Convert from baqu to chlorine

linen said:
DE for pools, not DE for gardening.

Yes I know....what should I use?

Finally some progress. Probably due to some heavy rains last night that diluted what fine baqua powder is left on the floor of the pool. I vacuumed yesterday and the day before but there are still some spots. But, to my surprise when I went out today to check, the pool was more blue than green and I could actually see the floor. Probably due to the rains, free chlorine is just showing a trace amount and it is sunny today so I will wait to put more in until evening.
 

Attachments

  • photo 1-1.JPG
    photo 1-1.JPG
    20.8 KB · Views: 43
  • photo 2-1.JPG
    photo 2-1.JPG
    21.9 KB · Views: 43
  • photo 3-1.JPG
    photo 3-1.JPG
    23 KB · Views: 43
chances said:
Yes I know....what should I use?
When you use DE in a sand filter, use the type labeled for pool use. With that said, if you are going to use it, do not use DE at least until after you have replaced your sand. When you have a FC loss of less than 1 ppm overnight, then you will need to replace your sand.

What step are you on in the conversion process?

Have you purchased the K-2006 or tf-100?
 
linen said:
chances said:
Yes I know....what should I use?
When you use DE in a sand filter, use the type labeled for pool use. With that said, if you are going to use it, do not use DE at least until after you have replaced your sand. When you have a FC loss of less than 1 ppm overnight, then you will need to replace your sand.

What step are you on in the conversion process?

Have you purchased the K-2006 or tf-100?

I hope I'm in the last phases of adding bleach/chlorine. My test kit is a taylor 1004 but so far all the numbers match the aqua check test strips. I can finally see the bottom of the pool.
 
chances said:
I hope I'm in the last phases of adding bleach/chlorine. My test kit is a taylor 1004 but so far all the numbers match the aqua check test strips. I can finally see the bottom of the pool.
Ignore the strips. It sounds like you are getting there, the next step is the <1 ppm loss of FC overnight. This will be difficult to do without the fas-dpd chlorine test.
 
linen said:
chances said:
I hope I'm in the last phases of adding bleach/chlorine. My test kit is a taylor 1004 but so far all the numbers match the aqua check test strips. I can finally see the bottom of the pool.
Ignore the strips. It sounds like you are getting there, the next step is the <1 ppm loss of FC overnight. This will be difficult to do without the fas-dpd chlorine test.

Is there any difference between baquacil sand filter cleaner and any other sand filter cleaner. I still have a new bottle (the kind you backwash through the sand) but sure don't want to add more baqu goo after all this work.
 
chances said:
Is there any difference between baquacil sand filter cleaner and any other sand filter cleaner. I still have a new bottle (the kind you backwash through the sand) but sure don't want to add more baqu goo after all this work.
I am not familiar with the baq sand cleaner. I would recommend following the tfp process and just replace the sand when your FC loss overnight is <1 ppm.
 
linen said:
chances said:
Is there any difference between baquacil sand filter cleaner and any other sand filter cleaner. I still have a new bottle (the kind you backwash through the sand) but sure don't want to add more baqu goo after all this work.
I am not familiar with the baq sand cleaner. I would recommend following the tfp process and just replace the sand when your FC loss overnight is <1 ppm.

Does anyone else know anything about the baquacil sand cleaner?
 
Does anyone else know anything about the baquacil sand cleaner?

My .02 (for what it is worth) ........

Toss the sand cleaner. How much could it have possibly cost? Is it worth using something that we (the site) do not recommend and then potentially scuttle your work to this point?

The processes given here are not guesses as to what to do, not "sometimes it works - good luck" but clear precise instructions to get out of whatever mess anyone is in. To deviate from these tried and true methods and their long history of success is not the best course of action.

If a certain test kit is recommended, it is because the tests contained therein are necessary to support the methods given. A kit that is "close" generally will not cut it. Folks come here with a problem that they tried to fix themselves / had the pool store work on and were frustrated by the results. All I ask is that you follow the instructions to the letter. that is your guarantee to success.

To spend a little more on a proper test kit, extra sand, new carts, whatever will be a small fraction of what one would pay for magic potions from the pool store.

Sorry to rant a little, and it is not all directed at you. I am happy that you are on the way to getting out of the baqua business, you will be much happier when this process is just a distant memory.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
chances said:
linen said:
Have you gotten to step 7...fc loss of less than 1 ppm overnight?

