Hayward ColorLogic 2.5 Pool Light Failing

[rtkane]

EDIT: Removed it from the niche and took it apart to see there's moisture in the light, so letting it dry out in the sun and following steps from this video and this post to see if I can get it working.

Hi all.. I've had a GFCI continually trip and have figured out it's my pool light. I have a spa light and pool light--when I disconnect the pool light at the junction box and only have the spa light wired, I have no issues (spa light stays on and I can change colors, etc.). So I am assuming the pool light has gone bad. It was working a month ago, then noticed it went to a real dim blue a few weeks ago, and now won't come on at all since the GFCI keeps tripping. Assuming these Hayward ColorLogic 2.5's are not serviceable at all and just needs to be replaced? Appreciate any insight or suggestions. Light is probably 14-15 years old. Thanks!

 

[SoDel]

Another “belt & suspenders” approach would be to also thoroughly coat the circuit board and all connection points with waterproof conformal coating before sealing it all back up. I’ve used it on boards that need to exist outside (inevitably get wet or moist from condensate no matter how well “sealed” the enclosure) and it works, at least for that.

422C - Silicone Conformal Coating

Certified UL94 V-0 (File# E203094) Maximum service temperature of 200 °C Fast cure – tack free in about 10 min; dries in 20 min at 65 °C [149 °F] Fluoresces under UV-A light Validated for selective robotic coating equipment Corrosion resistant

www.mgchemicals.com

 

[rtkane]

Another “belt & suspenders” approach would be to also thoroughly coat the circuit board and all connection points with waterproof conformal coating before sealing it all back up. I’ve used it on boards that need to exist outside (inevitably get wet or moist from condensate no matter how well “sealed” the enclosure) and it works, at least for that.

422C - Silicone Conformal Coating

Certified UL94 V-0 (File# E203094) Maximum service temperature of 200 °C Fast cure – tack free in about 10 min; dries in 20 min at 65 °C [149 °F] Fluoresces under UV-A light Validated for selective robotic coating equipment Corrosion resistant

www.mgchemicals.com

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately while the light is no longer tripping the breaker after drying out, it won't change colors and is very dim. I think it'll need to be replaced.

 

[SoDel]

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately while the light is no longer tripping the breaker after drying out, it won't change colors and is very dim. I think it'll need to be replaced.

Trying to dry it out was a good idea and at least now you are armed with the conclusive diagnosis of the source of the ground fault problem (looking on the “bright” side of the issue with the light).

 

[rtkane]

Trying to dry it out was a good idea and at least now you are armed with the conclusive diagnosis of the source of the ground fault problem (looking on the “bright” side of the issue with the light).

Would you think that if I've dried it out and the light is just dim with green and blue LED's showing, that the light is bad? Or is it possible it wasn't fully dry? I think I've eliminated everything else, but before I spend $900 on a new light, I figured I'd ask. Thanks!

 

[SoDel]

For 900 bucks, I’d keep trying. As something to try, rinse well with deionized water and dry in a warm but not hot oven. If it still doesn’t work, likely fried.

 

[rtkane]

I'll have to try that. Unfortunately it's one of those lights that's connected through 100' of conduit, so I can't take it out to put in the oven, but I will try to bake it in the sun some more.