Sunny, if it was me, I'd get a sample, pour in about 700 oz of bleach and then head on over to the pool store to see what your water is like right now. I wouldn't waste any time getting a significant (shock level) amount of bleach in the pool.
Cloudy pool
- Thread starter sunny8088
- Start date
1. Poured 4 gallons of Aldi Tunrda 6% bleach
2. Brushed the pool
3. Cleaned the filter
4. Installed G3
After 2 hours will go to pool store to get it tested.
Note: Look like my G3 is not moving in the pool will wait for 1 more hours to check.
Regards
2. Brushed the pool
3. Cleaned the filter
4. Installed G3
After 2 hours will go to pool store to get it tested.
Note: Look like my G3 is not moving in the pool will wait for 1 more hours to check.
Regards
Sorry for the small amount , just got 4 from Aldi,
Today will get 10-15 more.
Thanks
Today will get 10-15 more.
Thanks
Now my Baracuda G3 is moving perfect
I think I did not had enough suction.
I moved the knob main drain / skimmer more towards skimmer
now its 70% skimmer / 30% main drain.
I think I did not had enough suction.
I moved the knob main drain / skimmer more towards skimmer
now its 70% skimmer / 30% main drain.
Test numbers from Pool store
TDS: 5000
CYA : 70
Tot Chlorine 8.5
Free Chlorine 8.5
PH 6.4
Tot Alk 111
Tot Hardness 306
Minerals 3300
Saturated Index: -1
When the pool store tested myresult they guy had to call expert they discussed some thing, changed few things on screen & then printed result.
Do I need to add more things ?
2. Also my Baracuda stops moving after 2 hours , I clean my filter & it starts moving.
TDS: 5000
CYA : 70
Tot Chlorine 8.5
Free Chlorine 8.5
PH 6.4
Tot Alk 111
Tot Hardness 306
Minerals 3300
Saturated Index: -1
When the pool store tested myresult they guy had to call expert they discussed some thing, changed few things on screen & then printed result.
Do I need to add more things ?
2. Also my Baracuda stops moving after 2 hours , I clean my filter & it starts moving.
Sunny, to be honest I'm not sure what you are trying to do here. Are you trying to shock? Have you done an OCLT? Have you met the three criteria to stop shocking?
Thanks for reply. As per the suggestions I poured 4 bottles of Tundra.
I thing I will get my kit on Monday.
I am try to deal with cloudy pool. Water is Blue.
I thing I will get my kit on Monday.
I am try to deal with cloudy pool. Water is Blue.
Ok, I'm not sure who said only 4 bottles, but what you need to do is bring your pool to Shock Level. By your numbers you just provided, you need to add 607 ounces of 6% bleach to obtain a shock level of 28.sunny8088 said:
Please look over Pool School. In there you will see the Chlorine/CYA Chart The CYA Chart we all use to find out what our specific Shock Level is. If you look at the Chart, you are right at your normal Target for everyday usage. You're far away from Shock Level.
Plug in your specific numbers into The Pool Calculator and you will get your levels. I just did a quick input of what you gave us, and I got the 607 ounce number.
I know it's a lot to take in at first, but once it makes sense, it will be easy for you. Trust me......
Sir,
I just looked @ CYA chart, My FC is 8.5 ? , I still need to add 6% few OZs more ?
I may be wrong.
I just looked @ CYA chart, My FC is 8.5 ? , I still need to add 6% few OZs more ?
I may be wrong.
Yes. I think it will take time for me to get familiarize with numbers
But will follow your instruction.
Thanks again for help.
But will follow your instruction.
Thanks again for help.
That's the magic number you said 28.
I was confused with pool stores report where it said your FC is 8.5 and IDEAL should be 1-3.
I was confused with pool stores report where it said your FC is 8.5 and IDEAL should be 1-3.
I'm a little concerned about that ph level of 6.4, if indeed it is accurate. Most ph tests have a lower measurement limit of 6.8.
That's **WAY** too low, and you should add some Borax (20 Mule Team from the grocery store) to bring it up to 7.2 or so. Odd that it should go from 7.6 to 6.4 like that with nothing added except bleach.
Pool stores are notoriously inaccurate in their testing, not always on purpose though. They like to have lots of gadgets and computers and give you a lot of numbers. It looks complex and scientific and such. But the bottom line is they do not give good advice overall. There is no substitute for your own testing with a good test kit.
Pool School has been suggested numerous times, and you should definitely be reading through it, but let me make a couple of generic overview statements...
