The ph test is invalid at fc levels above 10ppm so don’t adjust/test ph unless it falls below that.
Keep with the
SLAM Process - sand filters are the slowest to clear so patience is needed.
The low fc loss is a good thing!
Your filter may just need some time to catch up.
If you haven’t ever deep cleaned your sand you may want to consider it. When doing so it’s a good opportunity to give everything a good look over & confirm you have the appropriate amount of sand as well.
This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...
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After you’re sure the filter is good to go and you’ll be around to watch it, you can try adding a little de to help the filter catch the finer stuff.
A clean pool filter will increase the efficiency of your pool! ... your filter are to backwash it, clean the manifolds and grids, and add new DE.
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For a successful SLAM Process
you need to continue to MAINTAIN Slam level fc for your cya as often as possible (multiple times per day is best) until you meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria-
You are done when:
CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
the water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)
*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, etc.)
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the
SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.
