Considering a heater

Scout101

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2015
245
North Kingstown, RI
So, family has me considering a heater for the pool (pool got cold in the past week or so, making swimming suddenly less enjoyable). Wanted to lay out what I've got going on and talk through it, get some opinions, etc.

First off, I have a gas heater, but it's never worked since I bought the house. Had it inspected, something about the gas line not being sized right, or the meter wasn't big enough, etc. About a $3500 fix either way, and the heater itself is probably 8-10 years old, so would have to factor replacing that unit into the cost of any heating fix if I went the gas route.

Pool is also a bit of an odd shape; not exactly kidney shaped, but sorta if the kidney had a third lobe such that there's a bigger shallow end and then a ramp leading to a large, somewhat circular deep end. Long way of saying I don't cover it, as it would be a pain, and a disincentive to go for a quick dip. That and I'd be dragging the cover through the grass, constantly getting stuff in the pool, etc.

The rest of the gear is on the older side, but all holding up ok at the moment. Controlled by a Hayward AquaLogic controller, SWG cell (T-15, likely needs replacement in the spring), big sand filter, older single-speed pump, but spins freely and never had any issues aside from a gasket I replaced last summer. Roughly 26k gallons, as near as I can determine from trial and error with chemicals and their effect on the testing. No spa or water features. Added to that, I've got 2 LED lights in the pool, but currently not working. One died two years ago, but I never use them so no big deal. Turned them on last year and now the breaker trips, so assume the one that died got water inside of it, but haven't investigated further. If the pool was heated, lights and night swims become possible, so another one for the list. Don't have much control over the lights other than on/off, and hit it a bunch of times to change the default color. Would be nicer to be part of the timer system, or have remote control.

SO... Considering a heat pump heater. Figure it'll be cheaper than the combo of new gas heater plus fixing whatever's going on with the gas line. More efficient, will maintain heat rather than having it off and then burning on the weekends to bring up again. Obviously already a spot on my equipment pad if I replace the gas heater and plumb this in, and it's got easy access to the basement where the electrical panels are. Pool sub-panel outside is fed by a 50A breaker; is that enough to feed everything if I add a heat pump? Assuming I need one of the big boys, which looks like the 140k BTU size. Panel would be running that, the pump, and then the controller and lights. Will feel good to start if I'm not already doing major reworking of the house; and my existing AC units are each running off of a 30A breaker, so if the pump should probably be sized for a 20A and then the other stuff isn't drawing much power, I'm probably close but hopefully still good?

From there, can/should I just add the heater, or am I headed down a rabbit hole of replacing other equipment? No idea if this older AquaLogic board plays nicely with a newer heat pump for control or if that will need something newer/smarter for the two to interface better. Am I good with the old single-speed pump, or is that another one I may have to consider getting 'smarter' to work with a newer control board? As mentioned, I've got a SWG, so unsure of the dynamics between the time I need to run the pump to make chlorine and the time I need to run the pump to make heat. Don't want to manually set a SWG percentage and have the heater control how often the pump runs (and vary the number), but don't want to be rigid to the SWG schedule and not have the pump running often enough to keep heat production up. Obviously if the heat is less often than the SWG needs the pump, it'll just sense temp and not run the heater, so not worried about it in that direction. In my current setup (when the SWG worked better), I ran the pump 8 hours a day, in two 4-hour blocks, and the SWG was at 50% output. Kept a nice solid 5ppm FC going.

Heater will obviously have it's own onboard controller, just unsure of whether it talks to the controller I have to demand 'extra' pump time if it needs to make heat, or if I set it to a temp it will just be cold because the timer for the SWG portion is shutting the pump off due to it's own schedule.

And then how bad am I wasting ALL of this if I don't intend to really cover the pool? Looking to really just add mid-june to early July and Mid-August to Mid-September to the 'swimmable' range, it usually sits around 80 or so as-is during the rest of the summer. Would likely use the Heat pump to bump it up a couple of degrees then, but no heavy lifting. It's about mid-70s in the water right now, so a little brisk, which sucks for August. I could get some round, smaller covers and try to do what I can for the surface, or there's the liquid solar cover stuff, although I'm not sure how effective that really is...

