First Test Today - What Now

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njc0026

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Jun 12, 2016
7
Dallas, TX
Hi,

Using TF-100, pool finished August 2016, builder maintained thru November 2016. Nothing has been done with regards to chemistry since.

First results are as follows:

FC - 0
CC - 0
pH - 8.2
TA - 150
CH - 1,475
CYA - 100

I plugged the above into the PoolMath tool and the result is to drain the water...hoping I just did some of the tests wrong?
 
njc0026 said:
Hi,

Using TF-100, pool finished August 2016, builder maintained thru November 2016. Nothing has been done with regards to chemistry since.

First results are as follows:

FC - 0
CC - 0
pH - 8.2
TA - 150
CH - 1,475
CYA - 100

I plugged the above into the PoolMath tool and the result is to drain the water...hoping I just did some of the tests wrong?
Click to expand...
Welcome to the forum.

Before we worry about anything else, you better get some chlorine in there fast, and lower that pH.

Unfortunately the very high CYA will be the biggest issue. With a CYA result greater that 90ppm it is recommended to do an extended test to get a better reading.

Extended CYA test

While high levels of CH can be dealt with, high CYA will require a water exchange. High CYA is usually the result of using tablets and granular chlorine/shock.

It would be very wise to get (and maintain) at least 10-15ppm of FC in that pool before algae gets a hold. With a CYA of 100ppm, it would require 40ppm of FC be held throughout a SLAM if algae does start to bloom.

Are you saying that there has been no chlorine added since November? Is there a SWG?
 
Thank goodness you have a TF-100. :goodjob: Dom's right on many accounts. Overall concerning, besides the comment about nothing done to chemistry since Nov '16, is what are you using for chemistry/products now? While TX water can be fairly hard in some areas, to shoot-up that high so quickly in a new pool makes me wonder if you have added any pool store products (bags of shock, tabs, etc) to the pool. Also, do you have a magnetic "Speedstir"? It can make a big difference in the CH reading because it spins and mixes the reagents so well while you observe for color change. I agree with Dom, get some bleach in there ASAP and shortly afterwards, muriatic acid. You never want that pH over 7.8 or you'll start to see scale forming soon. Keep us posted and let us know if you have any more questions. The readers will help you through this.
 
In the future for chlorine, shop around for the best price that works for you. Bleach = chlorine. I like HEB's "Bravo" or Wal-Mart's "Great Value" regular bleach at $2.94 per gallon. Once in a while I'll find a deal somewhere else, and you may have some similar deals in the DFW area.
 
The price wasn't too bad, maybe $3.50/gallon buts it's 128oz and 10%.

I put in 2 jugs. Couldn't really tell on poolmath how much to add.

Any tips on estimating pool gallons??The builder put 30k in their specs but I'm not sure that's accurate. Pool is free form 40 x 34 average depth of 6 ft. 129 perimeter, not including spa. I don't think it's closer to 40k gallons based on water added last August.
 
One thing many of us have done ..... we load a pool capacity into the Poolmath calculator (i.e. 30,000). From there, we attempt to adjust levels as needed (i.e. FC, pH, etc). If we re-test 30 - 60 min later and we didn't reach our target, or over-shot our target, then we can adjust that pool volume up or down to try and make it more accurate. As new pool owners, there's a learning curve with the test kit. But once you get it down, you'll start to se a pattern with chemical testing and additions.

For example: In Poolmath on the FC row, you'll enter your current (Now) value and your target (Goal). Say you tested an FC of 4 and you want to get to 8. Across on the FC row, make sure to manually enter the correct bleach percentage (i.e. 6, 8.25, 10, 12). Then Poolmath will tell you how much bleach to add. If you poured-in bleach and ended-up with a new FC of 10, then your pool volume was probably too high which is why the FC over-shot your goal.

Also at the bottom of the calculator where it says "Suggested Goal Levels", make sure to update those two drop-down items.
Hope that helps.
 
Wow. Big differences in your results this time. Looks better, especially the CYA. Yes, CH is elevated for sure, and the only way to lower it is by water exchange. At least your CYA is somewhat manageable now. An elevated CH can still be off-set by lowering TA and pH which together will help to counter-balance that high CH. If exchanging some water is something you're comfortable with, you can do it, but you might also test the other theory on the Poolmath calculator. Enter your latest test numbers on the calculator and look on the "CSI" row which will tell you the potential for scale. Then lower TA (i.e. 50) and pH (i.e. 7.4) to see what effect it has on that CSI. It might buy you some time.

On another note, your FC and CC are both elevated. I wasn't sure why the FC was elevated, or if that because of the pool volume learning curve and/or overdosing. But a CC over 0.5 and we get concerned. You might want to perform an overnight chlorine loss test (OCLT) to ensure there are no algae/organic issues going on. If you pass the OCLT, then you can let the FC fall on its own to around the 8 range. Hope that helps.
 

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Thanks so much for your help.

My guess is the FC is high due to a slight overdosing. On the CC, I couldn't really tell so if it changed colors or not, so I just assumed I saw a slight tint in the water and put down 1.

With regards to the CYA, I think the big difference is probably getting the hang of that test.

FC and PH obviously impacted by the chlorine and acid added yesterday.

I'll test your suggestion on the CH. My concern with draining and refilling is the water in my area is extremely hard and full of calcium.
 
FC and PH obviously impacted by the chlorine and acid added yesterday.
Click to expand...
Oh yes .. you reminded me! The elevated FC (over 10) does cause pH to read high, so keep that in mind. Your pH is probably a bit lower.

My local water is a bit hard as well. To help, I plumbed a dedicated spigot from my water softener for daily top-offs so that I'm not adding to an already elevated CH. It helped, along with the occasional heavy rains where I could exchange water from Mother Nature. :)
 
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