Cloudy Pool

[jblizzle]

The tablets last a LONG time in the bucket and you can use them while on vacation/etc ... you just have to KNOW that your CYA will go up ... so those could be useful in the next few years. Not sure what to do about the Nature 2.

Any FC is always fighting algae, the recommended shock level is to be positive that you stay ahead of its growth. Getting a little low may not hurt, but it certainly is not helping.

The sun helps break down the CCs and since you still show them, I would think leaving the cover off is best.

But, I think you should be OK to turn the heater on ... although you should not swim with FC > shock value.

 

[foosboy2]

Well said about the $70. I also just got done doing a search and reading about the Nature 2 Express and it is interesting. I also noticed during the first year of my pool that the Nature 2 Express was not installed but the then installed during the begining season of the 2nd year and during the second year I really noticed some orange metal stains. I think orange metal stains are iron. I am on a well and thought it was that but now I am wondering if the Nature 2 Express contributed.

I still have last years Nature 2 Express cartridge on there. What do I do about that? Do I take it off and find some sort of a plug to fill in its place so that it just flows past? Do they sell plugs for that?

Thank you for the advice about the heater and solar cover and the chlorine pucks. I will mainly use liquid chlorine.

Is the green tinge probably just from the algae or is it too soon to even speculate and that my wife is right and there is no difference.

Mitch

 

[jblizzle]

I think a green tinge can also be due to copper (or some metal) ... compliments of your Nature 2.

See here:
green-water-after-shock-t44335.html#p361951

 

[ultra800_96]

Keep up the fight Mitch. With just liquid chlorine of course. The ways taught here do work. Proven time, time & time again. Another way to look at the situation & the 12 gallons of chlorine. At our most local Menards, I spent 3.99 each for a gallon. That's $48 for your 12 gallons. Sincerely, how much, including, or excluding the $70 nature 2 spent would you have spent at the pool store trying their fixes & most likely still in the same boat? Pool store 2 said even a new filter. How's that for expense? This advice & simple system works. We have no money stake in your pool or whatever you put in it to clear it. The process preached here works! You are fighting organics. The cc's may go up & down, eventually just down and they will go away. Not trying to be smart or sarcastic, I've seen first hand along with thousands of others that it works. Keep the faith! As Linen suggested earlier, maybe try shooting for a higher FC value. That will help with the sun during the day, & maybe speed things up.

Do keep posting with results or questions. We want to see your pool clear & clean.

 

[Smykowski]

Gordon and I seem to be on the same page on a lot of topics

I'm going to reiterate because it's important. If your shock level is 12ppm, that should be your minimum. Target 13 or 14, so that when you re-dose, you're ever not going below 12. Stay ahead of the algae, and don't prolong the fight.

 

[foosboy2]

I'm all in and on board. I am going to keep the FC above 14 and I am not going to use the Nature 2 Express. I still need advice about what to do with the Nature 2 Express cartridge that is plugged in from last year.

Also, should I add some Metal Magic for the "green tinge"? I think I should wait until I meet the 3 criteria but I wanted some experts opinion.

This morning at 7, I measured 15 FC and 2 CC and wife just measured at 9:50am 16 FC , 1.5CC, 7.8 ph and 20 CYA. Should we add some acid to reduce the ph?

Also, wondered about disposal of test results in my sink with the water running. I have a septic tank and have had septic issues in the past. Is this okay for my system because it is such a small amount? Does anyone have information or an opinion regarding that subject?

Kind Regards,
Mitch

 

[gboulton]

I'm all in and on board.

Really? Then why...

Also, should I add some Metal Magic for the "green tinge"?

:lol:

Stop being so eager to pour "stuff" into your pool, man.

Chlorine, Chlorine, more Chlorine, and then Chlorine.

Nothing
But
Chlorine

You can deal with the other things later.

The only exception MIGHT be if your pH just climbs to insanely high, equipment/pool damaging levels, it might be worth bringing it down while shocking.

But it ain't there yet, and ain't likely to get there.

So...

Nothing
But
Chlorine

When the pool is sparkling, the CC is 0, the OCLT is passed...THEN you can worry about bringing pH to comfortable swimming levels, and sweat what to do with the other equipment/filters/cartridges/pool store muckity muck.

Until then...

Add bleach, test, filter, repeat.

 

[foosboy2]

Got it!

I prefaced the Metal Magic comment with stating that I think that I wait. And for the acid I just worry that we read it wrong or that it is too high and that we are damaging something else but I will "cool down" Also so nervous about staining since it was staining that contributed so much to the issue with me putting the stain free in.

For now, it is add bleach, test, filter, repeat. Wait, what is filter?

Mitch

 

[ultra800_96]

The PH will test higher & inaccurate at FC levels above 10, so disregard it now during the shock process. That's why I wanted you to lower it when you were unable to hold FC. You had last tested 7.5 when you were below 10, so you are fine for the shock process. Hold up with the Metal Magic for now. Not sure if that has a chlorine demand or not, but don't take chances. You want your FC to be battling the organics & nothing else right now. Just liquid chlorine & keep fighting. It will get there. Keep asking questions & comments.

