Let's dispel this bit of pool industry nonsense.
Your pH should be adjusted to a value where it is the most stable (over time), not to a specific pH value. This stable pH value depends a lot on TA, aeration & outgassing of CO2 and evaporation. There is no "right" pH value. Anything between 7.2-7.8 is perfectly acceptable.
So, based on where I keep my TA, my pool pH tends to stabilize at 7.7. It will hang at that number for days on end, even during the hot swim season, and not budge. I only adjust it downwards when it goes up to 8 and then I only add enough acid to bring it down to 7.6. Going any lower than that is a waste of acid and time as my pH will not stay artificially low. Another persons pool might hang down at 7.4 and be stable. For both pools, those pH values are totally acceptable.
The industry tends to push a myth that you need to have an exact pH and TA number with the TA number being excessively high (80-120ppm) and this leads to constantly increasing pH. Pool owners then try to over correct by adding excessive amounts of acid to get to some magical pH value (like 7.4) which forces the pH too low and actually drives it back up faster. Then the TA gets consumed from the excessive acid use and the entire cycle repeats itself. The pool owner is then left on a yo-yo of constantly chasing pH while adding acid and baking soda.
Post your numbers in a few days and we'll keep you off the pH roller coaster.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
when you tell someone you put *gasp* bleach in your pool! We have all learned to say chlorine as that does not produce as much a reaction! Forget about the fact it is the same thing!!!!!!!
)
Now just let that FC drift back down on its own. Once it gets below 10, you can test your pH (and anything else needed) and go from there. Always watch your FC/CYA relationship to make sure they match and you'll be fine. Have a great day and swimming season.
