Chlorine Not Dropping On Its Own

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bxcrwlly

bxcrwlly

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LifeTime Supporter
Dec 3, 2012
124
Central Florida
I experienced a mild case of Mustard Algae around Thanksgiving. I ran the SLAM process which I completed 12/2/16. I've been waiting for my chlorine level to drop on its own; however, I'm not having any quick successes. Here's my test results since the SLAM.
12/1/16 - FC was at 44.5 - It had dropped 1PPM in 10 hours
12/7/16 - FC was at 42
12/12/16 - FC was at 38.5
12/16/16 - FC was at 39 - I added 1lb of Chlorine Neutralizer
12/18/16 - FC was 14 - 1.5" water added to pool
12/19/16 - FC was 19.5 - 1lb of Chlorine Neutralizer added
12/21/16 - FC was 19 - Brought sample to pool store to validate proximity to my readings. They only measure up to 4PPM so they ran what they called an Alkalinity test to verify chlorine level. Said Alkalinity indicated chlorine was within normal range. Not sure what they did; my normal range is 5-7PPM.
My SWG has been off since I began the SLAM process.
My reagents for my chlorine test kit Taylor K2006 are less than 6 months old. I'm using to level dippers of DPD Powder.
I'm using a SpeedStir for chlorine testing at 10ml water mark. The water color before Titrating is a bright red. I'm using the .5 multiplier to compute chlorine level with the drop titration process.

I'm in Central-West part of Florida. Our weather has been warm with cool spells. We've had partial to mostly sunny days. No rain.

I'm positioned to add more Chlorine Neutralizer; however, everything I've read on this site reflects that I should be seeing greater daily drops in FC levels without these additions.

Any thoughts/ideas? This situation really has me stumped.
 
The sun is now low in the sky, perhaps the water is colder now, and perhaps no one swimming and no other organic contamination to be removed? Good news is that it sounds like your algae is gone!! :)
 
PebblePool: I'm using TFP recommendations for CYA ie. 60-80 (See link below), as I have a Salt Water Generator on my pool. I chose the midpoint of 70 for my CYA and have been running at that level for over 4 years with no problems. I just want to understand whether my CYA or some other factor is holding my high chlorine levels. As long as I'm in the TFP standards I'd be o.k. with the answer and know that let's say, it is a result of the 70PPM CYA. Then I'll continue to slowly reduce chlorine levels by using Chlorine Neutralizer until I achieve the correct FC setting of 5PPM.
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
 
At 70 ppm CYA, it's safe for swimming up to 28 ppm FC (provided pH is 7.2 to 7.8 and water is clear).

Just mentioning this so you know there's no urgency to reduce your FC. Most of the chlorine in your pool is tied up with CYA, and active chlorine is only a small percentage of free chlorine.
 

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Just thought I would add that I am in north Tampa and had a similar experience with a breakout of mustard algae and also have watch FC stay relatively high and not drop as expected. My CYA is at 70 and between that and limited use of the pool and what others said above I feel much better about FC not dropping as fast as I thought it would.

That said, I'm having an issue with ALK dropping but that's a story for another thread.
 
Lawtyger.....My chlorine level is finally down....between 5 and 6ppm. I did use about 2.5lbs of Chlorine Neutralizer to drive it down only because we have a connected spa which has been exercised frequently in the last few weeks. I use Hydrogen Peroxide to dilute chlorine when the spa is isolated and with the pool chlorine being so high, I was using quite a dosage of HP in the spa. Good news is that I no longer have an MA problem and pool is crystal clear.:D BTW....I'm in the Odessa Fl. area at SR54 and Suncoast.
 
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