Fiberglass surface is rough

[aceniza]

Hey all.... just got done SLAM'ing my pool after I discovered the pump hadn't been running for an unknown amount of time. There was probably 1-2" of dirt, leaves, algae and solar cover shreds on the bottom.
With work and life, it took me 1 month, a couple drains, and 3,495 filter cleanings.

If I added everything correctly, the only thing out of line is my total alkalinity (140 with a 60-80 target).
Got a dolphin plus something or another and it's working really well, we'll see how many years I get out of it.

I was scrubbing the scum line yesterday, which is normally a walk in the park with a Magic Eraser. Besides being a little tougher, and it using the whole eraser (normally I do it once a year and use maybe 1/3 of it), I noticed my pool is ROUGH.

What is causing this, and how can I get rid of it? It honestly feels like I need to take a scotch-brite drill attachment to it.

 

[mknauss]

Likely scale. Can you scrape some of it off and make a small pile. Then put a drop of acid on it. If it fizzes, it is scale.

 

[aceniza]

Likely scale. Can you scrape some of it off and make a small pile. Then put a drop of acid on it. If it fizzes, it is scale.

i'll give that a try. It's all under the waterline, and with our recent storm, I'm running about 3-4" high. Let me see what I can do.

IF that's the case - which sounds like it's common with elevated PH, what's the treatment?
I JUST dumped 37lbs of calcium chloride in yesterday, not sure if that affects it or not.

 

[mknauss]

The calcium chloride will not help. Why did you need to do that with a fiberglass pool? What is was your CH level? How do you test your pool water chemistry?

 

[duraleigh]

+1 what mknauss said.

 

[aceniza]

The calcium chloride will not help. Why did you need to do that with a fiberglass pool? What is was your CH level? How do you test your pool water chemistry?

CH was 170 and the calculator advised to add 37lbs to bring it to the 450 range. I am using the K-2006c

 

[mknauss]

Well. Whats done is done.
To remove the scale, the best way is to drive your CSI to at or below -0.6. That will be difficult with that elevated CH. There was no need to raise the CH to that level.

Are you familiar with CSI?

 

[aceniza]

Well. Whats done is done.
To remove the scale, the best way is to drive your CSI to at or below -0.6. That will be difficult with that elevated CH. There was no need to raise the CH to that level.

Are you familiar with CSI?

the calcium saturation index? Not a lot, but I can google it.
I set all my target levels to what is recommended here

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

Are these no longer acceptable? If so, I need to update my pool calculator app.

 

[mknauss]

Enable Tracking CSI in Poolmath. See what you need to get your pH and TA down to so you can get a negative CSI.

Those levels are correct. But do not use them blindly. There are many unique circumstances for each pool. The fiberglass pool technically needs minimal CH. But you might have water line tile with cement based grout, if so, then a CH of 250 (the minimum shown) is good to have. Most heaters state they need some CH.

So the pH, TA, and CH ranges in the chart are to maintain an acceptable CSI. To cover all the bases. Sadly, your situation, with scale in your pool, called for more thought before adding calcium. I suspect some of your calcium in the water from before (as you do not Share Poolmath, do you have what your CH was before the scale issue?), was plated out as calcium due to your water conditions, likely high pH and TA, and water temperature caused the scale.

 

[aceniza]

Enable Tracking CSI in Poolmath. See what you need to get your pH and TA down to so you can get a negative CSI.

Those levels are correct. But do not use them blindly. There are many unique circumstances for each pool. The fiberglass pool technically needs minimal CH. But you might have water line tile with cement based grout, if so, then a CH of 250 (the minimum shown) is good to have. Most heaters state they need some CH.

So the pH, TA, and CH ranges in the chart are to maintain an acceptable CSI. To cover all the bases. Sadly, your situation, with scale in your pool, called for more thought before adding calcium. I suspect some of your calcium in the water from before (as you do not Share Poolmath, do you have what your CH was before the scale issue?), was plated out as calcium due to your water conditions, likely high pH and TA, and water temperature caused the scale.

I didn't test it before, as it was a complete swamp and I needed to drain/fill a few times. I'll track CSI and hopefully get this under control

 

[Texas Splash]

You are by no means the first (or last) person to interpret what the APP recommends and add chemicals accordingly. Sometimes a member will come back to the forum just to make sure they interpreted everything correctly, sometimes not. As Marty noted, the APP lists ranges for pool types, but may not know every scenario related to your pool. While I agree your pool didn't need all that calcium, it's not like you ruined anything. Summer's approaching so we may see less rains, but if you are lucky enough to get caught in a storm or two up there, lower the water level in advance and let Mother Nature fill it back up for free. Do that as much as you can.

To put this into perspective, my CH normally hovers around 350 - 400. Today it was 375, so you're not all that much higher than me. Just be sure to keep the pH under control, somewhere in 7.5-7.6 range should work well for now. If you really want to make the CSI more negative as Marty noted, to try and dissolve and calcium currently on the shell, a pH of about 7.3-7.4 might do the trick. The APP will show you.

If you have any questions going forward, don't hesitate to post back and let us know.

 

[mavitia22]

Hey all.... just got done SLAM'ing my pool after I discovered the pump hadn't been running for an unknown amount of time. There was probably 1-2" of dirt, leaves, algae and solar cover shreds on the bottom.
With work and life, it took me 1 month, a couple drains, and 3,495 filter cleanings.

If I added everything correctly, the only thing out of line is my total alkalinity (140 with a 60-80 target).
Got a dolphin plus something or another and it's working really well, we'll see how many years I get out of it.

I was scrubbing the scum line yesterday, which is normally a walk in the park with a Magic Eraser. Besides being a little tougher, and it using the whole eraser (normally I do it once a year and use maybe 1/3 of it), I noticed my pool is ROUGH.

What is causing this, and how can I get rid of it? It honestly feels like I need to take a scotch-brite drill attachment to it.

Hi. I was scrolling through threads about fiberglass pools, rough walls, and calcium scale. Was wondering if the rough walls cleared up in your pool, or if you were able to scrub it off? I, too, recently felt some rough patches on my walls and was hoping someone has had success clearing that up. Thank you.

 

[aceniza]

Hi. I was scrolling through threads about fiberglass pools, rough walls, and calcium scale. Was wondering if the rough walls cleared up in your pool, or if you were able to scrub it off? I, too, recently felt some rough patches on my walls and was hoping someone has had success clearing that up. Thank you.

I never really figured it out, but it ended up "softening up" and scrubbed off or eventually just came off on its own.

 

[mavitia22]

I never really figured it out, but it ended up "softening up" and scrubbed off or eventually just came off on its own.

Ok, glad to hear that. I'm hoping mine will, too. Thanks again.