I think you/we need to push the reset button and start over. Are you planning on following our advice or the pool stores? Let us know.bennettair193 said:
Chlorine level won't rise after shocking
- Thread starter bennettair193
- Start date
OP needs to complete the SLAM process before trying to tweak/use the SWG for maintenance.DorsalSpine said:
During the SLAM process, the SWG can be used to help maintain shock level; however, it is not able to produce enough chlorine fast enough to reach shock level. Liquid chlorine/bleach is the best option for the SLAM process.
SWG at 100% but only 1% FC reading a
Merged by Moderator. Keep your questions together for continuity of story. At this point you have been told the same thing in both threads ... which was just a waste of my typing. jblizzle
Hi, I have been having issues maintaining a chlorine level. Both FC and TC are low. In order to address the sensitive skin issues and the cost of constant chemical purchases, we switched to a SWG last week on Wed. Here are the specs for our pool.
35000 Gallon 20 x 40 rectangular pool
Vinyl Liner
Aqua Rite T-Cell-15 SWG
Hayward Gas Heater
Automatic Pool Cover
We have been fighting rapid chlorine loss since mid July with no explanation yet. We have SLAMMED the pool based on the instructions on Pool School up to 25 for a CYA of 60. It was stable for about 2 days and then on the third day the FC was back down to .5 with a TC count of 1 With little to no demand registering, it doesn't appear that algae is using the FC. The water is clear and there is no sign of slickness on the pool surface to suggest otherwise.
We have been running the SWG at 100% for 4 days, but FC doesn't rise. Here are the most recent tests from an hour ago:
Test Kit: Taylor 2005
Pool Temp: 88 degrees
FC: 1
TC: 1.5
PH: 72
TA: 124
CYA: 60
We have removed any phosphates that may provide food for algae over a week ago, but have seen no change to the chlorine reading.
Yesterday I added 4lbs of lithium hypochlorite to the pool just to get a boost and it raised the chlorine count over 5 on the tester. This morning it was back down to 1 with the SWG still running at 100%. It has been tested for nitrates as well, with now evidence of contaminants.
I've been to all the forums and all the pool shops in the area, but no one seems to know what could be causing the total chlorine loss.
I have just added 6 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine to the pool and an trying the SLAM process one more time.
If anyone has any thoughts on what else might be causing the issue, I would appreciate any input.
Thanks.
Merged by Moderator. Keep your questions together for continuity of story. At this point you have been told the same thing in both threads ... which was just a waste of my typing. jblizzle
Hi, I have been having issues maintaining a chlorine level. Both FC and TC are low. In order to address the sensitive skin issues and the cost of constant chemical purchases, we switched to a SWG last week on Wed. Here are the specs for our pool.
35000 Gallon 20 x 40 rectangular pool
Vinyl Liner
Aqua Rite T-Cell-15 SWG
Hayward Gas Heater
Automatic Pool Cover
We have been fighting rapid chlorine loss since mid July with no explanation yet. We have SLAMMED the pool based on the instructions on Pool School up to 25 for a CYA of 60. It was stable for about 2 days and then on the third day the FC was back down to .5 with a TC count of 1 With little to no demand registering, it doesn't appear that algae is using the FC. The water is clear and there is no sign of slickness on the pool surface to suggest otherwise.
We have been running the SWG at 100% for 4 days, but FC doesn't rise. Here are the most recent tests from an hour ago:
Test Kit: Taylor 2005
Pool Temp: 88 degrees
FC: 1
TC: 1.5
PH: 72
TA: 124
CYA: 60
We have removed any phosphates that may provide food for algae over a week ago, but have seen no change to the chlorine reading.
Yesterday I added 4lbs of lithium hypochlorite to the pool just to get a boost and it raised the chlorine count over 5 on the tester. This morning it was back down to 1 with the SWG still running at 100%. It has been tested for nitrates as well, with now evidence of contaminants.
I've been to all the forums and all the pool shops in the area, but no one seems to know what could be causing the total chlorine loss.
I have just added 6 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine to the pool and an trying the SLAM process one more time.
If anyone has any thoughts on what else might be causing the issue, I would appreciate any input.
Thanks.
Re: SWG at 100% but only 1% FC reading a
have you done the overnight chlorine loss test?
have you done the overnight chlorine loss test?
