Hopefully the self contained robot cleaner is removing the bulk of it. I'll manually vac as well and do a backwash after I'm done slamming.
First SLAM (woohoo!)
- Thread starter pinguy
- Start date
Passed slam this morning. Still a ton of calcium precipitate despite vacuuming. I think it's just going to take a lot of MA.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,440
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Is the filter capturing it? Seems a bit unusual for you to have this much calcium carbonate. Did you close the pool last fall?
For closing I did the chemicals and just had a company come to blow the lines out and clean filter. I'd imagine with the pH still being high the calcium would continue to precipate? I'll be able to test pH accurately here soon, but I've been adding a gallon of MA in the meantime.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,854
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
SLAM is done, water looks perfect, I just need to get this pH and Calcium in check
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,854
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Fantastic! Sounds like you have it from here. Let us know if you still have any other questions.
I didn't follow my own advice and this is exactly what happened. I don't think the PH dilution test during slammed worked. Once the FC level came down, my PH was super low, well under 6.8 (completely yellow). TA is a big fat 0 (solution turned red immediately).
Worse even, I'm still getting calcium precipitate despite the low PH, which is why I thought the MA additions were having much of an impact.
I just added 15lbs soda ash (all the store had). Hopefully that shows some change and I'll grab more somewhere else.
I'll post a full set of test results shortly. I've been away and haven't had any time to properly take care of this issue, which is part of the problem.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,440
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Sorry to hear that. Yeah, the dilution trick only works when one of the solutions (the pool water) has high enough TA to resist pH changes from the distilled water. If you crashed your TA with acid additions then all bets are off.
Definitely get the soda ash into the water. So you have Taylor acid/base demand reagents to check how far off you are? They are useful to have when your pH is outside the range of the pH test.
Definitely get the soda ash into the water. So you have Taylor acid/base demand reagents to check how far off you are? They are useful to have when your pH is outside the range of the pH test.
If you can bypass your heater you should do it now. Yes, get the PH up to 7.2 asap. There are several chemicals you can use, shown here, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
I have some borax and baking soda that I'll add as well. Can't bypass heater.
Looks like that Soda ash did the trick quickly with the TA being so low. I took a sample from the opposite end of where I added, 30 mins later, and PH was up to 7.2.
I have to run for a meeting, but I'll check PH again, along with the TA this evening.
I have to run for a meeting, but I'll check PH again, along with the TA this evening.
Hello everyone, I am opening my pool tomorrow. I'm new to this site but slam means slam it with everyone correct? I haven't tested water but have replaced a skimmer and the water was crystal but I am here to try a new method and the pucks have retired
It won't be damaged in a couple of days. It won't be damaged at all if it has a titanium heat exchanger. But, if it has a copper heat exchanger low ph (below 7.0) can dissolve copper into your water. Copper can tint the water green, turn hair green, stain the pool and generally cause a lot of trouble.
I have the copper test so I can find out. It sounds like it needs to be a constant thing to do a lot of damage.