I have had 3 LEDs go bad this year. The first 2 were under warranty and the 3rd is not. The PB wants $474 for the light and $150 labor. Yikes. It looks like I can get this on Amazon for $350. Is this something I can do myself or is it best to just have the PB do it.
Globrite LEDs replacement
- Thread starter etherscreen
- Start date
- May 23, 2015
- 24,693
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Replacing the light requires that you cut the old light off it's cord and then use that cut cord to "pull" the new cord through the niche and conduit back to the equipment pad. Unless you're familiar with doing this (and how to avoid a stuck cord) as well as doing the electrical rewiring at the junction box, then I'd say it's always best to let the PB assume the risk and get the job done...$150 for labor and guarantee of workmanship is not unreasonable. His markup on the replacement part is pretty high, but it is what it is....you could always ask why he's charging such a high premium over online prices but that could land you in an argument if he's not in the mood to haggle. Buying online and doing it yourself will often void Pentair warranties so he may be charging extra for a full year warranty. But even under that circumstance, his markup is kind of ridiculous...
I've had to replace several of these. Shocker I know! These things have to be the most poorly designed pool light ever and Pentair should be embarrassed. And since the housing is embedded in the pool plaster, kind of hard to change.
Never tried to use the old cord as a pull string. I've normally just pulled the old light out with pull string attached at the j-box. Then pull the new one back through using the pull string.
For your way, do you strip off the housing and just tape the bare wires together with electrical tape to secure the two cords together to withstand the pulling forces? I haven't needed to fish a new pull string through the conduit so I don't know how difficult that would be if I lost my pull string.
Never tried to use the old cord as a pull string. I've normally just pulled the old light out with pull string attached at the j-box. Then pull the new one back through using the pull string.
For your way, do you strip off the housing and just tape the bare wires together with electrical tape to secure the two cords together to withstand the pulling forces? I haven't needed to fish a new pull string through the conduit so I don't know how difficult that would be if I lost my pull string.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,035
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I like your way better, with a pull rope. It'll cause less friction and be easier to pull. I've used this method in conduit when a fish tape wasn't able to make the pull: pull a rope with the fish first, then pull the wire with the rope. I'd go one step farther, if the conduit isn't very long. Use a longer rope and tie off the end of the new wire midway, such that even after you've completed the pull, the rope is still hanging out of both ends of the conduit. Once done, you pull out the rope. That way, if you get stuck or your connection between rope and wire gets undone, whatever, you never lose the rope and can try again. Tie the rope ends together, to form a loop, to be even safer. Assuming, of course, there is enough space in the conduit for both the new wire and the diameter of your rope, so that the rope and wire together don't cause a jam.
Don't get me started on Pentair lights. I'm getting ready to replace my not-so-IntelliBrite for the second time (three in less than three years?!? ). Gotta love 'em: they don't last long, but at least they're expensive! Mine goes into a standard niche, so I can bail on Pentair if I want. Let me guess, your housing is proprietary and only fits a Pentair replacement? Nice racket they got goin' on...
Don't get me started on Pentair lights. I'm getting ready to replace my not-so-IntelliBrite for the second time (three in less than three years?!? ). Gotta love 'em: they don't last long, but at least they're expensive! Mine goes into a standard niche, so I can bail on Pentair if I want. Let me guess, your housing is proprietary and only fits a Pentair replacement? Nice racket they got goin' on...
Last edited:
I assumed it was proprietary. Mine are the black ones about 5 inches long that you insert then turn 1/4 turn to lock. When I search the model number, different varieties come up. I normally search for part number 602055 as that is the 100' variety. But on Pentair's website, it shows a different looking light. Not sure if that is the vinyl version or if they have changed them??
I've attached the pictures. Mine is the black one. Anyone know what the other two are? They also come up under the same SKU number.
I've attached the pictures. Mine is the black one. Anyone know what the other two are? They also come up under the same SKU number.
Attachments
- May 23, 2015
- 24,693
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Either pull method is fine, do what works best for you.
I’ve said it a thousand times before - LED lighting is a scam. Sure it’s lower power, but the lifetimes they quote (some as much as 50,000 hours) are a total lie. The LED (light emitting diode) itself could probably last forever, that’s not the issue. What almost always fails are the driver electronics - poorly built, low quality. So whatever money you supposedly save in electricity costs instantly evaporates with unit failures and replacement costs.
I have an old school halogen lamp in my pool. It’s going 7 years old. When it finally dies, I’ll be replacing it with another halogen bulb. Color shows at night are just not worth $1,000 in light bulbs to me.
I’ve said it a thousand times before - LED lighting is a scam. Sure it’s lower power, but the lifetimes they quote (some as much as 50,000 hours) are a total lie. The LED (light emitting diode) itself could probably last forever, that’s not the issue. What almost always fails are the driver electronics - poorly built, low quality. So whatever money you supposedly save in electricity costs instantly evaporates with unit failures and replacement costs.
I have an old school halogen lamp in my pool. It’s going 7 years old. When it finally dies, I’ll be replacing it with another halogen bulb. Color shows at night are just not worth $1,000 in light bulbs to me.
I certainly agree with Joyful about the longevity of LED's. The marketing about their long life is just bogus and I don't think there is much recourse when they underperform.....often very badly.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,035
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
This has been my exact experience with my pool light (lights!), and for several of my indoor lights as well. LEDs cost X-times as much and don't seem to be lasting even as long as their incandescent or halogen counterparts did, let alone anywhere near their promise.
IMO, LEDs are getting shoved down our throats by the power companies, who have convinced and/or strong-armed us and the government into believing these lighting "upgrades" are beneficial, when the only real benefit is to their bottom line. Their bottom line is completely unaffected by how many times we have to replace light bulbs!! For them: less electricity = less infrastructure development, maintenance and expense = profit. The consumer gets the bill, as usual. [Feel free to delete that, Mods, if I'm out of bounds. I got it off my chest!]
Remember the days when you walked into a room and flipped on a light switch without stopping because the light came on instantly?! Now, it's either wait a few seconds at the doorway or trip over your shoes! I shouldn't have to put my shoes in the closet if I don't want to!!!!!
