Evolution of An Older Pool: Rehab to Automation

[RWTL]

Part I: Fiberglass

A few years ago, a relative passed away and left my sister and me a house with a pool. I ended up buying the house from my sister and started to rehab this home. While it was unique and well decorated, there were a number of things that fell behind - including the pool. Below is the state I started with....I'm told the stains are cobalt stains - but they were not just surface level - There was a lot of pitting and bubbling behind the gelcoat.


I tried to get them out with Ascorbic Acid, but they had been there for too long and the damage was greater than just surface level.

After a lot of homework, I decided to hire a company to repair the damage and re-glass the pool. It turned out to be a larger job than they anticipated and they found that it had been "repaired" before, but someone just put gelcoat over the top of prior damage. This picture was during the process of repair...



After a little more than a week, the final product looked great - and still does more than a year later.



Continued in Part II

 

[RWTL]

Part II : Equipment

The pool equipment was/is outdated. The heater didn't work - and I found the compressor was rotted out. I ended up replacing the heater. The electrical panel was undersized and we found one of the breakers had melted. I had an electrician pull a new cable that was sized correctly and replaced the panel. They found multiple problems with the old wiring and breakers - something that is not just isolated to the pool equipment - but that's another story.

This brings us to the current project - See below.



I'd like to address several things moving forward, most likely in this order...

1. Put a border around the equipment and fill in with pea gravel. Replace the broken support under the filter.
2. Add a salt water generator - most likely a Pentair IC40
3. At the same time as step 2, add a bypass for future automation (DIY Nixie Pool Controller) that would include ports for monitoring
4. Replace the pump with a variable speed pump.

I'm thinking of adding the SWG as shown in black - with a vertical orientation. I'd also add a three way valve prior to the SWG and add the bypass (yellow) in a horizontal orientation parallel to the existing return line. I may have to be creative with this bypass plumbing because the current section is only about 15 inches and I'll need somewhere around 36" for the bypass.

I'd be curious on anyone's thoughts related to this plumbing plan....or anything else for that matter.

 

[Bperry]

Part II : Equipment

The pool equipment was/is outdated. The heater didn't work - and I found the compressor was rotted out. I ended up replacing the heater. The electrical panel was undersized and we found one of the breakers had melted. I had an electrician pull a new cable that was sized correctly and replaced the panel. They found multiple problems with the old wiring and breakers - something that is not just isolated to the pool equipment - but that's another story.

This brings us to the current project - See below.

View attachment 525988

I'd like to address several things moving forward, most likely in this order...

1. Put a border around the equipment and fill in with pea gravel. Replace the broken support under the filter.
2. Add a salt water generator - most likely a Pentair IC40
3. At the same time as step 2, add a bypass for future automation (DIY Nixie Pool Controller) that would include ports for monitoring
4. Replace the pump with a variable speed pump.

I'm thinking of adding the SWG as shown in black - with a vertical orientation. I'd also add a three way valve prior to the SWG and add the bypass (yellow) in a horizontal orientation parallel to the existing return line. I may have to be creative with this bypass plumbing because the current section is only about 15 inches and I'll need somewhere around 36" for the bypass.

I'd be curious on anyone's thoughts related to this plumbing plan....or anything else for that matter.

I was going to ask why that filter was so tiny and then saw you’re in Florida. There’s a weird rumor that Florida pool builders always install filters that are way too small. That might be something to consider replacing. Maybe since so many pools there are in screen rooms they try and get away with smaller filters?

 

[mknauss]

Why a loop for the SWCG?
No real need to get an IntelliChlor if you are not installing Pentair automation. A Circupool or Hayward is cheaper to install and replace cell when the time comes.
I would concentrate on getting a VS motor on that pump .

 

[proavia]

1 - Proper sized filter - maybe something in the 400 sqft cartridge size. Stay away from sand or DE - a cartridge filter is easier.
2 - VS pump
3 - SWG

With no automation, look at the Circupool RJ30+ or RJ45+ SWG
A SWG should be rated for at least 2x the pool volume. The IRO of a larger (than 2x) cell is great, if you maintain the pool to TFP standards.

 

[RWTL]

@mknauss @proavia @Bperry

Thank you all for the comments. I hadn't really thought about replacing the filter since it seems to be doing a good job keeping the pool clean. But the three of you have made me re-think this.

The reason for the bypass is that I'm installing automation - I should have added that as step 3. The initial automation will control the pump, heater, and SWG. That's also the reason I was leaning towards the IC40 rather than Circupool. I was actually planning on the Circupool at first, but decided to switch to IC when I made the decision for automation.

I believe the IC40 is 17", which is longer than I have to install in the current pipe configuation. That's why I was thinking of going vertical - and it also says it likes to have 12" of straight pipe before the IC40. I know that I have seen posts where folks said they have had luck without the 12" - but if I'm going to cut the pipe anyway, I thought I would add it.