Sorry for the long story, but thought I'd throw out all my thoughts and see what people recommended. Don't want to spend a fortune, but if I am going to put money in, want to do it right and get the right stuff and have it last. Help?
 
Two thoughts -

1. You absolutely need a pool cover or else you’ll lose all the heat you add overnight to evaporative cooling. In that situation, the heat pump will never stop running.

2. The heat pump will require its own dedicated 60A service.
 
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That would be disappointing if it requires its own 60A service. Would have thought it was More in line with the ac units, which are about the same size and do essentially the same thing. Both of my units are on dedicated 30A breakers.
Pool only has 50A total going to the box, with pump on a 20 and controller and lights each on a 15. Can’t imagine any of those draw near what they were being fed, so was hoping there was more margin there
 
It may be less depending on the brand and size. Both my AC units have dedicated 50A feeds. Either way, you have to have the heatpump on dedicated circuit because you can’t ever expect to know what the current draw of any individual component will be and it’s too dangerous (fire hazard) to risk running feed wiring at their maximum limit. You can look up the installation specs for most any heat pump unit. But all of them will recommend dedicated feeds.
 
Why not start with figuring out what size gas heater your existing line will handle? If it could support a 175-200K BTU heater that would keep your pool warm. It wouldn't have as quick of a ramp up as a larger gas heater but will meet your needs and be a cheaper upfront alternative than the heat pump. I don’t cover my pool either and am willing to pay the additional gas bill to not have to mess with the cover. I normally leave the heater set on 84 unless I know the pool won’t be used for several days, then I drop it to 80, it can quickly recover from 80. Depending on ambient temperature and sunlight my similar sized heater will raise the water temperature about 1 to 1.5 deg per hour.
 
I have a heat pump and I do like it. However, you will need the solar cover (especially as the weather drops in the upper 60's and lower 70's at night). No cover a lot of temperature drop. The covers will retain heat and also help heat up the pool, but only by a few degree's, which you will get with the sun as well.

I usually increase heat even up to 93-95 with the cover on (keep chlorine levels a little higher) because a lot of times I just do not put the cover back on. The cover is cut in half and separate with the steps or just too large to move around. You will need a dedicated line which is no big deal (60 AMP). Just have the electrician move some circuits.

The heat pump is actually about 25% of the gas cost (for me at least). However, the time it takes without a cover is literally 2X. Then you have to run the pump longer, which make it really about 50% of the gas cost. You also must maintain the temperature. Lastly, if you want to heat your pool up in low 70's degree weather, even a gas heater will struggle, especially if there is wind.

I only use the solar cover as needed, and then hide it away. Depending on the state you live in, there is not other option. I think the reason why the cover does not increase the heat is because the surface water does not move quickly. I will sometimes peel back the skimmer areas to allow faster water pull from the skimmers. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
What are the power requirements for those units from the data plate?
3 Ton units, and I can only find a newer version of the unit with a quick search, but calling for minimum 20.1A service, compressor rated load of 15.2A. Both of mine are on independent 30A breakers.

But you're right, they seem to want more for the heat pump. Hayward is calling for 50A breaker for the 140k btu model, it seems.
 
Why not start with figuring out what size gas heater your existing line will handle? If it could support a 175-200K BTU heater that would keep your pool warm. It wouldn't have as quick of a ramp up as a larger gas heater but will meet your needs and be a cheaper upfront alternative than the heat pump. I don’t cover my pool either and am willing to pay the additional gas bill to not have to mess with the cover. I normally leave the heater set on 84 unless I know the pool won’t be used for several days, then I drop it to 80, it can quickly recover from 80. Depending on ambient temperature and sunlight my similar sized heater will raise the water temperature about 1 to 1.5 deg per hour.