Re: SWG at 100% but only 1% FC reading a
Ideally the TC should equal the FC. FC is the good stuff that should be maintained in the recommended levels based on your CYA. CC is the bad stuff that ideally should be 0.
Does not sound like you were properly following the SLAM process. Did you maintain the FC at shock level until you passed the 3 criteria. This is usually done with the SWG turned off.
SWG are not good at raising the FC, they are good at maintaining the FC level assuming there is nothing in the water consuming it.
Phosphates are meaningless and removing them is a waste of money.
Follow the SLAM process correctly and it will work. I see a problem you are going to have is you do not have to correct test kit. How are you testing and maintaining the FC at 25ppm when you kit only goes up to 5ppm? You need to add the FAS-DPD chlorine test to your kit. This is also required to correctly determine the CC levels as well as perform the OCLT correctly.
Ideally the TC should equal the FC. FC is the good stuff that should be maintained in the recommended levels based on your CYA. CC is the bad stuff that ideally should be 0.
Does not sound like you were properly following the SLAM process. Did you maintain the FC at shock level until you passed the 3 criteria. This is usually done with the SWG turned off.
SWG are not good at raising the FC, they are good at maintaining the FC level assuming there is nothing in the water consuming it.
Phosphates are meaningless and removing them is a waste of money.
Follow the SLAM process correctly and it will work. I see a problem you are going to have is you do not have to correct test kit. How are you testing and maintaining the FC at 25ppm when you kit only goes up to 5ppm? You need to add the FAS-DPD chlorine test to your kit. This is also required to correctly determine the CC levels as well as perform the OCLT correctly.
Re: SWG at 100% but only 1% FC reading a
For the size of pool you have you are at the upper limits of the cell. You might consider adding a second cell.
For the size of pool you have you are at the upper limits of the cell. You might consider adding a second cell.
Jeetyet
0
For some reason I am reminded of the movie Cool Hand Luke...
"Whut... we havvvvvve heaaaaaaah... is FAILLLLURRRRE..... tocommunicate".
"Whut... we havvvvvve heaaaaaaah... is FAILLLLURRRRE..... tocommunicate".
The T-Cell-15 handles pools up to 40,000 gallons and we're at 35,000, and we've had this problem prior to installing the salt system. I am going to try slamming the pool again, but I'll have to get different test. The pool store only carried the high level chlorine test strips which only covered FC not CC. When I SLAMMED the pool I maintained a high FC reading for several days. When I tested overnight, I lost a significant amount of FC again. The downside is that none of the stores around here carry the taylor 2006 or any of the components for the FAS-DPD test, so I have to order it on line and the chlorine will be an issue until that arrives. Is there any danger in letting the pool sit while I wait for the test to arrive in a few days?
At the risk of being the bad guy here. Without one of the recommended test kits, you haven't actually performed the SLAM process at all! You can't properly perform the process without the FAS-DPD test.
Having said that. I would order the FAS-DPD test from Dave at www.tftestkits.net or www.poolsupplyworld.com if you're on the west coast, and just keep the FC as high as your test will read until it gets there.
Once you get that test you can run an OCLT and also properly SLAM the pool.
I also recommend the SpeedStir as an option.
Having said that. I would order the FAS-DPD test from Dave at www.tftestkits.net or www.poolsupplyworld.com if you're on the west coast, and just keep the FC as high as your test will read until it gets there.
Once you get that test you can run an OCLT and also properly SLAM the pool.
I also recommend the SpeedStir as an option.
The best thing you can do for the pool is order one of the recommended test kits. I suggest you order the TF100 kit with the XL option. This is the fav kit around here, fantastic customer service, and best bang for the buck. If you order before 2pm today, it will hit the road to you today. Link in my sig.
ETA: The Speed Stir is a fantastic help with the testing.
Once you can test accurately, we can be of more help. Also, the cause of the issue is some form of organics. It does not matter which type organic, which algae, etc., the cure is the SLAM process. The SLAM process is not just adding bleach/liquid chlorine once and forget it; it is adding enough to reach the shock level FC and maintaining it. You should test as often as every hour (in the beginning) and add enough bleach/liquid chlorine again to reach shock level FC. The 6 gals of 12.5% was just a start and did not reach shock level based on the CYA.
