Cloudy Water

[Yb322]

Gday All

I had an issue a few weeks back, it was prior to Christmas. We had a storm and we had around 150 mm of rain in a couple of hours. The next day the pool started to turn a little green.

I ended up doing a shock, and after some effort and advice from the local shop was able to get the water back clear. The issue I am having at the moment it is now looking cloudy. The pool shop as indicated that it is just getting dirty from the roadworks nearby. And to drop 200ml of clarifier in every month.

I put the clarifier in last week and it did get clearer, the filter cartridge was pretty dirty after this and the water did look clearer, but a week later and it is starting to cloud up again. I am currently cleaning the filter cartridge every couple of days, it always looks pretty dirty. I think it still has a slight green appearance when cleaning the cartridge.

I am not sure on the clarifier advice, and thought I would post here for further advice.

Some details on the pool:

Location Hunter Valley, NSW Australia
Current Temperature Forecast 32 - 35C
60,000 Litre (I think 15850 Gallon, but not sure? Sorry am an Aussie )
In Ground Fibreglass
Zodiac TRi Chlorinator
Davey SLL200-0 pump
EcoPure 150sqft Cartridge Filter (Model Q2204MN)

Test from today:
TC 4
FC 4
PH 7.7
TA 140
CYA 80

This was done from test strips, the test kits recommended on this site are near impossible to get in Australia.

Any advice is appreciated, not sure I have got the best advice with the clarifier solution from the local shop.

Please let me know if I have missed any info, still new to pool life, only my second season.

 

[Texas Splash]

Hello and welcome to TFP! It's almost certain your original issue with the green to cloudiness was algae. For that, we follow the SLAM Process. Your gut feeling about the clarifier was correct. It won't do anything for algae and may have ruined your cart filter. Test strips are simply horrible.

So what now? You need a proper test kit. In your area, look into Clear Choice Labs as they have an equivalent to the Taylor K-2006C. Once you get that test kit, you'll be able to handle the situation properly. @AUSpool and @aussieta may be able to give you additional tips locally.

Be sure to visit our Pool Care Basics and enjoy the forum.

 

[Yb322]

Hello and welcome to TFP! It's almost certain your original issue with the green to cloudiness was algae. For that, we follow the SLAM Process. Your gut feeling about the clarifier was correct. It won't do anything for algae and may have ruined your cart filter. Test strips are simply horrible.

So what now? You need a proper test kit. In your area, look into Clear Choice Labs as they have an equivalent to the Taylor K-2006C. Once you get that test kit, you'll be able to handle the situation properly. @AUSpool and @aussieta may be able to give you additional tips locally.

Be sure to visit our Pool Care Basics and enjoy the forum.

Cheers mate, I had been doing some reading this afternoon and had come across the Clear Choice Labs kit. Will have a look at this one.

Appreciate you taking the time to reply.

 

[AUSpool]

Geday and welcome to TFP.

Good on you for self testing but those strips really aren’t that good. The kit from CCL is really the best value in AU. It has a FAS/DPD kit for FC and a turbidity test for CyA. FC and CyA needs to be managed as a ratio. I keep my FC at 10% of my CyA and have done for over 10 years. A pool shop will tell you that a FC of 4ppm is on the high side but with a CyA of 80ppm the amount of available active FC is low. Low enough for an algae bloom to stay active enough to create the cloudy water. Allowing for the accuracy of the test strips you could actually have a FC of 2ppm and CyA of 100ppm which as a ratio is only 2%.

Heavy rain dilutes the FC and lets the algae take hold. Adding liquid chlorine and raising the FC the day after rain would have been the best solution and good to know for next time. It takes a while for a chlorinator to recover from that kind of dilution and it would not be performing at its best due to the salt dilution. A one off shock treatment is never enough which is why TFP recommends the
SLAM Process process.

I would stop using the clarifier, get a decent test kit with the FAS/DPD, some pool chlorine and run the SLAM Process. Once clear keep your FC at 10% of your CyA which gives you a bit of a buffer against those heavy rains and easier for the chlorinator to catch up.

 

[aussieta]

i think auspool has pretty much covered it
i still like my taylor even though it is a little more expensive
usa price, and make sure it is the 2006C as the 2006 is too small
and order the salt test too

Taylor FAS DPD Test Kit Chlorine - SERVICE SIZE K-2006C

Taylor FAS DPD Test Kit Chlorine - SERVICE SIZE K-2006C, Pool Vac Parts stocks Taylor FAS DPD Service Size Test Kit Chlorine. Part Number: K-2006C

www.poolvacparts.com

Taylor Salt Drop Test Kit K-1766

Taylor Salt Drop Test Kit K-1766, Pool Vac stocks the Salt Drop Test Kit K-1766 manufactured by Taylor to help you and your pool professional service for the maintenance of your

www.poolvacparts.com

 

[AUSpool]

i think auspool has pretty much covered it
i still like my taylor even though it is a little more expensive
usa price, and make sure it is the 2006C as the 2006 is too small
and order the salt test too

Taylor FAS DPD Test Kit Chlorine - SERVICE SIZE K-2006C

Taylor FAS DPD Test Kit Chlorine - SERVICE SIZE K-2006C, Pool Vac Parts stocks Taylor FAS DPD Service Size Test Kit Chlorine. Part Number: K-2006C

www.poolvacparts.com

Taylor Salt Drop Test Kit K-1766

Taylor Salt Drop Test Kit K-1766, Pool Vac stocks the Salt Drop Test Kit K-1766 manufactured by Taylor to help you and your pool professional service for the maintenance of your

www.poolvacparts.com

I use the K2006C also. My first one came poolvacparts but my current one came from MrPoolman in AU, drop shipped from Taylor, direct from the US. I have used gear from CCL and they have a mag stirrer which I think is an absolute must.

