FNS PLUS FILTER 60 SQR FEET - TOO FREQUENT BACKWASH

[Live4Color]

Our filter is 7 years old and we've never had a problem with it. We get it cleaned every year. However, lately it requires backwashing twice a month. I'm wondering if deposits have built up on the grids or if the grids might have deteriorated. Should I just replace the grids or, given its age, replace the whole assembly? Is it worth soaking the grids in water and muriatic acid if buildup is the issue, or should I just invest the $509 to replace the entire assembly, anticipating that something else might break soon?

I'm a petite woman, and my husband isn't interested in assisting with this. I often rely on techs who don't seem too keen on thoroughly checking or doing the minimum to find the actual problem.

 

[ajw22]

You should first do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test and see if you have some algae that is clogging your filter.

You can have algae even in clear water.

What test kit do you use?

Please post a full set of water chemistry in the format:

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
SALT
WATER TEMP

 

[Live4Color]

You should first do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test and see if you have some algae that is clogging your filter.

You can have algae even in clear water.

What test kit do you use?

Please post a full set of water chemistry in the format:

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
SALT
WATER TEMP

pH: 7.2, Total Alkalinity: 85 ppm, Calcium Hardness: 200 ppm, and Cyanuric Acid (Stabilizer): 30 ppm. Chlorine levels should remain constant in the 1-3 ppm range. Water temp: 64, salt: 3200. Free available chlorine was almost non-existent this summer while the chlorine was high.

 

[Live4Color]

pH: 7.2, Total Alkalinity: 85 ppm, Calcium Hardness, 200 ppm and Cyanuric Acid (Stabilizer): 30 ppm. Chlorine levels should remain constant in the 1-3 ppm range. WATER TEMP 64, SALT 3200 FREE AVAILABLE CHLORINE WAS ALMOST NON EXISTENT THIS SUMMER WHILE THE CHLORINE WAS HIGH.

Test Kit is Taylor K

 

[Newdude]

Frequent filter cycles are almost always a chemistry problem, not a mechanical one. I'd bet your filter is working great, quickly being over run by a nascent algae bloom, whether or not it's visible. It's microscopic and grows exponentially. The last couple of growth cycles are the difference between clear water algae and a full blown swamp. It would also explain why you aren't able to hold chlorine.

If it was a grid issue, the FC wouldn't dip from it. Overnight Chlorine Loss Test as said above.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Tracy, which test kit number is the kit you have? It makes a differnce.
Also, if you ignore listing your results in the order (up/down) as requested it slows the volunteers who bother to answer your posts down in interpreting the results properly. Thanks for understanding.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt if applicable.

Maddie

 

[1poolman1]

Our filter is 7 years old and we've never had a problem with it. We get it cleaned every year. However, lately it requires backwashing twice a month. I'm wondering if deposits have built up on the grids or if the grids might have deteriorated. Should I just replace the grids or, given its age, replace the whole assembly? Is it worth soaking the grids in water and muriatic acid if buildup is the issue, or should I just invest the $509 to replace the entire assembly, anticipating that something else might break soon?

I'm a petite woman, and my husband isn't interested in assisting with this. I often rely on techs who don't seem too keen on thoroughly checking or doing the minimum to find the actual problem.

If the yearly cleaning was a soak in acid before removing any oils you may need to replace the grids. You don't need to replace the whole asembly.