Finally got the new pool open yesterday, now jets/vacuum aren't working!

[pbc]

So had my training on my pool equipment yesterday, and after the guy left I covered the pool and didn't use it until this morning. Opened it up, noticed that the water turned a slight tinge of green.

Also noticed debris at the bottom, so thought I'd vacuum. Hooked up the vacuum, nothing seemed to be sucking up. Then increased the speed on my Hayward VS Pump, still nothing. Then noticed the jets weren't pushing water.

Turned the pump off, checked the filter basket, dumped out a bit of debris (there was water in the chamber as well). Started it back up, but while it's making a noise, it doesn't seem to actually be pushing water through the system?

Anything I can check?

Will have to check the chemistry of the pool, the PPM is 3100 for salt (guy said should be around 3200) so that seems okay. Not sure if I'll need acid or baking powder...hmmm...so much new stuff to learn.

 

[ajw22]

Salt test accuracy is +/- 500 ppm. 3100 vs 3200 salt makes no difference.

Post a complete set of test results. Dont start chasing small variations. Just keep it within target ranges.

Post pics of your equipment pad and valves.

Complete your signature describing your pool. You have automation?

 

[pbc]

Sig should be posted now. Pics of equipment here (apologies, cabana still being completed so quite dirty). For some reason I now can't get into my diagnostics menu item either. Need to get a more advanced kit to check chemistry levels, almost impossible to see the Chlorine levels on the basic kit. I'd guess it is ranging around the 2.5 to 3.5 mark. PH level is way too high, around the 8.2 or 7.8 colour.

Going to get the water checked nearby when the pool supply store near me opens.


...and thank you for the quick reply btw!

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View attachment 83815View attachment 83816

 

[Jimrahbe]

pb,

I suspect that you just have a valve in an incorrect position, but it could be many things.. You need to tell us more.

A pic of your equipment pad would be very helpful as Allen pointed out.

Do you have a vacuum port in the side of your pool wall or are you putting your vacuum into the skimmer?

I assume by "jets" you mean where the water returns to the pool through the pool return lines (Eyeballs)??

Does everything work ok when you are not trying to vacuum?

Thanks,

Jim R.

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pb,

That is a nice clean automation install... But what we need to see are all the valves and plumbing where the pumps and filter are located..

 

[pbc]

pb,

I suspect that you just have a valve in an incorrect position, but it could be many things.. You need to tell us more.

A pic of your equipment pad would be very helpful as Allen pointed out.

Do you have a vacuum port in the side of your pool wall or are you putting your vacuum into the skimmer?

I assume by "jets" you mean where the water returns to the pool through the pool return lines (Eyeballs)??

Does everything work ok when you are not trying to vacuum?

Thanks,

Jim R.

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pb,

That is a nice clean automation install... But what we need to see are all the valves and plumbing where the pumps and filter are located..

Ah, now I see what you mean about the picture. Will post when I get back.

However, what would cause a valve to be in the wrong position if it was working fine yesterday and I didn't touch it again til this morning. Maybe it's automated and I hit something?

At Costco. Wondering.. Should I buy any Elite Bromine and HTH Shock treatment and HTH max sanitize while I'm here?

Pool guy reccod regular baking soda.. Though I can't recall if it replaced any of the above 3.

 

[ajw22]

At Costco. Wondering.. Should I buy any Elite Bromine and HTH Shock treatment and HTH max sanitize while I'm here?

Pool guy reccod regular baking soda.. Though I can't recall if it replaced any of the above 3.

No, no and no!

With a SWG all you need is MA to lower your PH. You never need shock products the TFP way.

Post a good set of test results before you begin buying or adding chemicals other than MA to lower your PH.

 

[pbc]

So my pool guy ended up dropping by, unfortunately while I was away. He said the lid on the VS pump was put on incorrectly which was causing the water to not flow through the system.

He also dropped some muriatic acid into the pool and some sort of shock powder, and it was clear by the time I got home 15 minutes later. Said it was fine to buy HTH Shock but that used a different kind.

I grabbed some water and took it to a local pool supply shop to test. They said I needed to put in Stabilizer which was why the water wasn't maintaining cholorination, but otherwise levels were good.

Bought a more advanced kit as well.

Thanks for the help, I'm sure there will be many more dumb questions from here on in!

Importantly, kids had a blast in the pool today.

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No, no and no!

With a SWG all you need is MA to lower your PH. You never need shock products the TFP way.

Post a good set of test results before you begin buying or adding chemicals other than MA to lower your PH.

The "TFP" way?

Also, is MA muriatic acid?

 

[mknauss]

Sadly, any test kit you got at a Pool Store is inadequate.

Pool School - Test Kits Compared

 

[pbc]

No, no and no!

With a SWG all you need is MA to lower your PH. You never need shock products the TFP way.

Post a good set of test results before you begin buying or adding chemicals other than MA to lower your PH.

The "TFP" way? Oh, ha, the Trouble Free Pool way. Got it.

Also, is MA muriatic acid?

 

[mknauss]

Pool School - What is TFPC?

 

[ajw22]

Also, is MA muriatic acid?

Yes. Stock up on Muratic Acid. With new plaster and a SWG you will need to need to check your PH every few days and likely add MA to lower it. Add MA when it gets to 7.8 to lower it to 7.4.

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They said I needed to put in Stabilizer which was why the water wasn't maintaining cholorination, but otherwise levels were good.

Please review Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

 

[kimkats]

Here is another helpful tool for you as well. It will do all of the math for adding chemicals: Pool Math It is an app TFP just had made in time for this summer!

 

[pbc]

Awesome, thanks guys. Is there a recommended test kit? I have one with a bunch of bottles that you drop into water and try to figure out what shade of colour the water is. Anything that is more reliable for measurements?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Awesome, thanks guys. Is there a recommended test kit? I have one with a bunch of bottles that you drop into water and try to figure out what shade of colour the water is. Anything that is more reliable for measurements?

pbc,

Yes... We all use the TF-100 or the Taylor K-206C (and yes, the 'C' is important..) You can get the TF-100 at http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjZn-u3z8XcAhUP26wKHf-ZBtYQFjAAegQIBhAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Ftftestkits.net%2F&usg=AOvVaw0xwR3CXCu9pEBcZtcWtJv8

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ajw22]

Awesome, thanks guys. Is there a recommended test kit? I have one with a bunch of bottles that you drop into water and try to figure out what shade of colour the water is. Anything that is more reliable for measurements?

TF-100 Test Kit or Taylor K-2006-C. You must have the FAS/DPD chlorine test, which these kits have, to follow the TFPC methods and measure FC levels above 5 - 10.

 

[pbc]

Thanks, will try to locate someone in Canada that has either.

 

[mknauss]

Thanks, will try to locate someone in Canada that has either.

Lowry and Associates has sole supplier status for Taylor reagents.

Were in Canada is GTA?

If you are close to a US border town, you can order a TF100 and have it shipped to a mail drop in the US town. Then drive over the border and pick up the kit.

 

[pbc]

Lowry and Associates has sole supplier status for Taylor reagents.

Were in Canada is GTA?

If you are close to a US border town, you can order a TF100 and have it shipped to a mail drop in the US town. Then drive over the border and pick up the kit.

Toronto (Greater Toronto Area)

 

[mknauss]

Toronto (Greater Toronto Area)

Great. Please change your Location to Toronto, Canada

Thanks