I'd like to add the SWG before the pump because we travel frequently, and I don't have a backup for adding chlorine. Other than electrical savings, is there another reason to replace the pump before adding the SWG?

Thanks again for the comments.

 

[Bperry]

@mknauss @proavia @Bperry

Thank you all for the comments. I hadn't really thought about replacing the filter since it seems to be doing a good job keeping the pool clean. But the three of you have made me re-think this.

The reason for the bypass is that I'm installing automation - I should have added that as step 3. The initial automation will control the pump, heater, and SWG. That's also the reason I was leaning towards the IC40 rather than Circupool. I was actually planning on the Circupool at first, but decided to switch to IC when I made the decision for automation.

I believe the IC40 is 17", which is longer than I have to install in the current pipe configuation. That's why I was thinking of going vertical - and it also says it likes to have 12" of straight pipe before the IC40. I know that I have seen posts where folks said they have had luck without the 12" - but if I'm going to cut the pipe anyway, I thought I would add it.

I'd like to add the SWG before the pump because we travel frequently, and I don't have a backup for adding chlorine. Other than electrical savings, is there another reason to replace the pump before adding the SWG?

Thanks again for the comments.

Does the ic40 have the flow switch inside it? Usually that’s why they have the 12” advice, but the cell usually counts as part of that when they’re separate.

Your pump is glued in solid with no unions. Replacing it will require cutting pipe. Might make sense to do all the cutting at once with the SWG. The new pump may require reconfiguring pipes.

 

[RWTL]

Does the ic40 have the flow switch inside it? Usually that’s why they have the 12” advice, but the cell usually counts as part of that when they’re separate.

Your pump is glued in solid with no unions. Replacing it will require cutting pipe. Might make sense to do all the cutting at once with the SWG. The new pump may require reconfiguring pipes.

I've read that it does and is closer to the inlet.

You're right about the pipe going to the pump. There are at least 3 couplings coming out of the ground. I'm hoping there is enough pipe after the 90 degree elbow to use.

I'm also wondering if the pvc coming out of the filter is taking "the long way" to the heater.

 

[mknauss]

future automation (DIY Nixie Pool Controller)

You are sure that will communicate with an Intellichlor? Rare for a Pentair product to be controlled by anything but a Pentair controller.

 

[RWTL]

I believe so....

A number of your equipment items may communicate using the RS-485 protocol. These include variable speed/flow pumps, heatpumps (UltraTemp), Chlorinators (IntelliClor, AquaRite), and IntelliChem. This pool controller can control them all. An RS-485 comm port was connected in the main controller box. Simply connect the data A and data B lines for to the connector in your pool controller enclosure. You may connect as many RS-485 controlled devices as you like to the RS-485 communication bus in the controller enclosure.

@MyAZPool - Is your IC connected directly to the Raspberry Pi, or are you connecting via Intellicenter?

 

[Bperry]

I've read that it does and is closer to the inlet.

You're right about the pipe going to the pump. There are at least 3 couplings coming out of the ground. I'm hoping there is enough pipe after the 90 degree elbow to use.

I'm also wondering if the pvc coming out of the filter is taking "the long way" to the heater.

If your couplings are in the way, you might just be able to dig down 6” and replace the elbow with fresh pipe. Gives you a chance to clean that up and route things different if needed.

 

[RWTL]

If your couplings are in the way, you might just be able to dig down 6” and replace the elbow with fresh pipe. Gives you a chance to clean that up and route things different if needed.

That might be a good idea. I don't know what the requirements are in Fl. Do you know if they typically go down only 6"? That would be great.

 

[Bperry]

That might be a good idea. I don't know what the requirements are in Fl. Do you know if they typically go down only 6"? That would be great.

The vertical pipe hopefully goes down more than 6”. It’s just that to install a removable union, you may need to get rid of that elbow that’s visible and replace with a new one. Totally up to your preferences. You up don’t need to close your pool because of freezing weather so maybe unions aren’t so much of a concern.

 

[RWTL]

The vertical pipe hopefully goes down more than 6”. It’s just that to install a removable union, you may need to get rid of that elbow that’s visible and replace with a new one. Totally up to your preferences. You up don’t need to close your pool because of freezing weather so maybe unions aren’t so much of a concern.

That makes sense. Thanks.

 

[MyAZPool]

I believe so....

@MyAZPool - Is your IC connected directly to the Raspberry Pi, or are you connecting via Intellicenter?

@RWTL
My IC-60 RS-485 is physically connected to my IntelliCenter SWCG Controller Board.
However, it can still be controlled via my nodejs-poolController (Raspberry PI) as well as the IntelliCenter Web Client and mobile app.
r.