Closing pool in NC-summarizing what I have learned here-please add or correct as needed

[Joseygirl]

1) Sounds like I want to close and open the pool when water temp is below 60
2) pH should be 7.4-7.6
3) I will check my TA and CA to make sure they are ok
4) I think my cover is security mesh-not sure though-I do know it was @ $3000
5) Do not need to add Polyquat?
6) Question: should I shut down the pump and drain lines-or just let it keep circulating? If I do shut it down do I have to blow the lines? They didn't when they closed it the first time after installation.
7) And if I do shut it down should I be covering pump and everything with insulation blankets as I read someone advised?
8) I saw some references to a timer, etc-not sure what all that means.
9) And finally, sounds like I need to get chlorine level to where the chart tells me for my CYA level. Shock level? Will this be all I add?

As always thank you for your help-my first year pool has been beautiful all summer-and we are still swimming!

 

[sande005]

How much you need to do depends on the lowest temps you expect to experience, ever, in your region over the winter.

I wait until the pool is in the low 50's, or even in the 40's, and open as soon as I possibly can - it may only be partially liquid, with big blocks of ice floating around. Here (Minnesota) waiting until it is near 60 to uncover guarantees a green soup. I don't trust chem tests when it is very cold, but do add CL periodically until it warms to 60.

IF your temps never get below 30, you can just keep it slowly circulating. If will always be above 34, then you can even just shut it down. But let us know what your expected lowest ever cold temps are expected to be, and then we can respond with a better answer.

For the cover - mesh are typically green, with spring strap hooks. Pour a bit of water on a small area - if most leaks through, it's mesh. If it all pools and runs off, it's not.

The only reason for covering equipment would be to keep dirt accumulation off, and to protect plastics from sun UV over the months it is not used. The amount of protection from a freeze event is almost nil.

 

[Joseygirl]

We do get below freezing temps. So I guess I should plan on that. However we would never have big blocks of ice anywhere .

 

[Newdude]

I believe you saw recs to cover the equipment with insulating blankets, for those keeping the equipment running. So yes it's for freezing temps but no, not relevant to you.

I'm 50/50 on using winter covers for the equipment. It's only going to help, unless it doesn't breathe and traps moisture which hurts.

We do get below freezing temps. So I guess I should plan on that.

You plan on the once in a lifetime freeze because once in a lifetime weather events happen every 10 years now. I wanted to compare ways of doing my new pool last year so I blew the lines one way, filled them with the hose and blew them the other way. I don't think it took 20 mins total. Once you've done it a few times it's second nature and no trouble to blow the lines.

Question: should I shut down the pump and drain lines-or just let it keep circulating?

Many in your area keep it running and turn the pump on for the duration of any freezes. Others close. It's up to you.

I saw some references to a timer, etc-not sure what all that means.

Me either. Never seen timers discussed for closing.

And finally, sounds like I need to get chlorine level to where the chart tells me for my CYA level. Shock level? Will this be all I add?

Also up to you. Some close at SLAM, others close at half SLAM and add polyquat 60. (Non copper based algecide). I honestly believe nobody is wrong here. I've done both ways and once I stopped closing with algecide and opened clean anyway, I'll never go back. It's all about opening early and closing late.

 

[Joseygirl]

Many in your area keep it running and turn the pump on for the duration of any freezes. Others close. It's up to you.

So are you saying here to leave lines alone-cut pump off when I cover. Then when and if the freezing weather comes cut the pump on while the freezing temps are here. Then pump off again when freeze temps are gone? Running this pump all year has not increased my electric bill much if any, so no worries there-just wonder if shutting down is better for equipment or worse on it.

 

[sande005]

Common advice for home owners in areas where there are brief periods of below freezing is to keep water running somewhere, to forestall freezing. It works, but is very dependent on how cold, for how long. Me? at -20F, for days at a time...would never, ever work! One overnight drop a bit below freezing - no issue, just turn the pump on before. If more often, blowing the all the lines out is cheap insurance, and not hard to do at all.

 

[Newdude]

just wonder if shutting down is better for equipment or worse on it.

The equipment doesn't care. It's sitting outside either full or empty.

So are you saying here to leave lines alone-cut pump off when I cover

If you didn't completely shut down and blow the pipes, if want to circulate the water for 15 mins once a day. At that point, I personally wouldn't even cover it. Daily UV demand falls off a cliff when its cool and a day's dose will last for a week, or eventually, weeks. That's why so many on the border of freezing areas just leave it open because it's really not much work to do so.

 

[Mdragger88]

To clarify-
*if you choose to completely winterize the pool you will need to blow out the plumbing & drain the equipment so that it doesn’t freeze.
You don’t have to cover your equipment unless you want to.
*If you choose to keep it running on a reduced schedule (you can do this with the cover on or off)
then you must make sure that the pump runs when there’s a chance of freezing temperatures (some people shelter their equipment depending upon the weather conditions/events like an ice storm)
& be prepared to winterize (drain/blow out lines) in a hurry if the power goes out. Especially if extended outages are forecasted or it’s common where you live.

For the chemistry part:
Wait till the water is 60 degrees,
Vac the pool,
Ph in the 7’s,
Ch In recommended range,
Check & record all levels,
Raise fc to slam level for your cya then do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to be sure you’re Algae free.
At that point you can cover at slam level
or
let fc fall to 1/2 way between slam & target then add polyquat 60 & cover
Up to you.

 

[Newdude]

* the best part is with 3, totally legit options, if you don't like the one you chose, you can try the others instead.

 

[Joseygirl]

So much good info. I hadn't thought about the possibility of the power going off-so good point. Covering is necessary since pool is at back of 5 acres and trees are around. Cleaning leaves is good therapy..but not sure I wanna do it all winter..

 

[Newdude]

Cleaning leaves is good therapy..but not sure I wanna do it all winter..

If you clean them up or blow them into the woods, you only need to cover or use a leaf net while they're falling. Once they're down, well, they're not falling anymore.

A few errant leaves will find the pool over the winter, but it's nothing like fall. Lol.

 

[Joseygirl]

Many of my trees are white oak, which seem to be late droppers. But being my first year of use and closure I will certainly make notes on what the leaf drop looks like for next year.

I am almost there with all your help! My decision is to wait for cooler water temps, and completely winterize the pool. I also think I will do chlorine only and not add the algecide.

The liquid chlorine has kept the pool beautiful all summer-after I figured out how often and how much for my pool. Next question is can I use those chlorine granules the pool store sold me and wouldn't take back when I decided I wanted to use liquid (no I haven't been back there since)-to shock and close the pool? If so, any ideas on how many ppm 1 pound of granules will increase for my @ 10, 000 gallon pool?

I assume I should dissolve it first and circulate and then test again before thinking about putting the cover on.