DIY Solar Cover Roller

Would it be worthwhile at all to cap the ends of the pipe (even if just a friction fit, no glue) to help with buoyancy or does it not matter?

I was thinking it might make it easier to grip and turn and I figured any water build up inside the tube could be drained off just by taking the end caps off.
 
No because the cover connections penetrate the pipe which will allow water in and when you pull out the rolled up cover, you want that water to drain out so it is best to leave it open. The pipe is foam core so it floats anyway.
Same answer
 
As Mark has discussed, I don't think caps would do anything. If it's foam core, it'll float. I don't see any need to protect the inside of the pipe from h2o intrusion. And as far as gripping, that's not a problem even w/out caps. Of my two solar rollers I made last year, one of the pipes I cut too short so the end is not abutting my pool sidewall, but it is not a problem at all to roll and unroll the cover though. I have found that since I have gotten used to rolling/unrolling I don't specifically rely on just the ends, especially when I am unrolling it back on the pool. It's hard to explain; it's kind of a hands-on all different parts technique. You'll find what works best after you get used to it.

Maybe Mark could explain the roll/unroll better, but I don't think it's just a "use the ends" technique.
 
Hmmmmmm going to have to look at this more closely.
Not doing well finding anything for a 30' above ground.

Have you checked Sunplay or INYOPool for covers?

I just cut my 20'x40' 8mil cover to fit my freeform pool. I'm constructing my DIY solar roller now. Will post pictures of the completed project tomorrow; unfortunately the wind picked up and I only got half the cover complete.
 
So I completed my DIY Solar Cover Roller and thought I would add/share my experience. First off, many, many THANKS! to Mark (mas985) for sharing this DIY project.

Summary

-- Cover still requires getting into the water to deploy BUT it is a much better improvement to the alternative, i.e., fighting with an unwieldy bubble cover.

-- Automotive panel clamps worked excellently

-- My very asymmetric free-form pool makes this project a bit more difficult

-- Using two 18' sections is a bit unwieldy; next time I will probably cut the cover into three sections instead

Materials & Costs

(1) 8-mil blue 20'x40' bubble cover (stitched seams) : $140

(4) 10ft lengths of 1-1/2" Cellular core (foam core) ABS DWV Pipe : $8.63 per unit, $34.52 total

(2) ABS couplings : $2

(1) Oakley ABS Pipe Cement : $3.55

(20) Black Nylon Panel Retainers, 7/16" stem diameter x 13/16" stem length : $0.30 per piece, $6 total

Process

The total amount of time it took to do all this work was ~6 hours spread over two days. I deployed the rectangular cover onto the pool and cut it out to the shape of the pool as see here -



I left the cover on for 24 hours in order to let it expand and contract as needed and then did some final smaller cuts before splitting it down the mid-point of the pool across it's widest point. This created two 18-ft sections. ABS pipe was cut, glued and holes drilled into it every 24". In order to secure the cover to the ABS pipe, I found automotive panel connectors at my local Ace Hardware which worked perfectly. They look like this -



The panel retainer has exactly the right gap length between the head and the fins for the sch40 ABS pipe. You could hear a very distinct click when the retainer was pressed fully down. I used 8 retainers on each length of pipe.

The final product looked like this -





It's not perfect but it's way better than trying to struggle with an odd shaped cover. Because of the irregular shape of my pool, many of the curves of the pool make the cover difficult to deploy simply by standing at the edge of the pool. Unfortunately, someone has to get into the water to help as the cover unrolls to ensure that it rolls out without getting tangled up. As well, the long 18ft lengths make the roller harder to work with. Weight-wise it is fine, the problem is there's a bit too much flexure to the pipe. If I had to do it over again, I'd either do three, 12-ft sections OR I'd run the pipe the shorter direction of my pool width. The freeform shape really makes it more difficult to get a good axis of symmetry.

Finally, the 8-mil solar cover is cheap and the bubbles are weak. So I think a slightly thicker 12-mil cover would work a little better. I don't expect this cover to last more than 2 years but that's ok. The overall project cost me about $186 plus 6 hours of my time and that's not bad. If it lasts two years and I completely redo everything, it's still a lot cheaper than the alternatives.

Fun project but a little word to the wise - it's best to do it on a COOL day with NO WIND. One reason why we split this over two days was because the winds tend to pick up here around noon and blow all afternoon. Once the wind gets going, the cover flies everywhere and is impossible to hold down.
 
-- Cover still requires getting into the water to deploy BUT it is a much better improvement to the alternative, i.e., fighting with an unwieldy bubble cover.
You shouldn't need to get in, I never do. The trick from the original solar roller site is to put the rolled stick a little over half in the water with about 1/3rd sticking out over the deck. Grab the cover on one side (top works best) and unroll the cover about half way then slide the rest into the water and unroll the rest at the edge of the pool. This however won't work if you don't have deck on the side you need to. It takes a little practice but you should be able unroll it without getting in. Here are some videos:

SolarRoller.com | Solar Roller Cover Stick for your Solar Cover
 
You shouldn't need to get in, I never do. The trick from the original solar roller site is to put the rolled stick a little over half in the water with about 1/3rd sticking out over the deck. Grab the cover on one side (top works best) and unroll the cover about half way then slide the rest into the water and unroll the rest at the edge of the pool. This however won't work if you don't have deck on the side you need to. It takes a little practice but you should be able unroll it without getting in. Here are some videos:

SolarRoller.com | Solar Roller Cover Stick for your Solar Cover

I'll give that a try next time. Some of the odd lobe shapes want to deploy before they should and wind up getting tangled up. So I might need to do as you say to get it mostly start and then push it out into place. Still much to learn and practice.

