Complete IG Vinyl Pool Rebuilt

drb said:
Concrete work has started. There is mostly some surface rust with heavier rust in corner. I guess now I will have to get the 2' radius corners. This rust isn't to serrious to stop the project, is it? I haven't talked to PB yet but I know he is putting foam on the walls. Is there any other treatment I should insist on to treat the rust. Also, should this make me not want toput a SWG in this pools? Pics attached. The rust on bottom of corner is just wet not really rusted as bad as it seems

Thanks for any help
Daren


I think you should make an attempt at that rust. Nothing rusty is good in the long run. I've done quite a bit of this type of stuff on large metal structures in all sorts of environments with fairly favorable results.

What you need:
Palm sander or larger rotary type sander
wire brush
extension cord
plenty of 80 grit sand paper for the sander
Bunch of rags
Dust mask
safety glasses
gloves
couple cans of acetone
several cans of zinc rich gold galvanizing spray. Check the zinc content in the cold gal and get the highest concentrate of zinc that you can find.

Start by using the wire brush and brush off as much of the heavy accumulations of rust as you can
Use the sander and sand the rust down to metal. It's important that you get all of the rust if at all possible.

Use rags to brush off the loose sanding dust
wipe down the area with acetone until absolutely clean.
spray the area with a good couple of coats of the cold galvanizing (its similar to spray paint). Don't skimp on it either.

What you don't want to do, is let any sanded areas sit overnight. The rust will start right back up even though you may not be able to see it, it will still be there and bite you at the end of the day. Sand, clean and coat all in one whack. Don't give the rust a chance to come back, (Sort of like SLAMMING some algae in your pool!)

After applying the cold galvanizing, let it cure at least a couple of days. The galvanizing compound has solvents in it that need to evaporate out before putting anything over it. Especially a pool liner. A good 48 hours of cure time and you should be safe.

good luck, your remodel is looking good!
 
Pool deck got poured today. This was poured late morning so the concrete should [I hope] lighten up quite a bit. The border will be stained dark brown later. As long as weather holds patio should be pored on Monday.
 
This built is taking longer than expected and snow will be flying soon. I am having SWCG put in, at this late in year to I bother to put salt in and try to balance or do I just close pool and to it next spring?

Thanks
Daren
 
I think I would just fill it to where you want it to be for the winter and use bleach to get your FC where you want it for closing. Use a pump in the pool to circulate the water so you won't need to blow out any of the lines. In the spring, add the salt and CYA and finish filling the pool. Getting the salt right is easy. Just check the level you have and then calculate how many pounds you need based need based on your pool volume and target. You're going to need to mess with your SWCG settings when it gets warmer anyway.
 
Use a pump in the pool to circulate the water so you won't need to blow out any of the lines.

Here in Buffalo NY we have long cold winters. I never heard of anyone running thier equipment all winter up here, plus I would hate to pay electric and the additonal wear and tear on the pumps.
 
drb said:
Use a pump in the pool to circulate the water so you won't need to blow out any of the lines.

Here in Buffalo NY we have long cold winters. I never heard of anyone running thier equipment all winter up here, plus I would hate to pay electric and the additonal wear and tear on the pumps.
Sorry for any confusion - Believe me, I am well aware of Buffalo's winters. I graduated from UB in 1988, so I was able to experience the Blizzard of 1985 first hand.

I meant hang a sump pump in the pool temporarily to mix the chlorine in with the pool water when you first dose it.
 
I meant hang a sump pump in the pool temporarily to mix the chlorine in with the pool water when you first dose it.

I will want to test everything so I will use the system to mix the closing chemicals, that is if it this project ever gets done. Bad weather has slowed very thing down.Tomorrow the patio is suppose to be poured and I am hoping the pool gets finished by next week.

Here is a pic of the concrete after after staining. This pic is before sealing which did darken it a tad.
 

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No were close to stress-free yet. It's getting cold here and I am afraid the lines will freeze. I am waiting for electrician to wire main pump, swcg, and heat pump. I can't seem to get an electrician here. They quote the job and then don't show up. I went tru [4] so far. PB suppose to close sometime next week when the safety cover comes in. I think if the pumps are running and water circulating the lines shouldn't freeze.

Temps are to drop to high twenties on Monday, high 45, then high of 36 rest of week and lows 25-30. Do you think the lines need to be blown out now if pumps are not running? If pumps are running I can let it go until the cover comes in?

Tomorrow I will try to hook pump up to sub-panel by itself just to get it going.

Any thoughts advice appreciated.
Thanks
Daren
 
It takes a long period of cold to freeze pipes buried in the ground, and with those temps if the water is moving it should be ok.

Frustrating not being able to get the wiring done. Are the lines above ground empty? If the main pump isn't hooked up they probably are. If not, you should try to get them emptied.
 
I am in NY so labor rates are high but here are the prices;

Pool deck [614 SF] with old deck removed $5833, color concrete with scallops $775, stained border $1050, cantilever coping $1600. I also am having a 450SF concrete patio to be replaced with stamped color concrete @ $4725.

Daren
 
Looks great! Too bad you can't ice skate on these things...but anyway they are kinda small for hockey except for toddlers. And besides you only put a goal on one end!
 
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