First pool opening - Questions and validation

H2Obsessed

New member
Apr 23, 2024
2
Montreal, Canada
Pool Size
15700
Surface
Vinyl
Hello eveyone,
New pool owner here and I have a few questions and information I would like to validate. Sorry for the long post...

I will open the pool next week when we move in and its a new house that we bought so I have no information on the previous conditions of the water. I have studied this forum the best I can and think Im ready to start my journey !

Its an old 59,500L (estimate for now) inground pool in Canada (Cold snowing winters).
The pool was never covered when winterized and Its really green at the moment.

I will apply the SLAM process the best I can but first here are the results for my water. These where done at a local pool store ( I know haha ) but at least they use the spindisk technique. Its the best I can do for now as I'm in Canada and cant afford a 350$ K-2006 or TF-100 for now as I have other priorities with the new house purchase and Im just getting started, maybe next year ! I also live 2 minutes away from the pool store and the tests are free. ( I wont be spending most of my money there either :sneaky:)

FC: 0
CC: 0
TA: 10
PH: 8.6
CYA:0
CH:58

We have really soft water in our area to start with and my CH is low so I will be using Calcium Hypochlorite (HTH granules 70%) to begin with and might switch to sodium hypochlorite (12% liquid) later on.

So first thing I noticed is the CYA at 0 wich is odd to me as it shouldn't just dissappear from the water and I saw a few leftover "pucks" that contain stabilizer in the clorinator from the previous owner. Also I got results at anoter pool store that use's strips method that is then read with a machine and CYA was also at 0. My Aquacheck Silver strips also show 0.

#1.How could the CYA be at 0 ?
I know snow and rain could dilute it but 0 seems odd. Does that mean I have ammonia in the water or it could happen otherwise ? What is the difference between phosphate and ammonia ? (the spindisk test reveled 0PPM of phosphate but ammonia was not tested)

This is my plan for now, let me know what you think.

Since the PH is high and from what I understand Chlorine wont be able to work properly I will fix this first.

#2.Should I bring my PH lower than the recommended 7.5 so that the chlorine will be more efficient and when done with the slam bring it back to 7.5 or should I just go for 7.5 to start with.

#3.Should I start fixing the TA first or PH ? Im thinking I should get the TA fixed first so it will be easier to maintain a stable PH.

I would then start by adding sodium bicarbonate to bring the TA to an acceptable range (75-80) then 1 hour later use muriatic acid to lower the PH. From what I understand the Muriatic Acid wont lower my TA by much but should fix the PH.

By then the TA and PH would be good to go and I could start the Slam process at a "low" FC level of 10 at night because I have no CYA at all. Then check the FC every hour or so and try to
Keep it in this range until the 3 criterias are met.

To finish off after the SLAM I could add a little bit of cyanuric Acid to bring the CYA up and stabilize my FC.

Anything else I'm missing ? Any suggestions ? Thank you very much for taking the time to read this long post and for helping me out :)
 
Welcome to TFP and congrats on the home purchase.

Where did you get the TA and pH results above from? I believe it's nearly impossible to have a pH that high with a TA that low.

It's going to be really difficult to manage your way out of the situation you're in without quality testing.
 
Welcome to TFP and congrats on the home purchase.

Where did you get the TA and pH results above from? I believe it's nearly impossible to have a pH that high with a TA that low.

It's going to be really difficult to manage your way out of the situation you're in without quality testing.
Thank you ! : ) It was at the pool store that use's the Spindisk method. I also used the Aquachek Silver strips and got the same results.