After 3 years of being a pool owner (and casually checking out the TFP forums), finally ‘bought in’ and the TF 100 kit is coming in the mail today. Been battling a green pool for 3-4 weeks and thought I had turned the corner a week ago after replacing the sand in my filter, but we are back to a lime green mess. Looking forward to finally getting a handle on this thing for the long term, instead of trying to do it myself but ultimately relying on the pool store which has really been a trial and error session (and burning a hole in my wallet as well).
First Time, Long Time
- Thread starter Ryans19
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 49,048
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Welcome to TFP! 
be sure to update your signature with all of your pool and equipment info. Include your test kit and also if you are on a well. We're here to help.
www.troublefreepool.com
be sure to update your signature with all of your pool and equipment info. Include your test kit and also if you are on a well. We're here to help.
Pool Care Basics Archives
Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!
www.troublefreepool.com
Thanks for the quick post and heads up. Updated my pool specs accordingly. Appreciate the help in advance!
- Jun 22, 2014
- 49,048
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Good job on the testing. So I was curious about the water color, but it doesn't appear to be too wacky for a well that presumably has iron. But pics can be deceiving. So here's what I would recommend since your numbers above look relatively good. If you are able, I would do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test this evening/tomorrow morning. Let's compare two FC readings from nighttime (dark) to the morning (still dark) if you can. Make sure the SWG is off at least 30 minutes before grabbing your nighttime water sample. If you pass the OCLT, we can focus on iron which may be tainting the water color. If you fail the OCLT, then we know you still have some algae and need to do the SLAM Process. Let us know how it goes.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 49,048
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Bummer, but yes. Good you caught it. So be sure to follow the SLAM Process page closely. Use liquid chlorine (or regular bleach) to increase and maintain your FC level. Be sure to lower the pH to about 7.2 first if not there already. Your CYA was 70, so the FC SLAM level would be 28. Once you get it there with a few gallons of chlorine, hopefully it will hold fairly closes to where you only need to add x-amount a couple times a day to maintain that elevated FC level. If you have any questions let us know. Good luck!
- Jun 22, 2014
- 49,048
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Also, because you are on a well and we suspect you have a high iron content, now would be a good time to try and filter iron out with polyfill. The elevated FC "should" aggravate the iron causing it to precipitate out more for better filtering. You can place polyfill in the skimmer, or do like many others and run the water though a bucket full of polyfill. Lots of examples on YouTube. Kind of taking care of two birds with one stone.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 49,048
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
We typically recommend owners leaving the SWG off since it's not designed to produce that much FC. Liquid pool chlorine (usually 10 - 12% strength), found at places like Walmart, Home Depot, etc, is your primary weapon. If you can't find chlorine, regular bleach (same thing just lower strength) can be used. But with laundry bleach, be sure it's regular/plain. Don't use Clorox brand nor anything that says splashless or scented. If you do leave the SWG on because you might be away all day, just leave it at your normal setting. Don't try to run it on boost or anything high. You want to maintain the FC of 28 and not go crazy high either.
1 more question….for now. Lowering the PH, should I add the muriatic acid and wait a bit before I start with the chlorine?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 49,048
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Lower the pH with muriatic acid first and let it mix for about 30-45 minutes so you can re-test to confirm you got close to 7.2. Then go ahead and increase the FC level and you won't have to test pH again until after the SLAM.
Began SLAM this morning at 11am and raised the FC to 32 (higher than I was going for….which was 28) and have checked it roughly every 2 hrs and not getting much reduction in the FC. Pool seems to be, at best same or even a little worse than it was this morning. Realize this wasn’t the best part of the day to begin the process but I was eager to get going on this. Do I just need to be patient and stay the course?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 49,048
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Yes, but also continue to do al the chores on the SLAM page. That's very important. Watch your filter pressure as well so you know when it's time to clean it. Inspect thoroughly for any places where algae can hide.
Hello - little over a week since I started the SLAM process last Tuesday. Pool turned to a beautiful blue color last Fri/Sat but was still cloudy. Gained some clarity since then but the past couple days have not seen much improvement. Can see bottom of shallow end easily (3’) but unable to see deep end (8’). Not losing much/if any chlorine overnight. Here are my stats from this morning:
FC 29
CC .5
PH 7.8
Cal 1,000 (seems very high..should retest)
TA 200
CYA 60
Have not added anything post test. Thinking of adding some muratic acid. Thoughts on this? Just doesn’t seem like chlorine is doing much right now (not vacuuming much up at end of day either). Wondering if dropping the TA will help clear things up.
FC 29
CC .5
PH 7.8
Cal 1,000 (seems very high..should retest)
TA 200
CYA 60
Have not added anything post test. Thinking of adding some muratic acid. Thoughts on this? Just doesn’t seem like chlorine is doing much right now (not vacuuming much up at end of day either). Wondering if dropping the TA will help clear things up.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 49,048
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
We know the pH isn't really reliable while your FC is at SLAM level, so I wouldn't rush to adjust the pH unless you decide to let the FC fall at some point. I would confirm that Ch tough because it's high. If verified, you'll need to keep the pH lower to compensate and avoid scale over time. Scale doesn't form immediately, but just be aware of it. As for the residual cloudiness, you must be getting close. This is the critical stage and can be very frustrating, either because the chlorine needs more time or something was overlooked. So here are some ideas:
- Be 100% sure all areas have been opened, inspected, and scrubbed. Things like behind a light (niche), steps, ladders, umbrella sleeves, autofills, skimmer weir doors, under drain covers, even folds in a liner.
- Has your sand been deep cleaned recently? Filtration "might" be a limiting factor.
- If everything has been completed as noted above, and you pass the OLCT, then you might be a candidate for a little DE in the sand to help with filtration.
- Be 100% sure all areas have been opened, inspected, and scrubbed. Things like behind a light (niche), steps, ladders, umbrella sleeves, autofills, skimmer weir doors, under drain covers, even folds in a liner.
- Has your sand been deep cleaned recently? Filtration "might" be a limiting factor.
- If everything has been completed as noted above, and you pass the OLCT, then you might be a candidate for a little DE in the sand to help with filtration.
Thanks for the reply and advice. I changed the filter sand mid July and making sure to backwash during the SLAM process as needed. I’ll make sure to stay on top of brushing all hidden areas and look into the DE to help filtration.