The two really big things for pool water are:
1) to have it at a relatively neutral acidity/alkalinity level, which is the ph. It should be in a range from 7.2 to 7.6 in order to accommodate humans and not etch or form scale on the pool surfaces.
2) keep the water sanitary, and the only approved (in the USA) sanitizers are chlorine, bromine, and baquacil. Of these, chlorine is the cheapest, easiest, and generally most effective.
Some detail on ph - for adjustment, it is generally lowered with acid, and raised by sodium carbonate (soda ash) or borax. It will usually rise due to offgassing of carbon dioxide as well. This can be helped along by aerating the water. TA is sometimes discussed along with ph, but can be kinda confusing. I'll simply say that TA is a measure of the water's buffering capacity for ph, and if the TA is high, it will tend to cause the ph to rise. Each pool has it's own optimum TA level, and yours is fine for the moment.
Looking more closely at chlorine: Among the chlorine sources are sodium hypochlorite (bleach), calcium hypochlorite (cal-hype "shock" product), trichlor (stabilized "pucks"), and dichlor (stabilized powder). Each of these, with the exception of bleach also add other ingredients to your water. Dichlor and Trichlor add CYA (stabilizer) and Cal-Hypo adds calcium. CYA and Calcium accumulate in the water, do not diminish or wear out, and are not removed by evaporation, though refilling after splash-out and backwashing will tend to dilute the concentrations some.
Chlorine kills nasties. That's why we use it. When it does, it gives up it's own life too. For that reason, we need to replenish chlorine that has been used up as it goes away. The more nasties it has to kill, the faster it goes away. In the early stages of fighting an infestation of organic ickies, free chlorine can go away almost as fast as it gets added. The trick is to overwhelm the infestation and maintain a level high enough to keep fighting (and winning) until the nasties are all dead. We have to do that without reaching a dangerous level which may bleach out pool liners or harm other surfaces (or people). In an unstabilized pool, ie., one with no CYA, those FC levels will be around 1-3ppm. This is why you see these levels recommended by the pool stores. But this does not hold true once stabilizer is brought into the equation.
Which brings us to CYA, or stabilizer. Chlorine will degrade in UV light. So much so, that over 50% of a pools FC can be gone in a couple of hours in the sun. To mitigate this loss, we use CYA as a chlorine UV stabilizer. This helps keep the FC from going away in the sun, but at the same time it reduces the effectiveness of the chlorine. To compensate, we need to maintain a higher FC level, dictated by the CYA level of the water. This is another balancing act, and the chlorine/CYA chart is really helpful in determining what the target FC levels should be. (This seems to be an area where the pool stores are not well versed, so try not to discuss it with them - experience tells us that it is a highly frustrating exercise.
)
If the CYA gets too high, then it becomes impractical to keep an FC level high enough to sanitize the pool. Since CYA is cumulative, it must be removed by removing water and replacing with fresh. This is why we like to use unstabilized chlorine once the desired CYA levels have been reached.
It's been mentioned that shocking is a process, and it consists of raising the FC level to a higher than normal level and holding it there until all the nasties are dead. I'll break this down a bit... Chlorine is lost to two things - UV and organics. If FC is lost at night, it is because of something in the water which the chlorine is trying to kill. It's sort of like an antibiotic. It attacks the nasties, and will continue attacking until one or the other is gone. The winner is simply a matter of how much of each side is available - whatever you run out of will go away, so the trick is to keep supplying chlorine to insure it's victory. Note that algae grows fast in the right conditions, so one must be diligent in dosing it with chlorine until it is gone.
Once whatever was living in the water is gone, the FC can be allowed to drop to maintenance level (again, dependent upon CYA level) and kept there.
As for all those other specs and numbers from the pool store, just ignore them for now. And most of them even longer. And phosphates forever (I'll save that one for another time).
That should probably be enough for now, and I apologize for my tendency to ramble on.
That's **WAY** too low, and you should add some Borax (20 Mule Team from the grocery store) to bring it up to 7.2 or so. Odd that it should go from 7.6 to 6.4 like that with nothing added except bleach.
Pool stores are notoriously inaccurate in their testing, not always on purpose though. They like to have lots of gadgets and computers and give you a lot of numbers. It looks complex and scientific and such. But the bottom line is they do not give good advice overall. There is no substitute for your own testing with a good test kit.
Pool School has been suggested numerous times, and you should definitely be reading through it, but let me make a couple of generic overview statements...
