Spring start up and the pump shaft was stuck from winter corrosion. Took off the motor to free it up. Could not get it to budge with the back cap off. Anyway, the pool store told me I’d need all new seals anytime the motor is removed from the pump housing. Is this correct?
Fixed pump shaft corrosion, new seals?
- Thread starter jonmar
- Start date
Yes. New seal should be installed any time the old one is disturbed. They're not that expensive.
Ok so I didn’t cause I wanted to get the thing going. Could you let me know which ones I need to replace and I’ll get them and take it off again. It’s a Hayward Superpump 1HP
There is only one seal, on the shaft. The rest are gaskets and O rings (square in the lid of a Superpump). If you replaced the shaft seal and the pump is working and not leaking anywhere you don't have to worry, replace at your leisure. I always replace a shaft seal if I disturb the impeller by removing it, just insurance.
Just got home after away for a day. Pump is leaking and super hot to touch so getting the seal today. Unless you think it’s already damaged?
Replaced the seals and now the pump after 5 seconds of operation just hums. Any ideas?
A leaking seal allows water to be forced into the front motor bearing, washing out the lubricant. You originally said it was "stuck." Did that mean you couldn't turn the shaft? If so, the bearings were bad. You may have freed them up by forcing the shaft to turn but any time a seal leaks for an extended period of time (as little as a month) the bearings are damaged. Just a matter of time before they completely fail.
If the motor spins freely with no roughness, check the power, or the capacitor, or that the seal was installed correctly, or . . .
Got the pump going. The inverted V timing thing had come off. Pump still leaks and runs awfully hot. Could it be a gasket or an O ring? I only changed the seal.
When I first started it for the year the shaft was stuck but I twisted it a few times and it soins freely.
When I first started it for the year the shaft was stuck but I twisted it a few times and it soins freely.
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Under normal conditions, after they have been running a while a single speed motor will be too hot to keep your hand on, 140-150 degrees.
If it gets hotter than that(you can actually "smell" the heat) the motor is going to fail sooner or later.
If it gets hotter than that(you can actually "smell" the heat) the motor is going to fail sooner or later.
I agree with 1poolman1. Here on the gulf coast, in the heat of summer, with the pump exposed to sunlight, the case of a motor can get to around 185+ degrees. No problem at all. If the internals of the motor get too hot, there's a thermal sensor inside that will cut the motor off.
So how hot is too hot? Or do you just wait for the sensor to shut the pump down? My neighbor has a 2 speed 1 hp pump that hums fairly loudly on Lo and gets quite hot. Can't "smell the heat" as poolman1 says, but can definitely feel it. Running on Hi, the motor case is still quite warm, but no hum, and definitely runs cooler than the Lo setting. Is this normal? He seems to have adequate air flow.
Leak is gone. Changed the gasket between the motor and wet end.
It runs hot. Infrared thermo has the barrel ranging from 180 at the ends to 215 in the middle. Can’t touch it for more than a second.
It runs hot. Infrared thermo has the barrel ranging from 180 at the ends to 215 in the middle. Can’t touch it for more than a second.