This is a fair point, and my usage of the pool would probably fall more towards weekends rather than every day anyway, so maybe gas heater in smaller range would work. Unfortunately I'm working off of data the previous homeowner got during an inspection I wasn't around for, so don't have better details about the exact problem. I know the pool guy has tried to get it going and failed a few times, so definitely not up to par somewhere, along with annecdotal stories about how it 'never worked right', although not sure why no one went back to the installer on that point if that was true. Either way, heater itself is pretty old at this point any likely not viable whether everything else was good or not, so looking at replacing that no matter what I did.

Valid point that it's possible a smaller one would hold up with the available gas pressure and not have to rework anything, that could be something that saves 3-4k in costs. Unfortunately, it seems like the 300k btu model I have is sized pretty well for the pool, so going smaller may save me the one-time cost, but it will take a lot longer to get 26k gallons up to temp, so suspect I'll end up paying more in the long run.

it's been 3 years since I've even had anyone try the heater, may need to have someone at least walk through it with me and show me where the issue is so I can better focus the fix. Suspect the issue is with the gas service to the house / meter, as i've got 1.25" pipe running from near where the gas comes into the house all the way to the heater (an unfortunately long distance, as it's on opposite side of the house from the gas meter). Random internet stuff seems to think that's ok, as if it's roughly 100' feet of pipe, and cu. ft. gas per hour demand should be about 272, 1.25" pipe can handle 400. So assuming I don't have enough volume or pressure upstream to feed the heater...
 
Call the gas company and get their opinion. If it's a gas flow issue, ie, not enough volume flow to the heater, then the gas company may be able to hook up that 1.5" line to the high pressure side of the meter and then you'd need a properly sized regulator at the equipment pad. Gas configurations can either be high pressure (~2psi) small diameter lines OR low pressure (7-14 "WC) large diameter gas lines. You may need to get the gas plumbing reconfigured but that is all doable. An appropriately trained gas plumber should be able to at least inspect your setup and give you an estimate for what it will cost to get it running correctly.

A 300 kBTU/hr heater needs a minimum gas flow of 300 cu ft per hour (give or take). SO if you have other gas appliances in the home and this was not factored into the installation of the heater, your meter may not be able to supply the given volumetric flow rate. When we installed our gas heater (400kBTU/hr), the PB had to run over 150ft of 2" gas line to get the correct feed rate AND the gas company had to upgrade my residential meter to the next size up. Most standard residential gas installations use very small meters because most home appliances use fairly low flow rates. Pool heaters are HUGE gas consumers and one pool heater can easily outsize all of your other appliances by a factor of two or three.
 
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3 Ton units, and I can only find a newer version of the unit with a quick search, but calling for minimum 20.1A service, compressor rated load of 15.2A. Both of mine are on independent 30A breakers.
A ton is the cooling capacity of an air conditioning system. One ton is equal to the amount of heat required (288,000 Btu) to melt one ton of ice in a 24-hour period. This began back in the days when people would buy ice to cool things. Today, when they hear that their AC is 3 tons, many people think that it’s the weight of the unit. It’s an anachronistic term that probably needs to be retired. A one-ton air conditioner is rated at 12,000 Btu per hour (288,000/24). The amount of heat required to melt one pound of ice from solid to liquid is called the Latent Heat of Fusion. The Latent Heat of Fusion for water ice is 143 btu per pound. For 2,000 lbs, it takes 286,000 btu to melt. 286,000 btu per 24 hours is 11,917 btu/hr. Rounded off, one ton of cooling is equal to 12,000 btu per hour.

A three ton unit is 36,000 btu/hr.

140,000 btu/hr divided by 36,000 btu/hr = 3.888.

So, the 140 k btu/hr heat pump is about 3.9 times the power.

140 k btu/hr is 11.7 tons.
 
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And then, like usual when I think about this, we quickly start getting nights in the 60s and no one wants to swim anyway. Still like the idea of getting a functioning heater, just not sure it’s worth the 2 weeks max on either end I’m really extending things...
 
