Hayward Max Flo XL Pump Won’t Start

[AJC9725]

I have a Hayward Max Flo XP 1.0 HP pump… image of nameplate attached. Went to start it up this season and it just makes a whirring sound for about 10 seconds then trips the breaker. The pump is only about 6-7 years old. I’ve tried cycling the breaker several times, but that hasn’t worked. I verified the impeller moves freely. I tried whacking it with a rubber mallet but that hasn’t helped.

Would you recommend trying to rebuild it? Could the bearings be worn and causing resistance to starting? The previous Hayward pump I had lasted 17 years so I’m hoping it’s fixable and I don’t have to completely replace it. Any help or other recommendations would be great. Thank you.

 

[Texas Splash]

I wouldn't place too much value on the fact your previous pump lasted 17 years. While very impressive, once a motor crosses the 5-7 year mark, anything can happen. I was going to suggest pulling the rear cover off the motor to spin the motor shaft as they can get a bit of rust from winter, but you said the impeller spins freely. While a bad start capacitor can commonly give off a humming sound when it goes bad, perhaps it can't provide the jump your motor needs to get going. Replacing the cap is a fairly easy and cheap DIY. If that doesn't work, it may be time to replace this single speed beast with a variable speed so you have better control and will benefit from the energy savings. IMO, having it rebuilt isn't worth the money.

 

[Texas Splash]

To be sure, let's ask @mas985 for his opinion.

 

[AJC9725]

I wouldn't place too much value on the fact your previous pump lasted 17 years. While very impressive, once a motor crosses the 5-7 year mark, anything can happen. I was going to suggest pulling the rear cover off the motor to spin the motor shaft as they can get a bit of rust from winter, but you said the impeller spins freely. While a bad start capacitor can commonly give off a humming sound when it goes bad, perhaps it can't provide the jump your motor needs to get going. Replacing the cap is a fairly easy and cheap DIY. If that doesn't work, it may be time to replace this single speed beast with a variable speed so you have better control and will benefit from the energy savings. IMO, having it rebuilt isn't worth the money.

Thank you for the response. I will try to replace the starting capacitor. Would you happen to have a link to a website to buy the correct starting capacitor for this pump?

 

[Texas Splash]

Would you happen to have a link to a website to buy the correct starting capacitor for this pump?

Last time I ordered a new cap I got it off Amazon. Ha. Just snap a picture of your current cap so you can match up all the details and you should be good. But let's give Mark a few minutes to have his morning java and check his messages. I think he's behind us on Pacific time. I would like to give him the opportunity to review your post as well.

 

[mas985]

The motor spins up before tripping the breaker?

Have you removed the wet end from the impeller/motor assembly for inspection? What you are looking for is any interference with the impeller in the wet end. You can also turn on the motor with the wet end removed to see if it still trips the breaker. If it doesn't then it is likely interference in the wet end. If it still trips the breaker, then it could be the capacitor or bearings but capacitor is easier to try first.

 

[AJC9725]

Last time I ordered a new cap I got it off Amazon. Ha. Just snap a picture of your current cap so you can match up all the details and you should be good. But let's give Mark a few minutes to have his morning java and check his messages. I think he's behind us on Pacific time. I would like to give him the opportunity to review your post as well.

Appreciate the help.

 

[AJC9725]

The motor spins up before tripping the breaker?

Have you removed the wet end from the impeller/motor assembly for inspection? What you are looking for is any interference with the impeller in the wet end. You can also turn on the motor with the wet end removed to see if it still trips the breaker. If it doesn't then it is likely interference in the wet end. If it still trips the breaker, then it could be the capacitor or bearings but capacitor is easier to try first.

Late last season, cycling the switch on and off several times, the motor would hum but then eventually start (as long as I didn’t let it hum too long before tripping the breaker). Today, it just hummed but never actually turned on. Turning it on and off several times didn’t help, and it eventually tripped. Sounds like I should try the capacitor first. I’ll do that. Thanks.

 

[AJC9725]

Late last season, cycling the switch on and off several times, the motor would hum but then eventually start (as long as I didn’t let it hum too long before tripping the breaker). Today, it just hummed but never actually turned on. Turning it on and off several times didn’t help, and it eventually tripped. Sounds like I should try the capacitor first. I’ll do that. Thanks.

So, the starting capacitor wasn’t the issue. I stand corrected from earlier… the shaft is not rotating. How do I access the shaft to try and free it up? Am I correct in thinking I have to disconnect the green wire shown as “1” from the capacitor, then unscrew the screw shown in “2”… is there enough shaft to grab onto to be able to rotate it, or is there a better way?

 

[AJC9725]

Image attached here. Forgot to post to last reply.

 

[mas985]

As I mentioned earlier, you need to separate the motor from the wet end to inspect the impeller and look for any interference in the wet end. There are 4 bolts (#6) on the other edge of the wet end housing (#4,#12). There are also another 4 bolts (#13) that hold the motor to the motor plate (#12), do not remove these.

 

[AJC9725]

I actually just did that and that’s how I realized the impeller will not move. Trying to wedge a screwdriver into the impeller opening to free it up felt like I was going to snap the plastic impeller so I didn’t press it too hard. Looking at a couple other videos on YouTube showed people freeing the shaft from back end, but the shaft wasn’t covered by the device shown in my picture.

 

[JamesW]

The corrosion points to a seal leak, which has probably ruined the bearings.

Also, the bond wire is not connected.

The motor is about 9 years old and you probably need a new motor or pump.

 

[1poolman1]

So, the starting capacitor wasn’t the issue. I stand corrected from earlier… the shaft is not rotating. How do I access the shaft to try and free it up? Am I correct in thinking I have to disconnect the green wire shown as “1” from the capacitor, then unscrew the screw shown in “2”… is there enough shaft to grab onto to be able to rotate it, or is there a better way?

Your pump has had a severe shaft-seal leak for some time. Evidence is all the corrosion where the motor bolts to the wet-end. Front bearings are likely frozen with rust. A new capacitor won't help. It hums, overheats and the "overheat" protection device trips (yellow, black, white wires attached). You can try to move it by removing screw #2 and getting the switch out of the way. If you can't move the shaft by hand its new bearings or new motor time.

 

[JamesW]

 

[mas985]

I actually just did that and that’s how I realized the impeller will not move. Trying to wedge a screwdriver into the impeller opening to free it up felt like I was going to snap the plastic impeller so I didn’t press it too hard. Looking at a couple other videos on YouTube showed people freeing the shaft from back end, but the shaft wasn’t covered by the device shown in my picture.

Yeah that sounds like a frozen bearing.