Cliff Notes on Hot Tub Chemical Inventory

[Gebo]

I have read Nitro's article on Water Chemistry numerous times and have studied it. My Hot Tub is set to be delivered by Nov 10th.

I have my Ahhsome ready to get it all cleaned out and purged. I have my Taylor test kit and have already done a few tests on my water.
I have 4 gallons of Pool Chlorine purchased from Rural King.

At the risk of being flamed (ouch), here are my questions. (I am OCD. I was hoping once I got to 60, it would loosen its grip but it has not)

I know I need to purchase acid, soda, dichor and calcium.

Do yall just buy Muriatic acid vs dry acid? Do you get big boxes of Arm and Hammer? Where do you get your calcium and dichlor? Amazon? I know I can purchase these
from a pool company. The pool company that sold me my Hot Tub is 1 1/2 hours away so I probably won't be making many trips back there.

And lastly, is there a chemical company that has a great reputation? Longevity? Better pricing? I was told SpaGuard is like the "Kleenex" in pool chemistry.

I appreciate any suggestions and direction.

 

[ajw22]

Why do you think you need calcium? Have you tested your fill water for pH, TA, CH using your new Taylor test kit?

You also may need little, if any, baking soda depending on your fill water pH and TA.

Dry acid adds sulfates to the water which is not good for the heater. Read Acid - Further Reading

 

[Gebo]

Our water is extremely soft. Must have some Calcium.

Yes, I have tested it with my trusty Taylor.

 

[Gebo]

pH 7.5
Alk 50 ppm
Cal 30 ppm

 

[Mdragger88]

Our water is extremely soft. Must have some Calcium.

Yes, I have tested it with my trusty Taylor.

So is mine (25-50ppm)- i do not add any calcium to my tub.
If you notice foaming you can add a little until it stops (up to 150) but I have never had an issue.
You need muriatic acid, liquid chlorine & dichlor (1# lasts me a year).
You can always go buy a 50 cent box of baking soda at the local $gen if the need arises.
Although if you’re following the guide & pay attention to effects of adding in
PoolMath you probably won’t need it.

 

[Gebo]

So is mine (25-50ppm)- i do not add any calcium to my tub.
If you notice foaming you can add a little until it stops (up to 150) but I have never had an issue.
You need muriatic acid, liquid chlorine & dichlor (1# lasts me a year).
You can always go buy a 50 cent box of baking soda at the local $gen if the need arises.
Although if you’re following the guide & pay attention to effects of adding in
PoolMath you probably won’t need it.

Thank you! I used to manage a 90,000 gal private pool so I know basic water chemistry. But I was using 50 lb bags of sodium bicarbonate, soda ash, calcium chloride. Gallons of muriatic acid and 50 lb pails of chlorine pellets and granular chlorine. I know how to use Taylor test kits.

Sorta hard to wrap my head around 355 gal vs 90,000 gal. LOL

 

[Mdragger88]

It’s literally teaspoons when needed - a little dab will do ya!
Careful cause its easy to over shoot in such a small volume.

 

[ILSBJ]

Considering the aging of the bleach, a 4 gallons supply is probably too much... my annual consumption in a 300 gallons hot tub is about 2.5 gallons of 14% bleach

ILSBJ

 

[Mdragger88]

The hardest part for most to grasp is the intense fc demand. Its like feast & famine.
2 people in a small tub is like a frat party in an average sized pool.
#1 rule: always keep fc above minimum for your cya FC/CYA Levels
This involves checking fc before & after soaking to ensure you don’t run low. Especially in the beginning.
Eventually you get a feel for what your normal bather loads will require. As well as what your standby fc needs are.

 

[wayner]

Consider getting a Salt Water Chlorine Generator. Best devices ever, in either pool or tub.