Do I need to refill pool?

[waskydiver]

I have an inground plaster pool. The plaster is about 10 years old and is getting a little rough. I'm not really prepared financially to replaster it so I was considering doing some spot work this spring: Maybe some spot acid washing of some stubborn stains. There are a few chips in the plaster that I was considering repairing. Plus some calcium deposits that I wanted to sand down. (Maybe a lot of this isn't a great idea, but it's not the purpose of my post, though I'd not turn my back on free advice).

So I figured that I would just lower the water below the return jets so that I don't have to worry about any freezing. (Usually, I just run the pump during really cold snaps).

Now I have about 1 foot of exposed plaster and I am wondering if I should refill it as I am now learning that that is bad for the plaster.

I live in the Seattle area, so it's going to be mostly rainy and in the 30's to 40's all winter.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[duraleigh]

Rainy and 40 won't hurt your plaster...........besides, you already have some patching and improvements that won't look new. Nevertheless, I think your plan is very doable until you can replaster.

The repairs will be more visible than you probably think. Look into our TFP procedures to prevent most all of those issues going forward but you won't be able to completely "undo" the damage.

 

[Bperry]

I have an inground plaster pool. The plaster is about 10 years old and is getting a little rough. I'm not really prepared financially to replaster it so I was considering doing some spot work this spring: Maybe some spot acid washing of some stubborn stains. There are a few chips in the plaster that I was considering repairing. Plus some calcium deposits that I wanted to sand down. (Maybe a lot of this isn't a great idea, but it's not the purpose of my post, though I'd not turn my back on free advice).

So I figured that I would just lower the water below the return jets so that I don't have to worry about any freezing. (Usually, I just run the pump during really cold snaps).

Now I have about 1 foot of exposed plaster and I am wondering if I should refill it as I am now learning that that is bad for the plaster.

I live in the Seattle area, so it's going to be mostly rainy and in the 30's to 40's all winter.

Thanks for any advice.

It depends on how long you’re going to leave it exposed. Does the water freeze in Seattle? There’s no reason to lower the water level (and risk the plaster) if it doesn’t.

 

[duraleigh]

Bperry,
I assumed he wants to lower water to begin repairs on his pool. OP, is that right?

 

[Mdragger88]

Lowering the water level for the winter is fine - but you must also winterize the pool plumbing and equipment to protect it from freeze damage.
Then as you mentioned, do your surface repairs in the spring.
If you get alot of rain the pool may fill back up some when winterized. Without it running you may need to use a submersible pump to keep the water below any tile line to prevent damage.

Closing an In Ground Pool

Winterizing a pool is essential for keeping your in-ground pool protected during cold-weather months. This Pool Repair guide will show you how to do it.

www.google.com

 

[duraleigh]

I think we need to hear from OP. Does he intend to close pool in Seattle? I don't think I would especially if plaster repairs are on the agenda.

 

[waskydiver]

Hi all... Thanks for the replies so far...Here are some clarifications (Hopefully you all won't be too horrified).

I usually do not winterize the pool. I don't even have a cover for the pool. I just set the timer to run the filter for about an hour overnight and if we hit a cold snap I will run it more frequently. I am used to opening a swamp in the spring with SLAM. This is probably why I have some stubborn stains. But the plaster is about 10 years old so I don't have that much to complain about. I've just really learned to trust the SLAM. I'm less intimidated by a swamp than going through the winterization process.

Since I plan to do some maintenance in the spring and am going to drain the water anyway I figured that I would just remove the drain plugs from the filter, heater and pump, and lower the water below the return jets. This way I won't have to worry about running the pump to avoid freeze damage.

Then in the spring, I finish the drain, do some maintenance on the plaster, refill, and am good to go. At least the theory. I am just a little concerned about leaving the 1 foot of exposed plaster exposed for the winter.

 

[Bperry]

Hi all... Thanks for the replies so far...Here are some clarifications (Hopefully you all won't be too horrified).

I usually do not winterize the pool. I don't even have a cover for the pool. I just set the timer to run the filter for about an hour overnight and if we hit a cold snap I will run it more frequently. I am used to opening a swamp in the spring with SLAM. This is probably why I have some stubborn stains. But the plaster is about 10 years old so I don't have that much to complain about. I've just really learned to trust the SLAM. I'm less intimidated by a swamp than going through the winterization process.

Since I plan to do some maintenance in the spring and am going to drain the water anyway I figured that I would just remove the drain plugs from the filter, heater and pump, and lower the water below the return jets. This way I won't have to worry about running the pump to avoid freeze damage.

Then in the spring, I finish the drain, do some maintenance on the plaster, refill, and am good to go. At least the theory. I am just a little concerned about leaving the 1 foot of exposed plaster exposed for the winter.

I’d feel more comfortable if you had a cover over the winter. Just draining below the returns doesn’t do much for you. You also have to blow out the skimmers and returns to get the water out of the plumbing. Non moving water will freeze a bit easier than circulating water.

 

[Mdragger88]

Lots of People go “coverless” & that is totally fine - it just means more debris will end up in the pool as you won’t be skimming to help clear it. Not sure what generally makes it’s way in at your house but here I’d go nuts watching it

Cover or no, you must blow out the plumbing to winterize as @Bperry mentioned if you won’t be running the pool or you risk damage that’s not easy to fix.
Those things aside your plaster should be fine & your plan seems good so long as you add blowing & plugging the lines to your list.

Here at TFP we prefer to close algae free & open the same way - a cover definitely helps that happen but isn’t a total necessity especially if you’re past the bulk of the leaf dump now & open early.
Read through the closing guide posted above to get an understanding of how that’s accomplished.