I need to start a SLAM and I’m having a hard time determining what the PH, TA and CYA are in my pool since it is rather cloudy today.
It looks like PH is somewhere between 7.5-8.0, after testing it with my K-2006 comparator (using R-0004) and my TF-100 comparator (using R-0014). When I put 5 drops of R-0004 into the K-2006 comparator, the PH looks like it is 7.8-8.0. When I put 5 drops of R-0014 into the TF-100 comparator, it looks like PH is 7.5. If the PH happens to be 7.8-8.0 like my K-2006 test seems to suggest, will I be able to clear up my pool? Chlorine was only 2 ppms when these tests were taken and pump has been running for 48 straight hours, so I assume these test results are accurate. I've included a picture of my two comparators so you can see what I'm talking about. I looked at the two comparators indoors in a brightly lighted room and came to the same conclusions. I added muriatic acid to the pool to get the PH to these levels but the acid was added 24 hours ago. PH was above 8.2 when the muriatic acid was added.
It looks like the TA is somewhere between 40-50. At 4 drops, it turns a reddish-gray color. At 5 drops, it turns bright red. Does this mean that the TA is 40, 45 or 50? If the TA is between 40-50, do I need to increase the TA with some baking soda before starting the SLAM? If so, how high should I increase it, and can I increase the TA without increasing the PH?
It looks like CYA is around 20-30. I can barely make out the dot at 30. At 20, the dot is completely gone. Does this mean that the CYA is probably 30 and I can proceed with the SLAM?
For future reference, is there another CYA and PH test that I can buy that is easier to detect and is also accurate? I can never distinguish between the different red colors on the PH test and I am always second guessing myself regarding the CYA test.
It looks like PH is somewhere between 7.5-8.0, after testing it with my K-2006 comparator (using R-0004) and my TF-100 comparator (using R-0014). When I put 5 drops of R-0004 into the K-2006 comparator, the PH looks like it is 7.8-8.0. When I put 5 drops of R-0014 into the TF-100 comparator, it looks like PH is 7.5. If the PH happens to be 7.8-8.0 like my K-2006 test seems to suggest, will I be able to clear up my pool? Chlorine was only 2 ppms when these tests were taken and pump has been running for 48 straight hours, so I assume these test results are accurate. I've included a picture of my two comparators so you can see what I'm talking about. I looked at the two comparators indoors in a brightly lighted room and came to the same conclusions. I added muriatic acid to the pool to get the PH to these levels but the acid was added 24 hours ago. PH was above 8.2 when the muriatic acid was added.
It looks like the TA is somewhere between 40-50. At 4 drops, it turns a reddish-gray color. At 5 drops, it turns bright red. Does this mean that the TA is 40, 45 or 50? If the TA is between 40-50, do I need to increase the TA with some baking soda before starting the SLAM? If so, how high should I increase it, and can I increase the TA without increasing the PH?
It looks like CYA is around 20-30. I can barely make out the dot at 30. At 20, the dot is completely gone. Does this mean that the CYA is probably 30 and I can proceed with the SLAM?
For future reference, is there another CYA and PH test that I can buy that is easier to detect and is also accurate? I can never distinguish between the different red colors on the PH test and I am always second guessing myself regarding the CYA test.