Getting rid of Algae

Yeah, like the others have said, if you really have a CYA level of 95 or higher (probably due to that powdered shock), you will need to drain at least half the water from your pool to get it down to a manageable range of 40-50 ppm, also be aware in reality it may be higher than that measured 95ppm, so even more water may need to be removed, try retesting mixing 1:1 with tap water to see if a 50% water change will put you in the right ballpark.

Ike
 
OK I have been still working on my pool. After 2days I still have some green. 2 days ago I drained about half my pool and refilled. I tested the water and my CYA had come down to 40 and my calcium down to 250! I have been keeping my shock level at 16-17 for almost 2 days. the overnight test held today and my CC is .5 so I am only lacking clear water. IS it slow to clear because I have a sand filter? It has been running 24hrs and we continue to brush the pool daily. I am hoping this weekend we will see clear water again.
Is there anything else I need to do?

Kendal
 
OK Been almost a week since I started using this method and finally yesterday had mostly clear water and have met the other 2 requirements. Now what to do from here on out? Where should I keep my FC level? How often do I need to test? I appreciate all the help here. It has changed the way I will care for my pool from here on out.

Kendal
 
I'm confused...

Are you saying you've met the other two requirements as of your test results today and from an OCLT last night, or are you counting last week's .5ppm CC and OCLT "pass" when you still had green water? (green water makes me question those results actually) You need to pass all three criteria on the same day to count them all as valid. Passing an OCLT last week doesn't mean it passes currently.

Furthermore, if your water is mostly clear... it doesn't necessarily mean it's clear. Clear is a state of "not unclear". Meaning, if you're only mostly clear, it's technically not "unclear". It doesn't have to be crystal clear read a book on the bottom clear... but there should be no question in your mind if it's clear or not. Mostly clear doesn't count.

I'd be hesitant to count your pool as ready to be done shocking from green in a week, especially if you're not passing ALL three criteria. Additionally, as far as your questions for after you're done shocking, all that information is in Pool School and it depends on your CYA level. Personally I use the pool calculator levels for both daily and shocking. They are a little higher than the pool school chart and I like it that way. Keeps me and the pool happy :~}

Testing should be done daily before your nightly dosing till you get a good feel for your daily chlorine consumption. Shortly you'll come to know what your pool uses each day depending on bather load and weather, etc. and won't need to test so frequently. But until that occurs for you, do the testing before you dose at night.

Do you have a complete set of test results to post here for us? Any pictures?
 
Sounds like your getting there with a CYA level of 40, your target FC should be 5 ppm, and never let it get below 3 ppm (until you get the hang of never letting it drop below 3 ppm, you might want to aim for 6 or 7 ppm FC). For now I suggest testing daily (at least for pH and Chlorine, the others test weekly until you are comfortable going longer, maybe 2 or 3 weeks on CYA and CH if you have not added anything to change tem), more if you have a large swim party, storm, etc., once you get comfortable with it, you may be able to extend that out to testing every 2 or 3 days, or just doing the basic color match OTO chlorine test every other test to confirm your above minimums on FC.
 
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