Diving Board Bolts and Nuts Rusted Seized

[Household6]

Searched the forum but couldn’t find the same scenario, oddly enough.

A dose of PB and 15 minutes resulted in the bolt and nut finally turning together.

Two add’l applications of PB resulted in nothing. So I did what any reasonable person would do and tried hitting them with a hammer. Several times. Several angles. Hard.

When that didn’t work I hit the plastic white cover from the top and popped out the inserts. I became even more confused as the bolts appear to in fact be stainless and rust-free!

I’m guessing the bolt thread covers must have trapped moisture and did this. So unless anyone suggests otherwise I sure won’t be using them on the new bolts!

Dosed everything up with PB again and let it sit overnight. Still no cookie!

This is the first time PB has ever failed me, so I’m at a loss.

Considered using Coke and letting the acid eat the rust, but I’d need to be able to soak it. No way to do that upside down.

Thought about using the Dremel with a cutting disk. I think that could make it through the bolt, but I doubt it could cut the nut.

Any suggestions?

(BTW, I ordered a new set of everything to replace with ($72 from Leslie’s) and picked up some anti-seize from the auto parts store yesterday.)

 

[Desert Dog]

A 4" or 5" angle grinder with a cutting disc comes to mind. Might be able to rent one.

 

[jmhjgh]

Cut them off from below with either angle grinder or reciprocating saw. Hacksaw by hand would work, but not the first choice.

 

[desertblue]

You could try a nut splitting tool. Auto parts stores should have them.

 

[djdonte]

You could heat them with a torch which will work for sure if you get it red hot, but then you might melt something above. An angle grinder with a cutting disc, or sawzall will do the trick for sure, but be sure to have water on hand to cool it or else things with the diving board could get melty. The hacksaw would work but will take alot of elbow grease. I've never used a nut splitter, as there is never clearance for them in cars that I work on.

Also I think you are lacking a little on tools, you need an open end wrench that fits the nut perfectly. Crescent wrenches and channel locks will not work here. If you had a vise grip for the bolt tip, and the proper size wrench for the nut this would be a breeze with a tiny bit of heat.

EDIT- Just saw the box wrench.. if it is the proper size try doubling up with another wrench if you have one or use a cheater pipe.

 

[JohnT]

Evaporust.

 

[borjis]

Haha I was going to suggest an application of anti seize on the new bolts but you're already on top of that! I put some on the slightly rusted bolts of my pump motor after a seal change. Knowing they will remove without hesitation next time.

 

[Household6]

You could heat them with a torch which will work for sure if you get it red hot, but then you might melt something above. An angle grinder with a cutting disc, or sawzall will do the trick for sure, but be sure to have water on hand to cool it or else things with the diving board could get melty. The hacksaw would work but will take alot of elbow grease. I've never used a nut splitter, as there is never clearance for them in cars that I work on.

Also I think you are lacking a little on tools, you need an open end wrench that fits the nut perfectly. Crescent wrenches and channel locks will not work here. If you had a vise grip for the bolt tip, and the proper size wrench for the nut this would be a breeze with a tiny bit of heat.

EDIT- Just saw the box wrench.. if it is the proper size try doubling up with another wrench if you have one or use a cheater pipe.

Didn’t think of a pipe. Will try that.
No angle grinder, but I do have a reciprocating saw.
Might see if Auto parts place has a nut splitter in their loaner tools.
Great ideas!
Thanks all!

 

[Household6]

UPDATE:
For anyone else who comes across the same issue . . .

You need:
Reciprocating saw with appropriate blade
Flathead screwdriver
Hammer
Vacuum with a hose (shop vac)
Eye protection (sunglasses)
Extension cord
(Optional) Padding/towel to rest your knees on as you’re going to be there a few minutes with th saw for the bolts.

Used a reciprocating saw and cut the bolt off just above the nut (actually took the extreme top of the nut off too as there’s no space to get the saw into). Maybe you’ll get lucky here and your bolt will come out. If not (like me) . . .

You need to completely remove the white bolt head cover (not just the circular part that fits into it). Wedged a flathead screwdriver under it and used a hammer to tap it in as far as it would go. Pry up. Repeat 3-4 times on different places. Careful to not hit anyone in the eye when the white pieces go flying. We had to use the screwdriver as a chisel tapping it with a hammer to get some of the pieces out.

Odd that the bolt head cover was preventing the bolts from lifting out, but once we removed it each bolt came out easily.

The reciprocating saw throws tiny dust-sized pieces of metal from the bolt as it’s being cut. I’m sure glad I had on my sunnies a couple times. You’ll want to have the vacuum there so you can get up all metal on the ground. Nobody needs that in their foot!

Once I clean up and paint the diving board and reinstall it, I can assure you I won’t be putting the bolt cover on the bottom of the bolt. All it does is harbor moisture and allows rust to form and crawl up the entire length of the bolt, even the part inside the board. Both nuts were seized onto the bolts I cut off.
Maybe I’ll dip the very bottom 1/32 of the bolts into plasti dip for the sharp edges.

Hope this helps!

 

[jmhjgh]

Make sure to use an anti-seize lubricant when you install the new hardware.

 

[sktn77a]

I didn't have any problem with the board mounting bolts. But the mounting bolts (in the decking) for the fiberglass base were completely rusted out and I had to have a new base frame installed and a cement surround poured!