The two really big things for pool water are:
1) to have it at a relatively neutral acidity/alkalinity level, which is the ph. It should be in a range from 7.2 to 7.6 in order to accommodate humans and not etch or form scale on the pool surfaces.
2) keep the water sanitary, and the only approved (in the USA) sanitizers are chlorine, bromine, and baquacil. Of these, chlorine is the cheapest, easiest, and generally most effective.
Some detail on ph - for adjustment, it is generally lowered with acid, and raised by sodium carbonate (soda ash) or borax. It will usually rise due to offgassing of carbon dioxide as well. This can be helped along by aerating the water. TA is sometimes discussed along with ph, but can be kinda confusing. I'll simply say that TA is a measure of the water's buffering capacity for ph, and if the TA is high, it will tend to cause the ph to rise. Each pool has it's own optimum TA level, and yours is fine for the moment.
Looking more closely at chlorine: Among the chlorine sources are sodium hypochlorite (bleach), calcium hypochlorite (cal-hype "shock" product), trichlor (stabilized "pucks"), and dichlor (stabilized powder). Each of these, with the exception of bleach also add other ingredients to your water. Dichlor and Trichlor add CYA (stabilizer) and Cal-Hypo adds calcium. CYA and Calcium accumulate in the water, do not diminish or wear out, and are not removed by evaporation, though refilling after splash-out and backwashing will tend to dilute the concentrations some.
Chlorine kills nasties. That's why we use it. When it does, it gives up it's own life too. For that reason, we need to replenish chlorine that has been used up as it goes away. The more nasties it has to kill, the faster it goes away. In the early stages of fighting an infestation of organic ickies, free chlorine can go away almost as fast as it gets added. The trick is to overwhelm the infestation and maintain a level high enough to keep fighting (and winning) until the nasties are all dead. We have to do that without reaching a dangerous level which may bleach out pool liners or harm other surfaces (or people). In an unstabilized pool, ie., one with no CYA, those FC levels will be around 1-3ppm. This is why you see these levels recommended by the pool stores. But this does not hold true once stabilizer is brought into the equation.
Which brings us to CYA, or stabilizer. Chlorine will degrade in UV light. So much so, that over 50% of a pools FC can be gone in a couple of hours in the sun. To mitigate this loss, we use CYA as a chlorine UV stabilizer. This helps keep the FC from going away in the sun, but at the same time it reduces the effectiveness of the chlorine. To compensate, we need to maintain a higher FC level, dictated by the CYA level of the water. This is another balancing act, and the chlorine/CYA chart is really helpful in determining what the target FC levels should be. (This seems to be an area where the pool stores are not well versed, so try not to discuss it with them - experience tells us that it is a highly frustrating exercise.
) If the CYA gets too high, then it becomes impractical to keep an FC level high enough to sanitize the pool. Since CYA is cumulative, it must be removed by removing water and replacing with fresh. This is why we like to use unstabilized chlorine once the desired CYA levels have been reached.
It's been mentioned that shocking is a process, and it consists of raising the FC level to a higher than normal level and holding it there until all the nasties are dead. I'll break this down a bit... Chlorine is lost to two things - UV and organics. If FC is lost at night, it is because of something in the water which the chlorine is trying to kill. It's sort of like an antibiotic. It attacks the nasties, and will continue attacking until one or the other is gone. The winner is simply a matter of how much of each side is available - whatever you run out of will go away, so the trick is to keep supplying chlorine to insure it's victory. Note that algae grows fast in the right conditions, so one must be diligent in dosing it with chlorine until it is gone.
Once whatever was living in the water is gone, the FC can be allowed to drop to maintenance level (again, dependent upon CYA level) and kept there.
As for all those other specs and numbers from the pool store, just ignore them for now. And most of them even longer. And phosphates forever (I'll save that one for another time).
That should probably be enough for now, and I apologize for my tendency to ramble on.
Friends,
My wife call from home & said the kit is arrived. Please let me know which tests I should perform tonight.
She said only one wife page stick on plastic box for instruction !! Will that be enough if now please send me link to detail testing process.
Thanks again.
My wife call from home & said the kit is arrived. Please let me know which tests I should perform tonight.
She said only one wife page stick on plastic box for instruction !! Will that be enough if now please send me link to detail testing process.
Thanks again.
Your initial post showed Ph : 7.6 and Tot Alkalinity: 108. Now, you show PH 6.4 and Tot Alk 111. This is not realistic if you only added bleach.
You should perform all of the tests.
You should perform all of the tests.
There's a list of the testing procedures on the inside cover of the test kit box. It covers all the tests.