Cracked Pentair diverter valve

detlion1643

Well-known member
May 14, 2020
75
Erie, PA
So over the weekend we decided to fill the pool again so we could start moving the water around, get the chemicals in, and get our robot started. We've had a couple days in the 60's with sun, and now it's back down in the low 40's. I did not close the valves at all over winter, kept them open with water line below the return and any extra melting of snow or rain could just drain through. However after getting the pump started today, I noticed that one of the valves is cracked, as I noticed a stream of water coming down the piping. I do not know if it it was cracked before turning the pump on, but I did not notice the water line dropping over the past few days.

I have a 2 speed pump and on the high setting the filter doesn't go above 10 psi. I do live in PA, so I opened the lines right below the valve at the union (you can see in the picture) over winter and removed pump/filter. The picture is of the valve on the return line, my skimmer line is just fine and not cracked. I bought these through Amazon on the Pentair Store about 1 1/2 years ago, but only installed them last year, so they were only on for 1 swim season and 1 winter.

I did reach out to Amazon/Pentair to see if they have any sort of warranty (I don't remember seeing one on the page) or can provide any other help/suggestions.

The reason for the thread though is to see if the community has any suggestions to help remedy this. I am trying to avoid cutting the pvc pipes to get the valve out to replace. As I assume that means I would have to cut way back, install additional couplers and straight pieces just to connect a new valve back up? Is it feasible to put pvc cement on the cracks to seal it up or would that stop the whole thing from turning? I did find a replacement handle can be ordered, but I didn't see the cover type piece that cracked or I just couldn't find it.
 

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So over the weekend we decided to fill the pool again so we could start moving the water around, get the chemicals in, and get our robot started. We've had a couple days in the 60's with sun, and now it's back down in the low 40's. I did not close the valves at all over winter, kept them open with water line below the return and any extra melting of snow or rain could just drain through. However after getting the pump started today, I noticed that one of the valves is cracked, as I noticed a stream of water coming down the piping. I do not know if it it was cracked before turning the pump on, but I did not notice the water line dropping over the past few days.

I have a 2 speed pump and on the high setting the filter doesn't go above 10 psi. I do live in PA, so I opened the lines right below the valve at the union (you can see in the picture) over winter and removed pump/filter. The picture is of the valve on the return line, my skimmer line is just fine and not cracked. I bought these through Amazon on the Pentair Store about 1 1/2 years ago, but only installed them last year, so they were only on for 1 swim season and 1 winter.

I did reach out to Amazon/Pentair to see if they have any sort of warranty (I don't remember seeing one on the page) or can provide any other help/suggestions.

The reason for the thread though is to see if the community has any suggestions to help remedy this. I am trying to avoid cutting the pvc pipes to get the valve out to replace. As I assume that means I would have to cut way back, install additional couplers and straight pieces just to connect a new valve back up? Is it feasible to put pvc cement on the cracks to seal it up or would that stop the whole thing from turning? I did find a replacement handle can be ordered, but I didn't see the cover type piece that cracked or I just couldn't find it.
Is it just the top piece that's broken? If the main body isn't cracked I'd think it should be repairable.

Here's a link to a parts list:

If you can figure out what's broken, I'd start searching Google/Amazon/eBay by part # for the pieces that need to be replaced.
 
Wow, you guys are fast! And nice spotting with that diagram, it looks like piece #5 is the right piece.

All I can see is the top piece, I haven't dropped the water line back down to take it apart as it's too cold (low 40's). Besides, the replacement part from the links are $20 and $36. The entire unit is listed at $44 on Amazon. I think it might be better to buy the whole unit and exchange that top piece out, and have the spare parts if anything inside is also broken.
 
Wow, you guys are fast! And nice spotting with that diagram, it looks like piece #5 is the right piece.

All I can see is the top piece, I haven't dropped the water line back down to take it apart as it's too cold (low 40's). Besides, the replacement part from the links are $20 and $36. The entire unit is listed at $44 on Amazon. I think it might be better to buy the whole unit and exchange that top piece out, and have the spare parts if anything inside is also broken.
You can certainly go that way, otherwise Part #5 (noted with o-ring) is only $16 shipped on eBay-
 
A good option is to buy new valves and replace everything except the body. That way you know it is all good. Pull the 8 screws on each, replace the old with the new, make sure the "inlet" on the lid is in the same position as the old one. DO NOT use a power screwdriver or overtighten the screws you can easily crack the body. Also, be sure the lid O ring stays in place. They will sometimes get caught between the lid and body. You will hardly notice as they are rather thin. Tightening the lid with the ring like that will mean you must replace it as it will put a kink in the ring and it won't seal.
 
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