Got Some Chemistry Issues

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Did you go to the link I told you about for the pump run time?

Here is your next learning experience----------------Running your waterfall will do what???(raise or lower) to what??????(FC, PH, TA, CYA) in your water? Again look in the table of contents and find the recommended levels link. The answer will be in there.

Kim
 
Yes, I did and I will have to get more info from the pump to get the flow rate and then figure out how long the run time should be.

Running the waterfall will result in greater aeration, which will raise the pH. The pH has been right about 6.8 since starting testing and hasn't raised any. However, you also pointed out that with FC >10, the pH test is unreliable... so I really don't know where my pH is at right now. I did read through just about everything once when the pool guy was taking care of things. It all got mooshed together and only now is starting to really make sense.. :D
 
OK, got my submersible pump coming Friday. I have some volunteer work to do in the morning, but the plan is to start draining in the afternoon when we get home (providing the pump is here) and babysit it pretty much the whole time. We are night people so this will work nicely with my schedule. I'm also planning on getting in there and really scrubbing those curvy areas, especially around the stairs that are hard to get with the brush on the pole. I think I will also take the filter apart and clean the cartridges. It was done about a month and a half ago, but I did not check the pressure immediately and it looks like it has gone up to me, from maybe about 15 to running a bit over 20 now. I'm leaning toward a 1/3 drain, mostly because of the heat, but I really want to start seeing some more normal numbers on the tests!!!

If things come up, I will be using this thread instead of making a new one, unless the general consensus is to start a new one.. :) Thanks for all the suggestions and advice!!
 
If you have a low water table I would recommend doing fewer larger water changes than multiple smaller ones. if you can get 50% on your first attempt that is huge. larger drain/refill is much more effective, as in saving water and time. but water table is critical. I would think your fine in AZ but always worth checking. dig a hole next to pool to the level that 50% drain would be. if it stays dry, you have water table lower than that, so you are good to go.

after you refill, retest your CYA and make sure to get your FC back in there asap.
 
The biggest concern I've heard with the heat and a bigger drain is cracking of the Pebble-Tec and/or underlying plaster. Some people think it's going to be a problem, some don't. I'm going to be home all weekend and am able to babysit the whole process. But I've done my homework, studied this site (many, many posts like mine), and researched until I'm already dreaming about this process, so I feel comfortable with it.
 
its an established concrete pool, temperature doesn't matter. vinyl could have issues. curing concrete in high temperatures is a lot different, like with a new pool build. the heat and it causing drying could be an issue that results in cracks...but that's not your situation. would love to see someone point to a reason why it would be. get that pool drained, the sooner you do, the sooner you are swimming! :)
 

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DaninFLA said:
its an established concrete pool, temperature doesn't matter. vinyl could have issues. curing concrete in high temperatures is a lot different, like with a new pool build. the heat and it causing drying could be an issue that results in cracks...but that's not your situation. would love to see someone point to a reason why it would be. get that pool drained, the sooner you do, the sooner you are swimming! :)
Click to expand...

Following this thread, since we are in Gilbert, too :) .. Am new to pools and we have the shotcrete for about 2 1/2 weeks now. Deck work is going on. I watered the shotcrete for a week or so daily. But haven't watered it since. It is bone dry. Will this cause any damage to the shell in this temp? The PB said the shell needs only 5 days of watering... I did it for 7.
 
Nighthawk224 said:
I just had a further thought. I was kind of sad to have to drain/refill in summer so I would have to wait a while before swimming (for the water to warm up), but then I remembered that when you turn on the cold water in AZ, you get hot anyway for a while, so that should help... :)

So far I have not tinkered with the timer settings, they are the same as the previous owner. He had the pump system set for about 7.5 to 8 hours. When we first moved it, it would start early morning and end in the afternoon. We have since had to shut off the breaker to replace the pool light (an adventure all on its own) and because we had to get the old bulb out and go to the pool store for a replacement, it was off a number of hours. So now the pump starts up early afternoon and ends just before midnight. Does the timing of the pump cycling make much difference to the health of the pool? I feel like I have learned a TON in the last few weeks and only just starting to realize how little I really do know.
Click to expand...

When you shut off the breaker, the clock part of the timer stopped. You just need to rotate the dial so that it knows the correct time again (pull and turn if it is an Intermatic timer).

If you are on one of the timed savings plan with your electric company, you can save a ton of money by running the pump outside of 'prime time'. I'm in Gilbert as well and on APS's 12-7 plan, so I run the pump twice a day. 4 hours in the morning (7-11) and 4 hours in the evening (8-midnight). If you only have one set of on/off tabs for the timer, you can get additional ones at Home Depot or similar for a few dollars.
 
The day went very well. Sun just quit hitting any part of the drained pool walls and all walls stayed cool and moist all day. Still would like to get 2 or 3 inches more to get closer to a 2/3 drain. Hopefully will start filling in a while. Whew, what a process! Boyfriend helped a bunch and he even read this thread...
 

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