ETA: The Speed Stir is a fantastic help with the testing.
Once you can test accurately, we can be of more help. Also, the cause of the issue is some form of organics. It does not matter which type organic, which algae, etc., the cure is the SLAM process. The SLAM process is not just adding bleach/liquid chlorine once and forget it; it is adding enough to reach the shock level FC and maintaining it. You should test as often as every hour (in the beginning) and add enough bleach/liquid chlorine again to reach shock level FC. The 6 gals of 12.5% was just a start and did not reach shock level based on the CYA.
I understand the process. I added a total of 8 gallons overall and then I left the SWG running at 100% to maintain the levels. Using the calculator on this site, it indicated 6 gallons and 1 quart of liquid chlorine 12.5% concentration will get me to a FC shock level of 24. When I checked the CYA chart, it indicated that 24 was the proper shock level for a CYA of 60, so I am confused as to how this was not enough for my CYA level. Should I be using a different calculator somewhere for this?
From there, I added another gallon about 2 hours later with the final gallon in the evening just before bed and then left the SWG running at superchlorinate level for another 24 hours. The levels were being maintained via the superchlorination on the SWG when I checked using the high range test strips, but unfortunately, I didn't have a way of testing the CC to make sure the process was finished.
I have put enough chlorine in the pool for now to keep a FC count, and I will restart the process once I have the full test kit. In the meantime, if the calculations, I came to using the calculator are not correct, can you confirm the amount of chlorine and the shock level, so I can make sure to reach the proper level?
Thank you for all of your help.
From there, I added another gallon about 2 hours later with the final gallon in the evening just before bed and then left the SWG running at superchlorinate level for another 24 hours. The levels were being maintained via the superchlorination on the SWG when I checked using the high range test strips, but unfortunately, I didn't have a way of testing the CC to make sure the process was finished.
I have put enough chlorine in the pool for now to keep a FC count, and I will restart the process once I have the full test kit. In the meantime, if the calculations, I came to using the calculator are not correct, can you confirm the amount of chlorine and the shock level, so I can make sure to reach the proper level?
Thank you for all of your help.
24 ppm FC is the right SLAM level for 60 ppm cya, but I would trust your test kit result over the pool stores, especially for cya....I would assume you have 80 ppm cya and then your shock level is 31 ppm FC.
I am assuming you are waiting for the FAS-DPD chlorine test (not to be confused with the DPD chlorine test) to come?
I probably would slow down on the chlorine additions until you can measure what is going on.
I am assuming you are waiting for the FAS-DPD chlorine test (not to be confused with the DPD chlorine test) to come?
I probably would slow down on the chlorine additions until you can measure what is going on.
bennettair193 said:I understand the process. I added a total of 8 gallons overall and then I left the SWG running at 100% to maintain the levels. Using the calculator on this site, it indicated 6 gallons and 1 quart of liquid chlorine 12.5% concentration will get me to a FC shock level of 24. When I checked the CYA chart, it indicated that 24 was the proper shock level for a CYA of 60, so I am confused as to how this was not enough for my CYA level. Should I be using a different calculator somewhere for this?
I apologize, you are correct. I had your pool at 40K
From there, I added another gallon about 2 hours later with the final gallon in the evening just before bed and then left the SWG running at superchlorinate level for another 24 hours. The levels were being maintained via the superchlorination on the SWG when I checked using the high range test strips, but unfortunately, I didn't have a way of testing the CC to make sure the process was finished.
I have put enough chlorine in the pool for now to keep a FC count, and I will restart the process once I have the full test kit. In the meantime, if the calculations, I came to using the calculator are not correct, can you confirm the amount of chlorine and the shock level, so I can make sure to reach the proper level?
You seem to understand the SLAM process wellWhen you get a few minutes, it will help responders if you add your pool and equipment specs to your sig. Go to User Control Panel, upper left, under TFP logo. Can't wait for you to get your kit! In the meantime, are you going to stock up on some 12.5%?
Thank you for all of your help.
The problem is that strips aren't reliable or accurate at that level. Just maintain until the FAS-DPD test gets there and things will be much better. You'll be able to test high enough FC levels with the accuracy required to SLAM correctly.bennettair193 said:
Thanks for the help everyone. I'll make sure to get my specs on my signature. That test kit can't come soon enough