Taylor Pool Test Kit Complete Service K-2006C

Taylor Pool Test Kit Complete Service K-2006C This complete DPD test kit is designed for service techs, commercial pool operators and health department officials. The kit uses 2 oz. reagents with titrants to improve accuracy, includes a printed color comparator, waterproof instructions...

mrpoolman.com.au

Magnetic Stirrer – SmartStir – Clear Choice Labs

 

[Yb322]

Thanks everyone for the info, much appreciated.

Will let you know how it goes

 

[Yb322]

G'day again everyone.

Test kit arrived today, so posting some more accurate numbers.

FC 3.5
CC 0.5
PH 7.8
TA 125
CH 150
CYA 40

I can see the bottom of the pool, however it is a little cloudy, I have seen it clearer. Would you recommend I start a SLAM process to try and clear it up?

Thanks

 

[aussieta]

i would do the slam process
then it should be easier moving forward

 

[wireform]

Before you slam I'd do a OCLT just to know how bad it is or not. Then a slam will be in order.

 

[Yb322]

Thanks for the advice. I will do the OCLT, see what it is before the sun is up in the morning, and then start the SLAM process.

 

[AUSpool]

Yeh, I would recommend a slam too. After the OCLT adjust your pH into the low 7’s, 7.4-7.3. Once you’re at slam level the pH test becomes invalid. Use poolMath or the old poolmath webpage (link at the bottom of the page) to calculate your volumes required.
with a CyA of 40ppm you SLAM level is 16ppm FC.

 

[Yb322]

I am currently 24 hours into the SLAM process. The pool is already clearer than I have seen it in weeks. It certainly still has some way to go, but I can see progress.

Thanks to everyone here for your help. I will update how it goes when I complete it.

 

[AUSpool]

Well done. Once you’re finished with the SLAM and your water is nice and clear, maintain your FC at 10% of your CyA. You can go off the
FC/CYA Levels chart but I find 10% gives a nice buffer against heavy rains. The higher your CyA is the more FC is protected from UV loss. TFP recommends 60-90ppm CyA for SWG pools but 80-90ppm is in that scary, too close to 100ppm, for me so I bump my CyA up to 70ppm over summer and keep my FC at 7ppm. I run at 50ppm CyA and 5ppm over winter. If 70ppm seems a bit high at first feel free to start at 50&5ppm or 60&6ppm.

As a bonus, when CyA is used the active form of FC is more dependant on the CyA concentration than pH. This means that we can now comfortably run a pool at a pH of 7.8 which uses less acid, less often. Many owners actually find that the pH rise slows dramatically when running a total alkalinity, TA, in the 60-80ppm range. I actually reduce my TA sometimes due to the TA in my tap water. These tips are kind of the fundamentals of TFP but unfortunately not taught in the aussie cert3 of pool maintenance. You have to ignore some of the levels recommended by the pool stores.

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Yb322]

Well done. Once you’re finished with the SLAM and your water is nice and clear, maintain your FC at 10% of your CyA. You can go off the
FC/CYA Levels chart but I find 10% gives a nice buffer against heavy rains. The higher your CyA is the more FC is protected from UV loss. TFP recommends 60-90ppm CyA for SWG pools but 80-90ppm is in that scary, too close to 100ppm, for me so I bump my CyA up to 70ppm over summer and keep my FC at 7ppm. I run at 50ppm CyA and 5ppm over winter. If 70ppm seems a bit high at first feel free to start at 50&5ppm or 60&6ppm.

Thanks for the info. It's like you read my mind, I was pondering this morning about levels over winter.

I put a blanket on it last winter to slow the evaporation down. Would you recommend covering over winter?

I was thinking CYA of 60 and FC 6.

Once again thanks for the advice. Feel like there is finally a light at the end of the tunnel

 

[aussieta]

covers dont allow water to breathe
so maybe remove for 1 day every 3 days
my opinion on frequency only, not written anywhere
couple of hours every day would be better, but who has time for that

 

[AUSpool]

Cover on or cover off, I don’t know. I wouldn’t rush out to buy one for suggested water or chemical savings. I had to calculate the cost of water used doing a few drain and refills to adjust salt levels and was surprised that it was only $6. The savings suggested by the cover manufacturers and suppliers are grossly over estimated.

Covers don’t allow the water to vent and will shield it from UV. They will prevent CO2 from out gassing which stabilises pH rise. Oxidation of organics produces chloramines that cannot effectively vent with a cover on. With the CyA maintained at 50ppm over winter UV loss of FC is not really an issue. UV will produce short lived free radicals that aid in sanitation and oxidation which won’t occur with a cover on.

But if you already have a cover the cost is not an issue and it seems a bit of a waste not to use it. I did read a response from one of our experts who said that because everything slows down with cold water the use of a cover is not going to affect much either way. I would be a cautious as the water first starts to cool down, it’s easy to let a chlorinator overdrive the FC levels. And this is the opposite when it starts to warm up again.

And its good practice to keep a record of all your tests including dates, chlorinator settings and what and how much is added.

 

[Yb322]

Pool is now looking clear. I did a test this morning and CC is 0. I will do a OCLT tomorrow morning and see where that sits.

 

[wireform]

Even with a good OCLT and a cc of "0" I'd still take the slam an extra day for extra good measure.

 

[Yb322]

Thanks for your help everyone, really appreciate it.

Passed OCLT and ran slam for extra day. My pool is looking clearer than I have ever seen it.

I will add some stabiliser this afternoon to bring the CYA up from 40 and maintain at 70 and FC at 7.

With the next few days temperature expected to be over 40C the pool will certainly get a workout