DIY Pentair pool automation article

Year 9 post Automation:

The system is still working nicely. Probes are responsive equiptment nominal. Last year I had to replace the face plate of the intellichem-- the ribbon cable had failed- but working again nicely now. I also bought an new IC 60 when my IC40 died. I feel that the IC 40 did well during its appropriate lifespan. I have a seal kit standing by for my Intelliflow VF-- but there is still no sign of any seal issue even in this ninth year. Only thing I have never solved in all these years: Screen logic does not show the filter % on my interface. Never has. I asked a pentair rep about it about a year ago. He told me my system was obsolete and could offer no help......

For any one following this it may be less than relevant now as pentair equiptment is always changing, But if you have any questions feel free to reach out.
 
Year 10 post DIY automation:

Thanks for the bump mgill!!

So year number 10 after my diy Automation !! (original article attached below)

Opened about April 13 and was swimming about two days later. Probes seem to be working nicely on the intellichem.

Last year I had to replace the front cover on the intellichem-- seems that the ribbon cable delaminated-- took a long time to get a new one due to the supply chain issues. The IC60 has been doing well and corrects the f/c much faster than the IC40. I hope it will last longer because it cycles less.

The pink pentair acid tubing on my acid tank has been impossible to source- mine had to be replaced. I found this at Mcmaster Carr:

1Extreme-Temp PTFE Opaque Tubing for Chemicals 3/16" ID
1/4" OD, Red, 10 ft. Length
52315K18

It fits nicely on the output of my acid tank and works well with the compression fittings on the stenner pump. It seems to hold up to the muraiatic acid. I am using the white compression connectors that do not require the special rings. The alternative would have been to upgrade to Pentairs newer acid tank with motor on board, which would have also required a controller board add on to my intellichem-- no thanks on that expense. (Pictures attached)

I have still not had to replace the seals on my VF pump-- even 10 years later!! maybe thats because I only run at 15GPM.

I will have to replace my Tagelus TA50 filter body this year. It is 15 years old and preceeds the automation. Is having a few pin hole leaks that I can no longer stem with epoxy. Have to replace it with a slightly larger TA50D so I may have to rework a little of my plumbing. I can not source a TA50 as of covid.

With my 3D printer (new toy) I created domed tubes to fit over my probes and protect them from the elements where the wires enter the top.( picture attached)

Still have never gotten my filter status bar to read, but all the other parameters work well in screenlogic.

At Year 7 I had calculated that the energy savings on my VF pump should have covered its cost... At year 10 I hope I am covering the cost in theory of some of the other components (Yeah dream on) Although there are always new thing to fix or buy---

When I look at Pentairs website it is clear to me that my set up is now old tech-- but it is still going strong.

TFP doesn't like the intellichem (finds it finniky- and it is !), but If your tech is new or old these are the things that have helped me make it work for me.

1) Run your pump 24/7 a the lowest flow rate that you can-- This allows me to keep the temperature constant and allows the probes to read continously. Temperature affects the probes and the salinity readings from the intellichlor. At 15 GPM my power usage is 200 watts. In 24 h I get just over one turnover daily and the water is clear.
2) Adding CYA affects the probes readings. Keep it less than 30 but I do think having some helps buffer f/c losses. My pool has an automatic cover which helps save f/c too. I try to keep the f/c at about 5 as it does drop quickly on sunny days when the cover is open.
3) I have found that adding a few boxes of borax yearly seems to really help keep the PH more stable as an additional buffer. It also makes the water feel silky. I keep my PH about 7.45
4) I have disconnects for the motors (Intelliflow vf and polaris booster) and I take them indoors each winter. I think this has helped their longevity. I take in the Intellichlor as well.
5) I can't stess enough that if you put away a clean pool you will open up a clean pool and be swimming far more quickly.

Hope this continues to help those that are interested..... Please reach out if you have any questions. Some current pics of the setup below and the original DIY article.

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I update this post about DIY pool automation when I open and I close the pool- I am getting ready to close in the next few weeks. I hope someone will get a kick from it or learn a helpful tip if ever it gets seen.