One other consequence of such long segments is my pipe is a little bowed. I wonder if 2" ABS would have been better/stiffer...
 
So I looked at the pictures again and if you roll the cover up CCW and then put it on top of the spa, you can start to unroll it up there by pulling the cover part the goes over the top of the roll. The bundle will start to roll towards the pool and it should drop down into the pool where you just keep pulling on the one end as you walk to the other side. Some of the cover will still need to be on the close end of the deck.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
So I looked at the pictures again and if you roll the cover up CCW and then put it on top of the spa, you can start to unroll it up there by pulling the cover part the goes over the top of the roll. The bundle will start to roll towards the pool and it should drop down into the pool where you just keep pulling on the one end as you walk to the other side. Some of the cover will still need to be on the close end of the deck.

Ok, I see what your saying. That should make it easier.
 
@JoyfulNoise - looks great! I bought all the pieces today minus the fasteners. Do you happen to know what make car those fasteners are for? Or what the total length and diameter are? I see you didn't use a second piece of the ABS as a clamp for each attachment point. I'd be worried that the cover may tear in the attachment points.
 
@JoyfulNoise - looks great! I bought all the pieces today minus the fasteners. Do you happen to know what make car those fasteners are for? Or what the total length and diameter are? I see you didn't use a second piece of the ABS as a clamp for each attachment point. I'd be worried that the cover may tear in the attachment points.

Hmmmm....it was either Ford or GM I don't remember.

They are black nylon panel retainers. The head diameter is 1". The stem diameter is 7/16". The stem length is 13/16". My local Ace Hardware had them in their vast section of nuts, bolts, washers, fasteners, bearings, etc, etc.

Yeah, I thought of using a second piece of ABS cut from 2" ABS pipe to act as a clamp but I decided it was not necessary. The panel fasteners have a 1" head diameter on them and it clamps down on the bubble cover material quite snugly. There's no movement at all. I also did about 8 to 9 fasteners on each pipe at a 24" spacing. It's pretty overkill in terms of clamping force from my point of view.
 
Yeah, I thought of using a second piece of ABS cut from 2" ABS pipe to act as a clamp but I decided it was not necessary.
Just an FYI about the clamp. I didn't use a clamp at first but I found that the edge of the fasteners would dig into the cover when you roll it up and eventually rip it. The clamps prevent that. If you are careful, you can prevent it too but I wanted the cover robust enough so my kids could take it off without destroying it.
 
Just an FYI about the clamp. I didn't use a clamp at first but I found that the fasteners would dig into the cover when you roll it up and eventually rip it. The clamps prevent that. If you are careful, you can prevent it too but I wanted the cover robust enough so my kids could take it off without destroying it.

Ok. I'll report back if I see signs of tearing. I wanted to keep the connection as simple as possible and these wide head panel clips seemed like a good compromise.
 
all very good interesting stuff. I must have a go at this, but I can't find that foam core pipe in the Houston area. Lowes can get 20 ft lengths.....provided I order 12 x 20 ft lengths as a minimum. :(
Thanks for this thread, very good.
 
all very good interesting stuff. I must have a go at this, but I can't find that foam core pipe in the Houston area. Lowes can get 20 ft lengths.....provided I order 12 x 20 ft lengths as a minimum. :(
Thanks for this thread, very good.

Lowes did not have it in my area but Home Depot did.
 
So I looked at the pictures again and if you roll the cover up CCW and then put it on top of the spa, you can start to unroll it up there by pulling the cover part the goes over the top of the roll. The bundle will start to roll towards the pool and it should drop down into the pool where you just keep pulling on the one end as you walk to the other side. Some of the cover will still need to be on the close end of the deck.

Update - I did as you suggested with rolling the smaller cover section up CCW and then, when deploying it, I used the spa and deck to partially unroll it first. Worked great. I did CW rotation on the other longer section and similarly used the deck to unroll it a bit first and that also worked great too. I still had to spend some time going from side to side on the pool to jostle the sections into place but all-in-all it took less than 30mins to deploy and set both sections into place. That's a huge improvement over previous wrestling matches (requiring 2 people minimum) with other full sized covers.

I still think I can improve it a bit by using three smaller sections next time but that'll hopefully be a few years from now. Being able to roll up, move and redeploy an 18' X 36' free-form shape cover on my pool all by myself is a huge win.

So, once again, THANK YOU!!!

Matt

PS - How often do you clean your cover?? I knew it would get grimy from previous cover experience but I'm just wondering if you unroll it somewhere and hose it off and how often you think it should be done...
 
It is too much of a hassle unrolling outside of the pool so before rolling it up, I will use the pool brush to push the larger debris into one of the skimmers and then every couple of weeks I will just hose off the dirt while still in the pool. It adds some dirt to the pool but that's what the cleaner and filter are for.
 
I want to do this, but have some questions. Here are some pictures of my pool, would I need one or two pieces? Also would I run the pipe with length wise or width wise? Pool is irregular shape with the widest point being 25 feet and approximately 32 feet long. I am guessing I would run the roll up pipe width wise sense on Rowlette the other way would be difficult with the high wall behind the pool? Also, in the wading pool, I have a 2 inch PVC pipe for a fountain sticking up, I guess I would just cut a hole in the cover to slip over this? Thx I appreciate any advice.

95f6a5941be70bceb4876358d8a310cd.jpg
3b6e8612e1d52d8c3cb7f9f71d11c450.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.