I am needing to buy tabs for the first time and I am clueless. Can anyone please provide guidance on what I need? I just know the pool builder said slow release. Thank you!!
Hayward Off-line chlorinator CL220...which tabs to buy for first time?
- Thread starter jrh590
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- Sep 1, 2011
- 545
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- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Universal40
Most any 3" Tri-chlor tablets will work, stay away from anything with"blue" in the name as these usually contain copper, which is can cause staining. Also avaoid clorox products as they sometimes contain copper or other substances that they don't disclose on their packaging. Long term, you want to stay away from tablets and switch to either liquid chlorine (LC i.e. liquid bleach) or a saltwater chlorine generator (SWG).
- May 3, 2014
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- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
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How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.
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I read that before I posted. It just wasnt clear on size of tablets, preferred brand, compatibility etc. Thanks for always responding though!Welcome to the forum!
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.
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- May 28, 2020
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If you choose to follow the TFP method, using liquid chlorine (or a salt water chlorine generator) is the only thing you would use long term. The tablets cause trouble for anything but temporary use.
- Sep 1, 2011
- 545
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Universal40
So, here is I believe the answer you are looking for:
- The appropriate puck to add are any of the commonly available Tri-Chlor tablets or tablets on the market that are designed for pools.
- Using tablets routinely conflicts with the TFP method
- Make sure you maintain your FC (free Chlorine) IAW the band specified in the Chlorine / CYA Chart
- If you are going to use tablets, be aware of the following:
- Avoid any Clorox products
- Avoid any product with "Blue" in the name unless you know for sure it does not contain copper or other metals
- Long term use of tablets causes an increase in CYA (stabilizer) that starts to become an issue between 60 and 100 ppm, usually requiring at least a partial drain and fill (See here, here, here)
Greatly appreciated! I read the pool school articles and get the problems associated with tabs. My system in place goes against almost all of the TFP recs lol...ozone/uv combo...chlorine puck drip supplement. I do have weekly service where the person adds liquid bleach. Just my luck the ozone/uv unit is broke and and backordered...so right now its just bleach/pucks. I know I know, TFP frowns on ozone as well. Your response was very helpful! A few diff questions as im educating myself and will take over pool duties from the weekly service company...
1-When working, I believe the ozone gas will reduce the amount of chlorine needing to be added to keep the level proper compared to no ozone gas...can you confirm this logic?
2- when chlorine is added since I know the ozone alone isnt enough, liquid bleach is the main way its added each week. Their is a drip that will be on a low dose. I ASSume that is to help the chlorine left throughout the week between services since currently I/no one is adding chemicals between visits?
3-I also have an automatic pool cover that is in use whenever we arent in the pool. I live in Charleston, SC. As you can imagine it is hot and direct sunlight. The cover helps block the sunlight from breaking down the chlorine even though its still very hot temps...correct?
4-My pool is only 4 weeks old. It is pebble tech plaster. I just got my water tested at Leslie's. The Phosphorus count was 4000ppb. Would you expect this is so high because the plaster is new? Is that a problem? I read in the pool math app that I should ignore phosphorus altogether...??
Thanks!!!!
I’d get a test kit for yourself (Taylor K2006C or the TF-100) and see what you really have. I’ve never actually used pool store tests, but I’ve read about how inaccurate they tend to be.
I don’t think it’s that TFP doesn’t endorse UV/ozone, it’s just that they maintain they don’t provide any benefit for an outdoor pool. I can say before I discovered the TFP recommendations, I got my pool in a mess of algae by using tablets and TFP method cleared it up and it’s been clear ever since. After installing the salt water chlorine generator, the only money I’ve spent has been on liquid chlorine and acid. And I haven’t have to use the liquid chlorine yet.
I don’t think it’s that TFP doesn’t endorse UV/ozone, it’s just that they maintain they don’t provide any benefit for an outdoor pool. I can say before I discovered the TFP recommendations, I got my pool in a mess of algae by using tablets and TFP method cleared it up and it’s been clear ever since. After installing the salt water chlorine generator, the only money I’ve spent has been on liquid chlorine and acid. And I haven’t have to use the liquid chlorine yet.
- Sep 1, 2011
- 545
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Universal40
Man, there is a lot to unpack here:
I will give you my patented NEW to TFP Standard Rant:
Read the book, buy the test kit, add Liquid Chlorine for your Cyanuric Acid as directed (Probably have to SLAM for a little bit), enjoy your Trouble Free Pool
Here's the thing, nobody here is trying to make money off of you, we have no interest in selling you any gizmo's or products. The Pool Store/Pool Company sees dollar signs every time you walk through the door, and there goal is to extract as much green from your wallet as possible. The advice here is solid, backed by empirical data and years (sometimes decades) of experience with all types of swimming pools and all of the problems that come with them. So you have to ask yourself, who has your best interests in mind, and who's going to do a better job taking care of your pool, you (backed by this site and a solid test kit giving you known results as frequently as you need them) or some guy at a pool store who is at best a teenager who doesn't have a clue what he's doing, or at worst someone out to fleece you for as much as they can get.
/end rant
I will also add, I know you invested all this money in these Gee Whiz gizmos that the builder sold you on, and you don't want to think maybe you got taken advantage of. But, that ship has sailed, and all you can do from here on is do the best you can to manage your pool properly using the tried and true TFP methods. Follow the builders instructions for the break in period to retain the warranty, for what little that's worth, and after that follow the TFP method. Ozone doesn't work. Pucks are problematic, pool store tests are mostly worthless. Just my $.02, take it for what it's worth.