I'm still losing more than that but guess I'll keep doing what I'm doing unless you have any other suggestions.
Nope keep doing what you are doing. Do you have the fas-dpd chlorine test yet? You really need that one to know if you pass step 7 and can change out your media. Forget about DE for now...that is only good after the conversion is done, and then only if your water is taking a long time to clear.
 
linen said:
chances said:
linen said:
Have you gotten to step 7...fc loss of less than 1 ppm overnight?

I'm still losing more than that but guess I'll keep doing what I'm doing unless you have any other suggestions.
Nope keep doing what you are doing. Do you have the fas-dpd chlorine test yet? You really need that one to know if you pass step 7 and can change out your media. Forget about DE for now...that is only good after the conversion is done, and then only if your water is taking a long time to clear.

What I have just arrived yesterday. It is the fas-dpd Lamotte Color Q digital test kit. Very expensive but I have a hard time matching up colors so thought this was best for me. My readings last night were as follows:
FC 3.02
TC 3.82
PH 6.9
Alk 96
This morning the readings were:
FC 2.43
TC 3.82
PH 6.8
Alk 107

The way I am figuring and could be totally wrong is to subtract the FC from the TC to see exactly how much chlorine is still fighting Baqu or whatever. For the mornings readings that number would be .59. I know it is supposed to be .5 so is still a little high. Is this correct?

After last nights readings I added several pounds of soda ash to raise the Ph but it didn't seem to help. Any advice to get the numbers where they need to be? Pool is looking excellent.
 
I wish you would have asked on here before getting the colorq.

chances said:
fas-dpd Lamotte Color Q digital test kit.
I am not familiar with this test kit and I can't find it on Lamotte's page. Do you have a link. All of the colorq test kits I am aware of have the dpd chlorine test which is only good up to 10 ppm and do not have a fas-dpd (different from dpd) chlorine test. Your results indicate it is the dpd test.

chances said:
Very expensive but I have a hard time matching up colors so thought this was best for me.
In the recommended test kits, the only test that requires color matching is the ph test. All of the rest are a transition from something to something...pink to clear, red to blue, etc.

The cya test on the colorq is not accurate enough and the CH test is problematic over 400 ppm.

I would not trust the OCLT with FC at that low of a level. Get it up to 10 ppm (since you can't read higher) tonight and see if you loose less than 1 ppm overnight so you know if you are at step 7 or not.

chances said:
After last nights readings I added several pounds of soda ash to raise the Ph but it didn't seem to help.
Use Borax to raise the ph to 7.2-7.4 before raising the FC for the overnight OCLT test.
 
linen said:
I wish you would have asked on here before getting the colorq.

chances said:
fas-dpd Lamotte Color Q digital test kit.
I am not familiar with this test kit and I can't find it on Lamotte's page. Do you have a link. All of the colorq test kits I am aware of have the dpd chlorine test which is only good up to 10 ppm and do not have a fas-dpd (different from dpd) chlorine test. Your results indicate it is the dpd test.

chances said:
Very expensive but I have a hard time matching up colors so thought this was best for me.
In the recommended test kits, the only test that requires color matching is the ph test. All of the rest are a transition from something to something...pink to clear, red to blue, etc.

The cya test on the colorq is not accurate enough and the CH test is problematic over 400 ppm.

I would not trust the OCLT with FC at that low of a level. Get it up to 10 ppm (since you can't read higher) tonight and see if you loose less than 1 ppm overnight so you know if you are at step 7 or not.

chances said:
After last nights readings I added several pounds of soda ash to raise the Ph but it didn't seem to help.
Use Borax to raise the ph to 7.2-7.4 before raising the FC for the overnight OCLT test.


Where can I get borax? Walmart maybe? I know you recommend the Taylor 2006 but I read several reviews where people said it was too complicated. If I am unhappy though with the lamotte I can send it back. http://www.radishandlettuce.com/Lamotte ... t-P47.aspx
 
chances said:
Where can I get borax? Walmart maybe?
Yes, look for "20 mule team".

chances said:
I know you recommend the Taylor 2006 but I read several reviews where people said it was too complicated. If I am unhappy though with the lamotte I can send it back. http://www.radishandlettuce.com/Lamotte ... t-P47.aspx
During the conversion you want your FC to be at 15 ppm, the colorq only goes up to 10 ppm, so it i not the appropriate tool for the job. In addition it has other problems, some of which I mentioned above. Online reviews are often off base unless you know something about the reviewer or the reviewer is tied to a reputable site (such as ours). We are here to help with the testing, and before you know it, it will be very simple (it really is simple to start with). If it was me, I would return the colorq (I wonder if they will take it back after the reagents are opened).

chances said:
Also was I figurine right in my earlier post about subtracting the FC from the TC to see where I'm at?
TC=FC-CC
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.