First Water Test Results

[bgoz98]

New pool and just completed my first test with the TF-100 Pro Salt kit:

FC 25
PH 8.2
TA 280
CH 300
CYA 30
Salt 4000

Obviously FC is way too high. Just got new kit today, so had been working with Pentair kit. I knew FC was high and noticed the PB left SWG running at 100%, so I lowered it to 60% for a day and retested. Still very high, so have been running it at 20% since yesterday. Was this the right move to help lower (produce less) chlorine or am I way off base? I also think I need to add muriatic acid to lower PH and drop TA. Is this correct? Add the recommended amount from Pool Math all at once or a little at a time? Any and all advice is welcome to this pool newb. Thanks!

 

[mknauss]

What SWCG do you have and how long do you run it? Do not address the pH as that test is invalid when the FC is above 10 ppm.

Turn off the SWCG until you test the FC at 10 ppm or below.

 

[bgoz98]

Pentair Intellichlor IC20. Will turn it off and continue testing. Thank you!

 

[mknauss]

Please fill out your signature.

Your SWCG is very undersized. It will take 20 hours at 100% during the summer to keep up.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

You're showing a relatively high TA. That may be the case, but it may be that your R-0009 bottle is contributing to a testing error. If your kit is new, follow this note from the Extended Test Directions:

• Sometimes a static electric charge can build up on the R-0009 dropper bottle tip, causing the drops to be smaller than usual and making the test read higher than actual. You can prevent this by wiping the tip of the dropper bottle with a damp cloth or tissue before you start and after each drop.

 

[bgoz98]

What SWCG do you have and how long do you run it? Do not address the pH as that test is invalid when the FC is above 10 ppm.

Turn off the SWCG until you test the FC at 10 ppm or below.

Is off the same as holding the "more" button until getting the flashing green LED for Low Output Mode?

 

[mknauss]

I think you can get it to 0 generation by using the LESS button.
I assume you do not have automation?

 

[bgoz98]

I think you can get it to 0 generation by using the LESS button.
I assume you do not have automation?

That's correct. No automation. I will try using the less button. System was just installed last week. Should I go back to the PB and tell them I would like to change from IC20 to IC40? Is there any "official" recommendation from Pentair that they may accept to show it was wrong to begin with?

 

[mknauss]

Should I go back to the PB and tell them I would like to change from IC20 to IC40? Is there any "official" recommendation from Pentair that they may accept to show it was wrong to begin with?

Up to you. TFP recommends the cell be rated a minimum 2X the volume of the pool.
Pentair has no standards along that line.

 

[bgoz98]

Up to you. TFP recommends the cell be rated a minimum 2X the volume of the pool.
Pentair has no standards along that line.

I am going to approach them, but anticipate getting the "we know better" answer. If I must stick with the IC20 for now, does that just mean it will not last as long and will need to be replaced sooner? At that point, I would replace with IC40 for sure, but is it worth it to be out the money in full now if they won't replace it?

 

[mknauss]

The cell will be expended quicker. And you will need to run your pump nearly 24 hours per day in the summer.
When it dies, you buy just the IC40 cell and it all fits and plugs in.

Is your SWCG powered off when the pump is off?

 

[bgoz98]

The cell will be expended quicker. And you will need to run your pump nearly 24 hours per day in the summer.
When it dies, you buy just the IC40 cell and it all fits and plugs in.

Is your SWCG powered off when the pump is off?

That I don't know. Is that something that would (or should) automatically happen? I assume I could test by turning the pump off?

 

[mknauss]

I assume I could test by turning the pump off?

Do that. The power to the SWCG should be completely off.

 

[bgoz98]

Do that. The power to the SWCG should be completely off.

Will try. How long guess it will take to lower FC to <10 with the SWCG off?

 

[mknauss]

With sun shining on the pool, about 3 days this time of year. Maybe less.

 

[bgoz98]

With sun shining on the pool, about 3 days this time of year. Maybe less.

Thank you for all the help! Will continue testing and advise.

 

[bgoz98]

Salt cell was off since yesterday evening, left cover open today, and got some rain today. Just tested and FC is at 10. Should I now test PH or let the FC fall into the desired range? Also, should I leave the salt cell off and cover open tomorrow again or will it fall too much?

 

[MITBeta]

Your FC fell 15ppm in 24 hours?!? That's a lot. Was your water well mixed for both samples? Are you sure about the CYA of 30ppm?

 

[bgoz98]

Your FC fell 15ppm in 24 hours?!? That's a lot. Was your water well mixed for both samples? Are you sure about the CYA of 30ppm?

I agree that I am a bit surprised by the FC fall. I was manually swirling yesterday and then used the smart stir today. Yesterday was my first test, so user error is very possible although I was very careful following the instructions. The one thing about it is that yesterday the FC was very orange in the tube. Today, it was definitely more of a yellow. The CYA test is probably the one I am most uncomfortable with at this point. I know I am following the instructions, but I basically see the black dot until the CYA tube is all the way full. I hold it down at my waist. When I watched the instructional video for the test, the liquid is definitely more milky than what my solution ends up being. Mine is basically clear. Any tips on that one?

 

[MITBeta]

Ok, so you probably have next to no CYA and some degree of user error. Keep testing.

I would run a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight just to make sure everything looks good.

Then add 10ppm worth of CYA using the sock method. Turn the SWG back on at 50% to start and then test FC daily, adjusting the SWG output as necessary until you get the feel of things. You'll need more runtime and/or % as the weather gets hotter and sunnier.

Test pH when FC is under 10 and everything else when you can. Most things will only need to be tested weekly or monthly. You'll get a sense for how quickly things change.