 

[foosboy2]

More good knowledge about the PH being inaccurate at FC levels above 10. I think there are some good things that I learned from responses that could be added shocking directions. I also have a few notes for clarity for the pool calculator that might make it easier for a newbie like me. Can I submit a suggestion to someone for improvement of some of the documentation?

The wife and kids are begining to lose patience. She measured 11 FC and 1.5 CC at 12.50. The drop was from 16 FC to 11 FC in 3 hours. I told her to tighten up the time gap from 3 hours to 1 hour and that we have to keep it above 14 FC and I am not sure it went over so well. She says this is ridiculous (especially with adding 14 gallons of 12% chlorine and almost 7 days of doing this) and is concerned if we will be able to swim this weekend. There are no other options right? ProTeam Power Magic Superoxidizer will not speed up the process right? She is used to throwing that in after a party and having it good to go the next day. I think we are close and I am telling her to remain patient but each day and each test is wearing on her.

She also wanted to know if buying a new filter would speed up the process.

Comments,
Mitch

 

[jblizzle]

Any "magic powder" is typically just adding FC (and something else you do not want like CYA or CH) ... possibly to levels higher than we recommend here to avoid damaging anything.

 

[foosboy2]

Agreed. I keep telling her we just need to "stay the course"

What about just pouring in a gallon of chlorine at a time rather than the recommendation on the pool calculator? Or should I set the new target on the pool calculator to 19 FC? But even that is only 41oz.

Mitch

 

[linen]

Can I submit a suggestion to someone for improvement of some of the documentation?

Yes you can. You can start a thread in the "Suggestion Box" sub-forum.

The wife and kids are begining to lose patience.

Yep, just as you need POP (pool owner patience), they need PUP (pool user patience). You have not use a lot of chlorine yet and your pools organic issue is still consuming it. The best you can do is keep from dropping below the minimum FC shocking level (for your cya level). If you have to, overshoot it a bit to maintain above. As for swimming, our recommendation is up to but not above your FC shock level and not when CC >0.5.

She also wanted to know if buying a new filter would speed up the process.

Clean the filter when the pressure goes up 25% from it's clean pressure. What is your clean pressure and what pressure is it at when you clean? Usually (but not always) a cartridge style filter plugs up quite fast while clearing a pool, requiring cleaning multiple times a day. Once you pass the first two shocking criteria (see my sig) and if, at that point your water clarity is not showing improvement, then we can discuss the filter more.

 

[foosboy2]

Cool. I think I have some great, helpful, clarifying suggestions.

We are cleaning the filter about every other day but not because of higher pressure. The pressure rarely moves from that start or clean filter position of 11.

You say that the filter cartridge should plug up quite fast while clearing the pool requiring cleaning multiple times a day. That is NOT happening. Is this a signal of a larger issue of some sort?

Mitch

 

[linen]

You say that the filter cartridge should plug up quite fast while clearing the pool requiring cleaning multiple times a day. That is NOT happening. Is this a signal of a larger issue of some sort?

That is typical, though there are exceptions. What does your water look like...it is clear enough to see the bottom? When is the last time you replaced the filter cartridge?

 

[jblizzle]

Does the pressure gauge go to zero when the pump is off? ... If not it could be broken.

 

[mckay]

6 pages, 114 posts and not a single picture?
This would have been a great one to watch clean up

Please give us some eye candy

 

[foosboy2]

Brand new cartridge in late August 2011. Gauge is at zero now when cleaning the cartridge. It was at 11 before cleaning. Not sure of how the water looks when we pull the cartridge out. We will try to be aware of that in the future.

I will put pics in tomorrow! Crazy part is that picture 1 really is not that bad. You would have thought it was Green and dead animals for as long as its taking.

Mitch

 

[linen]

What is your clean cartridge pressure? If you do not know, observe it this time right after starting up the clean cartridge and post the result.

Crazy part is that picture 1 really is not that bad. You would have thought it was Green and dead animals for as long as its taking.

We have seen plenty of examples of pools that, as the poster puts it, "doesn't look too bad" that take much longer then some really green swamps. There are so many factors, it is hard to predict ahead of time.

 

[foosboy2]

Yes the time has to be attributed to all the stain free I put in along with my fuzzy walls when I opened the cover.

Any comment on the filter cartridge based on the date purchased and the 0 to 11 readings?

Otherwise, I think we are headed in the right direction. We were measuring 2.0 CC and then down to 1.5 CC and now at 1.0 CC, although I guess the 12:50 reading was also basically 1.0 CC.

Wife just measured 14.5 FC and 1 CC. At 12:50 she measured 11.0 FC and 1.5 CC and then added 3/4 gallon of liquid chlorine even though pool calculator said only 66oz to take it to 19 FC.

Mitch