FC & PH

[jrbevis]

Hi,
I'm currently slamming my pool. My target FC level is 28. Is it true that with high FC levels, PH readings are not accurate? I'm curious because I need to lower my TA, but I can't do that without accurate PH readings. Is it possible to SLAM and lower TA at the same time? Also, my CH is 100; I live in Vegas, so that number climbs rapidly over the summer. Should I leave it be or use chemicals to raise CH to 200-250?
Thanks

 

[ajw22]

No, forget about your TA until your pool is clear and everything is stable. Your TA does not matter.

pH test is not valid when FC is over 10.

You only need to test FC & CC during SLAM Process. And occasionally CYA. Do not bother with any other tests.

 

[ajw22]

Also, my CH is 100; I live in Vegas, so that number climbs rapidly over the summer. Should I leave it be or use chemicals to raise CH to 200-250?

@mknauss where would you start off CH in Vegas?

 

[jrbevis]

@mknauss where would you start off CH in Vegas?

Water from the tap has a CH of 100. I just refilled my pool, but I'm SLAMing out of an abundance of caution. Before refilling my pool, there were about 100 gallons left that my sump could not pump out. That existing water started to grow algae. I decided to SLAM to take care of it.

 

[mknauss]

Be sure you confirm that your unsoftened tap water has only a CH of 100. If so, then you do need to add some calcium to get up to 200 ppm or so. And let your TA and pH run on the high side for awhile.

There is a very small area of the LV valley that uses ground water instead of Colorado river water.

 

[jrbevis]

Be sure you confirm that your unsoftened tap water has only a CH of 100. If so, then you do need to add some calcium to get up to 200 ppm or so. And let your TA and pH run on the high side for awhile.

There is a very small area of the LV valley that uses ground water instead of Colorado river water.

Thank you