DIY pavers / block wall for semi inground pool

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DuckHunter - I saved all the scrap cuts. The coping I have here is the 2 track with liner and winter cover bead. My pavers go right up to it - could still get the cover clipped in if I wanted to - that said, I have a different cover I am going to use this year.
Coping Side shot Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.
Coping 2 tracks shot Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.

mapro - instead of cutting the caps I jointed them with Type M cement/mortar (forgot what the "Pros" call it).

BTW Gwegan is right - ONLY use the power compactor if you are away from the wall. At first I was thinking you were doing decking. Do not power compact anything closer than 3 feet.

As far as stone goes you need to figure out the dimensions of your over dig. So use a calculator like this one http://www.fredburrows.com/calculator/calc.html
 
Mapromonyc - hope you don't mind me continuing to post here. If you would rather I start my own post, happy to do so, just figured we're looking into the same questions so i'd keep it all here.

MMM923 - thanks for the pictures, that is the standard 2" coping. There is also a deluxe coping (still plastic) which has two two tracks, both on the inside of the pool, as well as a paver/cantilever coping, which has 1 or 2 tracks on the inside of the pool. I like the idea of the paver/cantilever coping, but still unsure how it conforms to the pool shape since it's extruded aluminum. If you don't mind me asking, were you not happy with the clip in cover? This has been a big concern of mine - how I'm going to cover the pool with the stone work around it - pool builder says tarp with water bags around it - but we get some wicked winds and I don't trust the water bags would hold it.

As for the bonding - I have to speak with my electrical inspector to see what he wants. The 2014 NEC code states: Conductive pool shells must be bonded in a minimum of four (4) equal points uniformly spaced around the pool. Non-Conductive pool shells must have a #8 (or larger) solid, bare copper wire 18-24" from the inside pool wall under the perimeter surface 4"-6" below the final grade. So in my case, I plan on using 8" blocks, with 12-14" cap stones to go around the pool. 18-24" out from the inside wall will be out past these caps/blocks, so I believe I just need to run the bonding wire 4"-6" under the surround (washed stone in my case) and not under the cap stones. But would it be more practical/safe to also run a loop under the cap stones?

Thanks!
 
Thanks, this lack of info is what I'm finding as well. Tough for an engineer who wants to see/touch/research everything before spending money!

So did you just bring the cap stones up flush with the 2" coping? That's what I keep going back to, both for ease of building as well as to prevent frost heave messing up the coping.

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DuckHunter Jon it's totally fine to continue the thread. We are definitely looking to do a similar project. I didn't get a chance to take a picture of my coping but here is what I have.
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My pavers are appx 1/4-1/2" from the coping. The gap is filled with paver sand. The sand sits just low enough that I can still get the winter cover on (although I wont be using it this year). I would think you could do the same with capstones however I think the number of cuts you would need to make would jack up the price of install (DIY price you would need many more caps and install price would be more caps and much more labor). If I didnt put 3-6+' of pavers around the pool I would have put at least 2-4 rows of pavers between the wall of the pool and the retaining wall. This would help you "square" the wall for lack of a better way to put it. Lay the pavers in a running bond pattern Running Bond | Brick Path Pattern Guide | This Old House and you will make minimal cuts. Also, if for some reason you need to get to the pool wall, pulling a few pavers out is much easier than taking the wall down/apart (not to mention your concern about frost - pavers will flex and if they pop up a rubber mallet gets them back in easily). We have a soldier course butting up to the capstone and running bond to the pool wall/coping.
 
I am now thinking of going with stamped concrete on the side of my steps and pavers on the opposite side. I have an existing red brick patio and hoping they can somehow blend the old with the new. I was thinking pavers on the opposite end because of the plumbing. And for the walls of like to go with a wall surround. Im trying to go the most economical option. Do you know if I have stamped concrete poured up to but not against the pool wall would the pad be strong enough for the wall if I decide to do it next season?


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If budget is the concern (Like it was for me), Do the wall first this year, you can't risk pouring concrete or placing pavers without some kind of structure to prevent them from shifting or worse sliding. If you are backfilling with dirt you need to let it settle - especially with the sandy soil in most Long Island yards.
 
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