First Time SWG Decision

[Darby76x]

Looking for advice for new SWG for 24’ above ground. (~14,000 Gallons). Initially attracted to Hayward AquaTrol (W3AQ-TROL-RJ-TL), but have a few questions/concerns:

1. As the RJ model mounts directly up to the return jet, what is the consequence of having a split outlet prior to this to feed a second jet or water feature? Halving the flow, but would there still be sufficient flow running single speed 1HP pump? Would it require running pump longer to achieve desired levels?

2. Control cable is only 15’, but equipment is 20’ away. I could cut and splice an extension, but this likely voids the warranty.

3. I’ve considered the non-RJ model, but was looking to avoid cost, complexity and potential issues introduced with a flow sensor. Is this still a better way to go though to solve #1 and #2?

Thanks,

Darby

14K gal, AG vinyl, 1HP Splapool pump (or upgraded VS), 17” Jacuzzi 25 gpm sand filter, TBD SWG

 

[wireform]

It would make more sense to place the cell further back and split afterwards. Not sure what you're trying to accomplish by splitting it off before and having only one return chlorinated.

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Here's an illustration from the RJ-Series manual if it helps.

 

[jamesey]

would there still be sufficient flow running single speed 1HP pump?

You shouldn't have issues with flow on a single speed.

Would it require running pump longer to achieve desired levels?

It's not required. It all comes down to personal preference. You can either:
1. Run the pump for longer and reduce the output on your SWG. The downside of doing this is obviously the increased energy consumption, but you get more consistent FC readings. This is why pairing with a VSP is highly recommended here since you're able to run much longer (or 24/7) at a low output % and generate a little bit of chlorine all day and night while also benefiting from the energy savings
2. Keep your pump schedule as-is. Assuming it's running only a few hours a day, you'll have to increase the output % on your SWG. Your FC ranges will have peaks and valleys as you are generating all your chlorine in that given timeframe.

Control cable is only 15’, but equipment is 20’ away. I could cut and splice an extension, but this likely voids the warranty.

Is there a specific reason why you want your control module that far away from your equipment? Maybe I'm not understanding the question

Fill out your signature with your equipment that way it's easier for everyone to help you.

 

[mac4lyfe]

Should the Salt Cell be before the heater? I've read where higher temperatures from the heater could degrade the cell. Is that true?

 

[Jimrahbe]

I've read where higher temperatures from the heater could degrade the cell.

Mac,

Where did you read that pack of lies..

The cell is always installed right before the Return valve as shown in post #3 by Pat.

It is true that you don't want the cell right after the heater.. You want some room between the heater and the cell.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Darby76x]

It would make more sense to place the cell further back and split afterwards. Not sure what you're trying to accomplish by splitting it off before and having only one return chlorinated.

Thanks for the feedback. The consideration was if I could opt for the non-flow sensor SWG model which requires mounting directly to the return jet. I could simply stick with a single return jet and add a valve to enable a part-time water feature like this:

 

[Darby76x]

You shouldn't have issues with flow on a single speed.


It's not required. It all comes down to personal preference. You can either:
1. Run the pump for longer and reduce the output on your SWG. The downside of doing this is obviously the increased energy consumption, but you get more consistent FC readings. This is why pairing with a VSP is highly recommended here since you're able to run much longer (or 24/7) at a low output % and generate a little bit of chlorine all day and night while also benefiting from the energy savings
2. Keep your pump schedule as-is. Assuming it's running only a few hours a day, you'll have to increase the output % on your SWG. Your FC ranges will have peaks and valleys as you are generating all your chlorine in that given timeframe.


Is there a specific reason why you want your control module that far away from your equipment? Maybe I'm not understanding the question

Fill out your signature with your equipment that way it's easier for everyone to help you.

Thanks, you’ve got me reconsidering investing in a VSP to keep even flow through SWG. As to the distance from the pool, I need to keep enough egress around back, so co-locating equipment with an existing obstacle.

 

[mac4lyfe]

Mac,

Where did you read that pack of lies..

The cell is always installed right before the Return valve as shown in post #3 by Pat.

It is true that you don't want the cell right after the heater.. You want some room between the heater and the cell.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Hey Jim,
I’ve seen many places say that pool temperature impacts cell life. Here’s an exact quote from a generic cell company… “the water temperature and water chemistry play an important role in determining cell life”. But I also saw a study that said the cell could degrade faster if it was directly behind the heater because of higher temps. I never really thought about but it kinda makes sense that the temperature exiting a heater is probably significantly higher than the inlet and maybe that could degrade the cell faster?..

 

[Dirk]

the temperature exiting a heater is probably significantly higher than the inlet

It shouldn't be...

The following is true of a pool solar heating system, I believe it to be true for any pool heating system:

A properly configured pool heating system has sufficient flow through the heater to only allow it to heat the water a few degrees. Otherwise, your flow is too low and the water would be too hot. It's not intuitive, but heating a pool is more efficient by pumping a lot of slightly warmer water rather than pumping a little very hot water (that's based on the physics of thermodynamics, or something of the sort).

My heater runs at 2200 GPM (gallons per minute), and the water coming out of the return is just barely perceptively warmer than the pool water.

Point being, if your heated water is more than three or four degrees hotter than the pool, your heating is inefficient. So if it's correctly setup, your SWG would be subjected to water that is only slightly warmer when the heater is on than when it is off.

When you run your heater, and put your hand in the pool in front of a return, what do you feel?

 

[wireform]

I understand the quote but honestly I've never seen a temperature problem due to it being after the heater, in fact they're all after the heater except when there's no heater to come before it.

 

[Bob Jakob]

You don't want the "concentrated" chlorine and other byproducts of cell to go through heater for corrosion reasons.

 

[mac4lyfe]

It shouldn't be...

The following is true of a pool solar heating system, I believe it to be true for any pool heating system:

A properly configured pool heating system has sufficient flow through the heater to only allow it to heat the water a few degrees. Otherwise, your flow is too low and the water would be too hot. It's not intuitive, but heating a pool is more efficient by pumping a lot of slightly warmer water rather than pumping a little very hot water (that's based on the physics of thermodynamics, or something of the sort).

My heater runs at 2200 GPM (gallons per minute), and the water coming out of the return is just barely perceptively warmer than the pool water.

Point being, if your heated water is more than three or four degrees hotter than the pool, your heating is inefficient. So if it's correctly setup, your SWG would be subjected to water that is only slightly warmer when the heater is on than when it is off.

When you run your heater, and put your hand in the pool in front of a return, what do you feel?

That makes more sense. The flowrate is so high that the temperature difference has to be pretty low. Thanks much.

 

[mac4lyfe]

You don't want the "concentrated" chlorine and other byproducts of cell to go through heater for corrosion reasons.

This makes more sense than any possible temperature difference. Thanks