I can't believe its been a decade since I installed my combo of Easy touch, Intelliflow VF, intellichem and intellichlor. By may calculations the energy savings should have paid for the pump in year 8 but I suspect I have a long way to go before the savings pay for the system and the routine maintainence. Trouble free doesn't mean maintaince free or cost free LOL !

So this was a fantastic year.

I started with a very thorough replacement of the epoxy around my pool skimmers. I had always been chasing a leak which I knew when the salt level would drop due to the auto refill dilution. I have not added any salt since startup in april. This also translates into losing less chlorine and less cya.

The intellichem did its thing all season until just now, but more on that soon. All I did this season was add cya, startup salt with refill and muriatic acid when my tank got low.

So some updates that I hope will help someone else:

1) CYA. Intellichemn-- so intellichem does not like CYA. It messes with the orp sensor. I had historically run with almost no cya but had tremendous FC drops when my pool cover opened. I wanted to raise CYA this summer to at least 30 and spent a lot of time with a sock and granules dissolving. I got impatient and ordered two gallons of liquid CYA. That stuff is expensive! Two gallons later, no socks and no time I had a CYA of about 30. Time is money and I would order the liquid CYA in a heartbeat again. I feel that it really helped a lot to buffer the Fc drop when we swam. ( it really affects you ORP reading so test your FC when your orp is stable)

2) My Ph sensor. Got a "bad ph probe" message from the intellichem about a week ago. First thing I do is check the cable. I really don't know why but for some reason I have found that the cables are often the problem, not the sensor. Problem is that I did not have a new cable to test ( these cables are crazy expensive through Pxxxtair) . Found an old cable ( ORP , but really thay are the same) that had been chewed partially buy a varmit. I cut of the end, soldered it to a good area and the probe is reading fine now. I don't know why these cables fail, but check them first before you spend $300 on a new probe.

On that note, my probes have been in service for I think about 5 years. I am careful with them, I clean them about once or twice a season. I store them upright with ph/orp solution and they have exceeded my expectations.

3) The screeen on my intelliflow died as I started the summer. Its a known issue but Pxxxair will have you buy a new VSF pump control panel to the tune of about $800. I Didn't need the screen because my functions are controlled by screenlogic. I was prepared to fix it myself or sent it to a guy on ebay who fixes these things-usually moisture and corrosion related, but it is working on its own again, I suspect because something inside dried out.

4) I love my Intellichlor 60. It keeps up so much better than th IC 40. Go big or go home with your chlorinator.

5) My intelliflow VF is having a little vibration. I have never changed the shaft seals in 10 years. I will do that this winter. I hope that is the solution. Changing the bearind is more challenging.

6) So I have written an article about changing my Coverstxxr pool cove in the past. I bought a new PCS replacement last winter but the old one gave me this entire season. Next spring I will replace it. If I open it fully it comes out of its track, but it should make it through the winter.

Full automation with Pentxxiar is not without a learning curve. The intellichem is a bit of art and science and gets a bad wrap on TFP, but other than cleaning I did soo little maintainence this year I continue to love it.

See you in the spring !!
 
11 year follow up on diy pentair pool automation. Curious if this thread ever gets looked at any more. Opened last week and all is good.

Over the winter:

Replaced Raypak heater header gaskets. Adjusted the outflow pressure down. Even with cleaning the heating coils was getting high temp shut off and rollout. Had to replace the rollout sensor and millivolt igniter. I wish they made these heaters in stainless steel. They rust remarkably on the inside even when covereed over the winter.

Changed the shaft seal and gaskets on my intelliflow VF. working nicely-- the unit had never been opened before.
Intelliflow display was not reading-- based on some internet posts I opened the controller cleaned the display contacts, added a bit more pressure to the contacts and it is working good as new.
Changed the BNC cable for the orp/ph probes-- I find these tend to fail.
Ph probe need a +.5 tweak to make it accurate. I bought it in 2019. I suspect it is failing and will require replacing soon. Orp seem to read consistently.

I may replace my pool cover this year-- I have a backup waiting. If I open the current cover too far the far side rope which is degrade comes out of its channel. It k as long as I remember to leve it a few inches from fully open--- May try to get another year.

Newest pearl-- I have found that too much cya is not good for probe readings. but a level of about 30 does seem to give me good readings on the orp.

Hope this will be a trouble free season.
 
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