In theory, but what TFP has found is that is Not Effective. Ozone doesn't persist in the water, so while the water being passed through the ozone generator may be "sanitary" the water on the other side of the pool is still flu soup. and none of the ozone will get back to that side of the pool. Also, there is no way to test how effective the ozone is.
I don't understand this system. Are you saying you have something that continuously adds LC to your pool? If this is the case then just use this system. Whether you add LC in 1/2 gallon increments or in drips continuously through the day, If you keep your FC at the right level your pool will be sanitary.If no one is adding anything between visits, then yes this is the sole source of FC in your pool.
Yes, this is correct Sunlight breaks down FC, A cover will slow this down. Heat will also break down FC. CYA will also help protect the FC. However, as CYA goes up, you will need a higher FC to keep your pool sanitary.
Pool Store tests are not very useful. Phosphorous doesn't matter, just ignore it.
I will give you my patented NEW to TFP Standard Rant:
Read the book, buy the test kit, add Liquid Chlorine for your Cyanuric Acid as directed (Probably have to SLAM for a little bit), enjoy your Trouble Free Pool
Here's the thing, nobody here is trying to make money off of you, we have no interest in selling you any gizmo's or products. The Pool Store/Pool Company sees dollar signs every time you walk through the door, and there goal is to extract as much green from your wallet as possible. The advice here is solid, backed by empirical data and years (sometimes decades) of experience with all types of swimming pools and all of the problems that come with them. So you have to ask yourself, who has your best interests in mind, and who's going to do a better job taking care of your pool, you (backed by this site and a solid test kit giving you known results as frequently as you need them) or some guy at a pool store who is at best a teenager who doesn't have a clue what he's doing, or at worst someone out to fleece you for as much as they can get.
/end rant
I will also add, I know you invested all this money in these Gee Whiz gizmos that the builder sold you on, and you don't want to think maybe you got taken advantage of. But, that ship has sailed, and all you can do from here on is do the best you can to manage your pool properly using the tried and true TFP methods. Follow the builders instructions for the break in period to retain the warranty, for what little that's worth, and after that follow the TFP method. Ozone doesn't work. Pucks are problematic, pool store tests are mostly worthless. Just my $.02, take it for what it's worth.
Thanks! Yeah I just regret not getting a salt system plain and simple. I also don't have the time to manage the chemicals daily or multiple times during the week, so I feel like all I can do is have the puck drip during the week and the weekly service tech add liquid on Fridays. I never would have bought the pool if I would have to manage the levels with my current life and family stage.
- Sep 1, 2011
- 545
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Universal40
It's not that hard. There's a decent investment in time in the beginning, but pretty soon it's set and forget.
You can buy 3" or 1" tab but get 98-99% Tri-chlor and find an MSDS before you buy, so you know exactly what you are getting. Avoid the 3-n-1, 4-n-1, 5-n-1 etc. Those are the tabs that have extra compounds that can get you in trouble.
Also, don't believe all the doom and gloom about CYA in tablets. It can be a problem, but not always. Like anything, there are exceptions to every method. It also ignores that these tabs contain a small amount of boric acid, which is beneficial to your pool.
I think people in general misunderstand Chlorinated CYA. When you have a good pH (7.6-7.8), which is a recommended level by TFP, the Chlorinated CYA produces hypochlorites. Hypochlorites oxidize CYA. So when tabs are used in a properly pH balanced pool, they will release chlorine. They will produce some CYA. But then everyone seems to leave out the part that they will also make hypochlorites and oxidize off some of the CYA too. And then when you SLAM your pool, per TFP method, that also burns off CYA. 10 ppm of chlorine at a 7.5 pH will burn off about 2 ppm of CYA. So only using liquid chlorine means you will eventually be adding CYA in a balanced pool; each time you add the liquid chlorine you will loose CYA in a 5:1 ratio with good pH.
Of course, there is a time for liquid. You can't CLAM a pool per TFP with a 220. You will never get enough chlorine. So obviously I SLAM it with liquid.
I have the same 220 as you, and as long as you feed it tabs, your pool chlorine levels remain rocksteady once you dial them in. Personally, my pool is used 95% by only the household, so water is clean and I keep FC at 4-5 ppm, which means I don't burn through nearly as many tabs as a 8-10 ppm pool (which means less added CYA). I know a guy with clear water who keeps his at 2 ppm FC. The whole neighborhood might be in your pool, and you have a different situation.
Sometimes people who run down your equipment might just be plain wrong about your situation.
Last season, I started the season at a CYA of 35 and finished at a CYA of 40. When I reopened the pool this year, CYA was 35 (probably the result of winter pumping off of excess water). Where I live it rains a lot in May, June, and August, September. Each month I have to pump off at least 500 gallons of excess water from a heavy rain. Some months I have to pump it off 2 or 3 times a month. I think this does help keep CYA levels down (cuts it about 3% each 500 gallon pump off).
Maybe if I was in Nevada with no rain, it might be a different story.
So for me, I can use tabs all season long, maybe see CYA go up 5 ppm, which all goes away with winter pumping, and then repeat the next season. No jugs of unstable chlorine ruining clothes or loosing potency on a daily basis.
Check my feeder twice a month and keep it about 75% full. Done. I don't need to add CYA during the season either, one less thing to worry about. TA and CYA buffer your pH preventing it from going up. Boric acid in tabs buffers you pH a little and helps prevent it from going down.
But I measure my pool water twice a week and keep an eye on things. Any method you do can get you in trouble if you don't monitor your water. and try to figure out what is going on with it when you see something odd or moving away from ideal levels.