condensation on my new heater's gas line

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bad144

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Jan 21, 2015
29
Los Angeles, CA
Hi, I just got a new raypak avia heater installed. Model P-R404A-EN-C. I'm noticing that there is a lot of condensate drip on the gas line that passes under the vent (as the gas line is right next to the exhaust vent). I assume this is going to be a problem... This is an outdoor install with just the factory vent.

I think the question is: With the gas line coming from the front left of the unit, how does one route the gas lines so as to not cause the vent to blow hot air on the gas pipe and thus make it constantly wet with condensation?
 
ajw22 said:
What is your pool water temperature when you begin running the heater?

Trying to heat water that is below about 65F will create condensate...

Heater Condensation - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
The water temp started at about 54, but now the water is 68 and the gas pipe is still dripping with condensation. I had wiped everything dry half way through has well.
Note it is the gas pipe with condensation not anything in contact with the water. Humidity is about 50%.
 
JamesW said:
Just avoid going over or under the vent.

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Easier said than done. The gas line comes out of the concrete in front of the heater, see pics. I'm thinking the most practical would be for the vent to be extended to vent further away from the unit.
 

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That installation is both incorrect and dangerous. The air coming out of the vent is hot and should not be blowing on the pipe like that. The entire line should have been routed with a few 90° elbows to move it away from the vent to the left of the heater. And the drip leg isn’t done right either.

Get a qualified gas plumber to come and redo the entire line from the larger diameter supply pipe to the heater.
 
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bad144 said:
Note it is the gas pipe with condensation not anything in contact with the water. Humidity is about 50%.
Click to expand...
The combustion produces water, so that is unavoidable.

The ground is excessively wet and it looks like it has been wet for a long time.

It looks like something has been leaking for a long time.

I would reroute the gas line as JN suggested.

There is a bonding lug on the heater and if something comes with a bond lug, bond it.

1704508576391.png
 
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JoyfulNoise said:
That installation is both incorrect and dangerous. The air coming out of the vent is hot and should not be blowing on the pipe like that. The entire line should have been routed with a few 90° elbows to move it away from the vent to the left of the heater. And the drip leg isn’t done right either.

Get a qualified gas plumber to come and redo the entire line from the larger diameter supply pipe to the heater.
Click to expand...
So with a couple elbows, moved say 1 foot further to the left of the heater, almost into the landscaping? What is wrong with the drip leg (I don't know gas plumbing). Previous heater had no drip leg at all so this was just added.
 
JamesW said:
The combustion produces water, so that is unavoidable.

The ground is excessively wet and it looks like it has been wet for a long time.

It looks like something has been leaking for a long time.

I would reroute the gas line as JN suggested.

There is a bonding lug on the heater and if something comes with a bond lug, bond it.
Click to expand...
Yes, aware that combustion produces water, but this seems to be condensation emanating with contact to the cold gas pipe not condensation drip from just combustion itself. It's not as if there's water on other surfaces such as the side of the heater. The Previous heater did not produce any condensation around its vent.
No, has certainly not been leaking for a long time, was only turned on today. All that moisture is from a few hours of run time. Previous jandy heater vented from the top and that left side was always dry.
Yes, getting the bonding done, installer just didn't have the extension wire for that today.
 
bad144 said:
So with a couple elbows, moved say 1 foot further to the left of the heater, almost into the landscaping? What is wrong with the drip leg (I don't know gas plumbing). Previous heater had no drip leg at all so this was just added.
Click to expand...

Look at Post #7 - @JamesW posted an image of the correct way to do a drip leg. Many plumbers will roll their eyes at drip legs but gas supplies can have water vapor and dust in them. The gas control valve in the heater has some very delicate internal components with precisely finished surfaces to create a proper seal. A speck of dust can damage or impede a proper seal and water vapor can corrode internal parts. Drip legs, when properly installed, help mitigate those issues.

You’ve already stated that your previous heater was a top venting model. In that case, a gas line close to the cabinet wouldn’t be an issue. The Raypak is a completely different configuration so it requires the gas line to be moved. The installers don’t know gas plumbing or they wouldn’t have done what they did. You’re paying them to do the job right and without causing additional danger. They need to fix their installation and READ THE DANG MANUAL which has ample pictures and description of how to do the install correctly.

You are also trying to heat very cold pool water. Cold water causes A LOT of combustion condensation. Take some pH paper and put it in the condensate that’s all over the place and you will see how acidic it is (pH is generally less than 4 and more often as low as 2). You don’t want a lot of combustion condensation or else you will rot out the heat exchanger very quickly.
 
JoyfulNoise said:
Look at Post #7 - @JamesW posted an image of the correct way to do a drip leg. Many plumbers will roll their eyes at drip legs but gas supplies can have water vapor and dust in them. The gas control valve in the heater has some very delicate internal components with precisely finished surfaces to create a proper seal. A speck of dust can damage or impede a proper seal and water vapor can corrode internal parts. Drip legs, when properly installed, help mitigate those issues.

You’ve already stated that your previous heater was a top venting model. In that case, a gas line close to the cabinet wouldn’t be an issue. The Raypak is a completely different configuration so it requires the gas line to be moved. The installers don’t know gas plumbing or they wouldn’t have done what they did. You’re paying them to do the job right and without causing additional danger. They need to fix their installation and READ THE DANG MANUAL which has ample pictures and description of how to do the install correctly.

You are also trying to heat very cold pool water. Cold water causes A LOT of combustion condensation. Take some pH paper and put it in the condensate that’s all over the place and you will see how acidic it is (pH is generally less than 4 and more often as low as 2). You don’t want a lot of combustion condensation or else you will rot out the heat exchanger very quickly.
Click to expand...
Yes, I already saw that picture from reading the raypak manual. It does not detail a drip leg materially differently from my pics as far as I can tell.
The condensation is not "all over the place" it's puddling on my slab under the gas pipe. I put a pan under the gas pipes and now the slab is almost all dried up.
The exhaust from the heater certainly is high humidity...
 

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