Would it help in the summer?? My pool stays warm all summer from the ambient heat but I imagine East coast pools probably wouldn’t get too warm if they had any shade....you guys simply don’t get hot enough that far north.
 
So, I get direct sun on the pool, so it's not normally much of a problem. I don't heat or cover it at the moment, and it usually sits 80-82, sometimes a little hotter in the dead of summer. So during the summer itself, heater may not run much. I guess where I'd see the use is late June-early July when it's not quite warm enough yet and I could buy a couple weeks there, and then about the 3rd week of August usually through probably first week of September when it's still warm enough to consider swimming. Outside of that, not trying to have an 85 degree pool in April or anything.

Temps dropped off quickly this year, getting low 60s overnight and the pool's down to 70. Basically done swimming for the year.

Not sure it's worth the cost, or the rabbit hole of other upgrades I'd end up making, but still considering it as it would be nice, and it's definitely annoying when it dips below 80 and it's mid-August and swimming season.
 
I think a gas heater would be what you want. You use it when you need it and it will heat the water up faster. Sure, it will cost money to spot heat a pool for a day and then let it all dissipate away but that’s the luxury part of having the heater - you can spend the money to have that one-off fun swim day or to offset unseasonal weather. If you don’t have the heater, then you’re at the mercy of Mother Nature.
 
Also, what do you heat your house with? Fuel oil and a furnace?

Rheem, at one point, sold a heat-exchanger kit that allowed a homeowner to tap into their water heater coil and use their furnace to send heat to a pool water loop. Not sure if that’s an option but it looked neat.
 
If you get a heater, definitely get a gas heater, but try covering the pool. I have a Gulfstream Heat Pump. The pool water will heat up real quick with a gas heater, and at it takes twice as long with a heat pump. Right now, it is 75 degrees, Wind at 7 mph, with 88% humidity outside with and the heater is running, but I did not have the cover on last night. The water coming out of the returns is a lot warmer than the pool water, so the heat pump works great in a situation like this. Just put in on right now to cover most of the pool, and skimmer areas exposed. The water temperature is right now at 90 degree's. The key to anything is retaining heat at night. My heat pump works well, but a gas heater would have been better.

Based on total cost, it appears that the heat pump is literally 25%-35% of the cost of gas. I actually have an idea on how long the heater runs as it is outside my home office, and then go back and calculate the cost of heating the pool, and in June and July, we are looking at around $50-$75 (without the solar cover). Come May and September, between $125-$150. The average is around $100 per month. The good part is that when electric rates are higher, the heat pump runs a lot less. When they are lower, the heat pump runs longer.

When we had not heater, basically the summer was cut real short. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
A ton is the cooling capacity of an air conditioning system. One ton is equal to the amount of heat required (288,000 Btu) to melt one ton of ice in a 24-hour period. This began back in the days when people would buy ice to cool things. Today, when they hear that their AC is 3 tons, many people think that it’s the weight of the unit. It’s an anachronistic term that probably needs to be retired. A one-ton air conditioner is rated at 12,000 Btu per hour (288,000/24). The amount of heat required to melt one pound of ice from solid to liquid is called the Latent Heat of Fusion. The Latent Heat of Fusion for water ice is 143 btu per pound. For 2,000 lbs, it takes 286,000 btu to melt. 286,000 btu per 24 hours is 11,917 btu/hr. Rounded off, one ton of cooling is equal to 12,000 btu per hour.

A three ton unit is 36,000 btu/hr.

140,000 btu/hr divided by 36,000 btu/hr = 3.888.

So, the 140 k btu/hr heat pump is about 3.9 times the power.

140 k btu/hr is 11.7 tons.
I always wondered what that meant. I just went by bigger is better when I had a 2 replaced by a 2-1/2 upstairs per the suggestion of the AC company.
Next question how would anyone know how much their house weighs 🧐
 
Great information. Only thing I know is the manufacturer stated that the AMP draw is around 25.9. I converted this to KWh, and multiply by the rates per month from the electric bill to have some kind of idea. There will be no exact way of knowing, but an approximate is fine by me.
 

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