check?
 
Smokenjoe420 said:
I've got the app downloaded and I mess with it just trying to learn it. I was just reading about introducing borates using the borax and acid method. This reads like something I would like to do. Would I do this after I fill and I have all other levels in check?
Click to expand...
Borates are the last thing to worry with & completely optional.
Using boric acid is much simpler than using borax.

Borates in pool - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 

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Smokenjoe420 said:
What up gang! New to the group and about to be 1st time pool owner. I've read this site back and forth. I've been trying to do all the research I can. I'll have the T100 Pro test kit, liquid chlorine, Mule Borax, baking soda and liquid stabilizer on hand. Not super confident in which order to test and treat new water. I plan to filter the water I fill the pool with. It is city water I'll be using. I'd like to simplify chemicals a.s much as possible. I haven't quite grasped the idea of shocking and how/when it's performed. My pool is stated to hold 13,500 gallons. I will have to keep my cover on when not in use for a week, until I get my fence built due to neighbor kids. Any help and tips is appreciated!
Click to expand...
Smokenjoe420, I've had a 24" round pool for 30 years. By far this is the most easiest pool to maintain. Here's my 2 cents; place the skimmer opening facing the prevailing summer winds, This will help force all the leaves/debris into it and reduce manual leaf skimming. If you haven't chosen a filter, purchase a D.E. type. These are top of the line! Direct the pump return fitting so as to create a "whirlpool effect". After heavy use, walk around the circumference (inside) to create an even greater whirlpool effect. After a few minutes all the dirt will settle in the center making vacuuming a snap. Invest in a very good quality winter pool cover and leaf net. Also, float a truck innertube under it but make sure to fill in the center so that rain water wont make it sag (in the center of inner tube). Purchase a pump to remove the water that accumulates during the off-season to make removing cover easier. Try not to drain too much water off of the cover during winter months. Water helps keep the cover from blowing violently in the wind. Obviously your local codes are different from mine, but why not simply remove the ladder until your fence is completed?
Good luck and enjoy!
ClubMike
 
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