Heater destroyed in 1 month? So confused! [pics]

[JJ_Tex]

At this point, I think the manifold is toast. I will have the pool company check the pressure of that.

And tell them no more freakin tabs in the skimmer as they can lead to an early death of your new heater. Or better yet, fire them and take care of your pool yourself (I know a website that can help...)

 

[Ahultin]

Even though the flex line is coming out of a PVC pipe, I can’t image that’s anywhere near being up to code

I dont care for the install either but Csst is legal for underground use if it is run in nonmetallic tubing at least 1/2 larger than the gas line and no joints are underground.

 

[schoeps]

So next steps, do I ask them to test the regulator? Is that a testable item?

 

[Ahultin]

So next steps, do I ask them to test the regulator? Is that a testable item?

TBH a new maxitrol regulator is <$50, I would have it replaced along with a new full port shutoff valve (the current one presents a restriction) and a properly installed sediment trap post shutoff pre regulator. Then have pressure tested static and dynamic post regulator.
I also don't see that you have posted a photo of the gas meter and meter connection, how does that look?

 

[Ahultin]

 

[JamesW]

So next steps, do I ask them to test the regulator? Is that a testable item?

Test the gas pressure at the gas valve.

This will help you determine what the cause of the failure was.

Don't just replace it without testing the pressure because you need to know why the heater failed.

The input pressure should be about 6" to 10" of w.c (water column) (see manual for heater for exact numbers).

2 psi is 55.4" of w.c, which is 5.5 to 9.2 times too much pressure.

 

[Poolbreh]

I noticed the new one leaking in the same way.

Leaking where? Leaking into the cabinet with tabs in the skimmer can do some serious damage. How many tabs we talking? Any tabs in the skimmer should be a sign to immediately fire your pool guy.

 

[JamesW]

Did the pump run continuously while the tabs were in the skimmer or did it turn off by a timer?

Never use tabs in a skimmer when you have a heater.

Let us know about the gas pressure.

If it is 2 psi or over 14" w.c, then it is the likely problem.

The installation of the heater should have been commissioned by the installer to verify that everything was working properly including the gas pressure static and dynamic.

Make sure that the new heater is commissioned and operated by the book.

 

[JamesW]

Can you remove the opposite header manifold so that light can get in the tubes and then take new pictures looking into the tubes so that we can get a better look at the inside of the copper tubes?

 

[JamesW]

Also, heaters have a pressure switch and not a flow switch, so the heater can fire if you have some sort of blockage where there is no flow but there is pressure.

Make sure that that cannot happen.

I would install a flow switch to make sure that you have flow before the heater can fire.

If the gas pressure is good, we can look at other potential causes of the heater failure.

Don't use tabs in a skimmer or a feeder near the heater.

 

[summertimesadness]

I also have Raypak. Bought the house a year or so ago and all the previous owners used were tablets.

Eep

 

[Bill1974]

No expert here, but seems like the output temperature is too high (the high limit switch should be cutting out the gas flow). Could be more than one issue. I beleive there is an output temperature sensor, it could be reporting incorrectly. This could show up if the gas input were to much and/or the water flow was to low. If the gas flow were to much I think you would see soot on the heat exchanger (not sure how over fuel would be needed before this would show up). Is it possible the VSP or valve isn't set correctly to allow enough water flow though the heater. The temp rise from the inlet to the outlet should not huge and the outlet temp should also be 105°F max (I think, i could be wrong).

 

[Ahultin]

@JamesW I don't know the raypak heaters but looking at the past months weather in the ops stated location, any chance that damage could be from acidic condensate dripping on the heater? The damage looks quite similar to the heat exchanger on our tankless water heater that had the vent pipe improperly sloped towards the heater instead of away.

 

[JamesW]

The UG should prevent condensation, but it might be failed closed or open.

In any case, I really think that it is excessive heat from high gas pressure.

That is the first thing I would check.

 

[Poolbreh]

Check the fault history. Is there a cooldown period in place?

 

[schoeps]

Can you remove the opposite header manifold so that light can get in the tubes and then take new pictures looking into the tubes so that we can get a better look at the inside of the copper tubes?

View attachment 500387

Hey James, thanks for the reply and to everyone who has taken an interest, I apprecaite it. Here are the pictures that I was delivered by the service tech...

 

[schoeps]

The pool is a Salt Pool, so to boost chlorination (instead of using the skimmers), I presume there should be something on the pool return post heater?

 

[schoeps]

Lastly, should this one be toast and the warranty company does not replace it, any reccomendations for a replacement?

 

[Poolbreh]

Lastly, should this one be toast and the warranty company does not replace it, any reccomendations for a replacement?

You need to figure out the reason for the corrosion first. You should have the gas pressure checked like James said. Check the fault history. I’d imagine if you had high pressure we would see high limit faults. Can you post pics of the entire equipment pad? Do you have automation? Please update signature with equipment specs.

 

[JamesW]

The pool is a Salt Pool, so to boost chlorination (instead of using the skimmers), I presume there should be something on the pool return post heater?

If you maintain the FC correctly, then you should never need to boost the chlorine (aka shock).

If you want to raise the FC, use liquid chlorine.

From what I can see, I suspect a gas pressure issue.

Did you have the gas pressure checked?

If yes, what was it?

If no, do you have that scheduled?

What diagnosis is being proposed by the installer, service person and Raypak?

If you want a new heater, maybe consider the Raypak AVIA or the Pentair MasterTemp.