Has sodium bromide been used in this pool?

RexO

Well-known member
May 24, 2020
59
Melbourne, FL
My son is taking over maintenance of his own pool and I am trying to give him advise. He will be joining TFP and learning on his own, but I am helping him get started. It's a 10K gallon plaster pool, no SWCG. Pentair single speed pump (not sure the size), Jandy cartridge filter. The pool has a Northern exposure in Central Florida and is screened-in so is a bit shaded from direct sunlight. He has had a pool service for the couple of years that he has owned the house/pool. I tested the waters last summer with my Taylor 2006 kit and found his CYA to be well over 100. The TC was 13, no CCs. I told him to tell his pool company to stop using so many stabilized chlorine tabs and let the CYA come down. He bought a TF-100 kit a couple of weeks ago in preparation to take over his pool. TC 8, CC 0, TA 80, Calcium 350, CYA 50, pH 8.0. He added acid to lower to pH to 7.6 and figured everything was looking pretty good compared to last summer. We went to a pool store to get a TDS reading and some liquid chlorine. I still use pool stores for supplies, but never accept their advice or pay much attention to their test results. This time, the test results were very close to what we found with the TF-100 kit. Except, the pool guy said TC was 8 but Free Chlorine was only 4. I told him there was no way the pool had 4 ppm of CC, I tested 8 TC with zero CC. I explained that we were taking over the pool from the pool service company. Then he said they might be using a sodium bromide product and we could be picking up the FC plus bromine/bromide with our test. The pool store is using the ACCUBLUE testing system. My son is checking with the dismissed pool service company to see if they have been using sodium bromide or not. 1. My initial question for experts in this forum, is there a good way to verify whether or not sodium bromide has been used and how much? My son wants to follow the TFP method, so we he is going to work to eliminate the bromide/bromine over time if we can confirm that bromine is throwing of his testing. I have read up on sodium bromide/bromine in this forum and it seems the best way to eliminate the bromine/bromide it to chlorinate well and drain/fill over time. In Florida we must be concerned about floating the pool on ground water, so I understand he should only drain a few inches at a time before re-filling. 2. Any other advice from the TFP team?
 
What the pool store salesman told you is incorrect, he's just trying to cover for their lack of reliability. I'm a bit confused by your terminology, do you mean "FC" when you're saying "TC"?

Whether or not sodium bromide has been used (no real way to tell for sure and if the only reason to believe it has been is the face saving musings of a salesman then I have doubts) the CYA level warrants a massive water exchange. Removing the source of CYA is only the first step, it will take far too long for the CYA to break down naturally so water exchange is what's required.

My only advice is to stop taking water samples to the pool store. We get posts like this all the time where someone has taken their water to the pool store and is confused by the discrepancies. Never have I seen one where someone took their water to a pool store and left there understanding their situation better.
 
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What the pool store salesman told you is incorrect, he's just trying to cover for their lack of reliability. I'm a bit confused by your terminology, do you mean "FC" when you're saying "TC"?

Whether or not sodium bromide has been used (no real way to tell for sure and if the only reason to believe it has been is the face saving musings of a salesman then I have doubts) the CYA level warrants a massive water exchange. Removing the source of CYA is only the first step, it will take far too long for the CYA to break down naturally so water exchange is what's required.

My only advice is to stop taking water samples to the pool store. We get posts like this all the time where someone has taken their water to the pool store and is confused by the discrepancies. Never have I seen one where someone took their water to a pool store and left there understanding their situation better.
The salesman used the term Free Chlorine. He said that while I had TC of 8 that his testing showed Free Chlorine was only 4. I absolutely know my son's pool doesn't have 4 in CC because my testing shows 0 CC. So, I am just considering the possibility that there is 4 ppm of bromine/bromide. That is possible if the pool service company started adding sodium bromide.
The CYA is now in normal range (50) because the pool company stopped using stabilized Chlorine months ago.
 
How is it that you are testing your Total Chlorine and Combined Chlorine without testing your Free Chlorine?
Oh...I see your point now. I was using the wrong term. I tested FC at 8 with the FAS -DPD test. Then confirmed 0 CC by adding the 5 drops of R-0003 and no pink appeared.

But the concern put in my head from the salesman is that he measured 4 FC and 8 TC inferring I had must have 4 CC. When I shut that down he said that my FAS-DPD results could be showing 4 FC and 4 bromide as the test would read bromide as FC. It may be BS but it seems possible. I have never seen a discrepancy so high in my testing for Chlorine vs the pool store testing. I must get a pool store test every month for the warranty of my pool. But I am also aware that it could be complete BS. But wondering if there is away to know one way or the other. My son is taking over the pool and he doesn't want Bromide throwing off the gameplay.
 
But the concern put in my head from the salesman
Is nothing but a poorly concocted excuse to try explaining the discrepancy without admitting that their equipment is only designed to make sales. Chlorine and Bromine will show up on tests as the same thing, the numbers not aligning points to poor testing on their part and does not point to the presence of bromide in the water.

While bromide is a common tool in the industry and it doesn't hurt to follow up with people to confirm it hasn't, nothing you've mentioned raises any flags that this is the case. The primary indicator would be chronic FC loss during the day. As bromine isn't protected by CYA the way chlorine is it burns off significantly faster than chlorine in a pool with adequate CYA. What you would notice in your son's pool would be a significant loss of FC between morning and night, but no loss overnight. If the chlorine levels are holding fairly steady during the day then it's unlikely for there to be bromide in the water. If there really were 9 ppm bromide in the water (bromine numbers aren't 1:1 with chlorine on tests, but that's getting in to the weeds) it would be pretty obvious.
 
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Is nothing but a poorly concocted excuse to try explaining the discrepancy without admitting that their equipment is only designed to make sales. Chlorine and Bromine will show up on tests as the same thing, the numbers not aligning points to poor testing on their part and does not point to the presence of bromide in the water.

While bromide is a common tool in the industry and it doesn't hurt to follow up with people to confirm it hasn't, nothing you've mentioned raises any flags that this is the case. The primary indicator would be chronic FC loss during the day. As bromine isn't protected by CYA the way chlorine is it burns off significantly faster than chlorine in a pool with adequate CYA. What you would notice in your son's pool would be a significant loss of FC between morning and night, but no loss overnight. If the chlorine levels are holding fairly steady during the day then it's unlikely for there to be bromide in the water. If there really were 9 ppm bromide in the water (bromine numbers aren't 1:1 with chlorine on tests, but that's getting in to the weeds) it would be pretty obvious.
Thanks. I will tell him what to look for.
 
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