Freezing temps reassurance request & knowledge check

[stshields91]

I have Aqualink with spill-over spa and haven't used the mode that switches between Spa and Pool every half hour. Seems like Rube Goldberg-ish wear and tear to me: a lot of valve and pump switching (mine shuts down while changing modes). Cracking the spa return a bit has worked great even with the pump running 1200 rpm and ~38 gpm. When it's balanced the spill-over stops but the spa remains full. With freeze protect @1800 rpm as already mentioned the spill-over trickles, which is nice. So I can just set this up in November and go back to normal in April. nb: I do winterize spa bubbler pump and deck jets with my little shop compressor.

thanks for input and that's what I'm planning to do as well. Do you also crack the spa suction valve halfway or part of the way?

I'm concerned about my sheer decents as well. When I open the spa return partially the flow out of sheer decents drops to almost nothing as they are not on a seperate pump. so I have to raise my pump RPM to about 3000 or so to keep what I'd consider enough flow for them. I'll have ice build up for sure on my pool where where the decents are but I guess that's the least of my worries.

 

[generessler]

thanks for input and that's what I'm planning to do as well. Do you also crack the spa suction valve halfway or part of the way?

Yeah sorry I said "return" when I meant "drain." Every system will be different. My suction side has a diverter with one branch connected to skimmers+main drains and the other to spa drains. That's the one manually set with just a crack open to the spa drains, mostly on the pool side even though the system is in pool mode. Normally it's either/or depending on Spa or Pool mode.

The Pool mode position of the return diverter is with both spa and pool returns on. So that's fine as is.

 

[stshields91]

Yeah every system will be different. My suction side has a diverter with one branch connected to skimmers+main drains and the other to spa drains. That's the one manually set with just a crack open to the spa drains, mostly on the pool side even though the system is in pool mode. Normally it's either/or depending on Spa or Pool mode.

The Pool mode position of the return diverter is with both spa and pool returns on. So that's fine as is.

sounds like my set up is similiar I think. I have to automated valve that that complete isolates the spa in sap mode and the pool in pool mode with the exception of a fountain that gets water via a manual open valve. If I close said valve the spa receives no water at all in pool mode.

in this config would you partially open both valves manually? In my setup this would draw some suction and send some return water through the spa jets with some water also coming in the fountain return. (I've removed the fountain standpipe BTW but the water still flows.

 

[stshields91]

Feeling much better this evening as I got the equipment needed to isolate and blow out the lines for my sheer decents. So they are "winterized", isolated and removed from freeze protection. Now I don't have to worry about ice building up on them during the cold snap. Also should help reduce the evaporation loss with them not running.

Thanks again for all the help from this crew!

 

[cpachris]

Eeeek! Still running, but lots of ice accumulation. Highs won't get above freezing for another two days. Any advice other than try to knock off the ice?

 

[mas985]

With that setup, I would have drained the water features and shut them off instead of running water through them.

Do you not normally close in winter?

 

[dailygenesis]

• How many leave spa mode in freeze protection vs. opening the spa return valve manually a bit and running off the switch at the valve so the control box doesn't move it?

I'm glad you mention this. I do the latter, but I haven't found many on this forum who agree with me or who do this. But to me, it makes more sense just to partially open the spa drain valve so that water is pulling in from all three suction lines simultaneously. In this configuration with my system, water is flowing through every single pipe, so there is no need to rotate between pool and spa mode. I don't like the idea of rotating between pool and spa mode because this means there are alternating periods of 30 minutes where water is no flowing at all through the pool return or suction lines. I don't like this when temps are very cold.

Of course, this means for me that I can't actually use the built in "freeze protect" in situations like this. I disable the freeze protect and set my timers to run 24/7. Then I manually set the valves where I want them and leave it at that. I only do this when we're looking at a period of 12+ hours below freezing. For short freezes overnight I usually just let freeze protect run as normal.

 

[stshields91]

I'm glad you mention this. I do the latter, but I haven't found many on this forum who agree with me or who do this. But to me, it makes more sense just to partially open the spa drain valve so that water is pulling in from all three suction lines simultaneously. In this configuration with my system, water is flowing through every single pipe, so there is no need to rotate between pool and spa mode. I don't like the idea of rotating between pool and spa mode because this means there are alternating periods of 30 minutes where water is no flowing at all through the pool return or suction lines. I don't like this when temps are very cold.

Of course, this means for me that I can't actually use the built in "freeze protect" in situations like this. I disable the freeze protect and set my timers to run 24/7. Then I manually set the valves where I want them and leave it at that. I only do this when we're looking at a period of 12+ hours below freezing. For short freezes overnight I usually just let freeze protect run as normal.

Thanks for sharing strategy and learning back here! I wanted to share what I finally decided to do and how it's working out so far:

• Decided to isolate and blow out my sheer decent lines with an air compressor and then remove them from feeeze protection. Set the automated valve switch to off and completely closed the path to them. I'm sure not all of the water is flushed but 80%+ is and what's left should be settled in the lowest point of the plumbing under the pool safe from freezing. This aleviated my worry about ice building up on the wall where they flow.
• Spa was not included in freeze protection but I did manually open the return valve enough to get some flow.
• I chose not to partially open suction from the spa as I had pulled the lid on the pump with the valve open to create a bit of space in the line so taking that risk.
• Wrapped the heater and filter in one of these as they are on opposite ends of my pad.
• Carefully placed a heat lamp, a few drop lights and a small space heater on the pad under the tarp.
• Covered the plumbing the best I could with a few old sleeping bags
• Tripled checked that nothing was getting too hot every 30mins until I was comfortable that things were safe.

So far the air temp has hovered around 13/14 F where I love and the temp sensor under the tarp on the concrete pad is reading ~34. As long as I don't loose power, I'm feeling as good as I can.




Thanks again for all the help here!

 

[greggjess]

I also posted a thread but what's the recommendation once equipment is frozen? We have blanketed and got a heater but not sure if it's better to just wait for warmer temps.

 

[JJ_Tex]

I also posted a thread but what's the recommendation once equipment is frozen? We have blanketed and got a heater but not sure if it's better to just wait for warmer temps.

Once it’s already frozen, there isn’t much more to do other than pray and start saving $ for new equipment.

You can still undo all of the plugs and open lids, and maybe even try a hair dryer but the damage is likely already done.

Also make sure you flip the breaker so it doesn’t turn on the equipment and run dry and ruin anything else the ice didn’t get.

 

[greggjess]

Once it’s already frozen, there isn’t much more to do other than pray and start saving $ for new equipment.

You can still undo all of the plugs and open lids, and maybe even try a hair dryer but the damage is likely already done.

Also make sure you flip the breaker so it doesn’t turn on the equipment and run dry and ruin anything else the ice didn’t get.

Breaker off was the first thing we did. Sigh....nothing like thinking you got this and then don't. My only guess is the 1000rpm freeze protection wasn't fast enough.

Skimmer wasn't frozen so other suggested noodles/jugs to at least try to save that.