I did the shocking process, but the water is still cloudy. No green, though. Even after LOTS of shocking, the chlorine levels are bad. I shocked with 10 pounds of shock one day and didn't see a difference in the chlorine, so I shocked again with 15 pounds. Did I undershock?
Chlorine is ok, other stuff out of whack
- Thread starter Samiam
- Start date
You're not following the process. It's not just throwing 10 lbs of so called "shock" in your pool once and then waiting a day to throw another 15 lbs in there. It's testing and adjusting the FC with the proper amount of bleach as often as once an hour to hold it at shock level for your CYA until you pass the OCLT.
Adding 10 lbs of Dichlor would raise your CYA by 17 and then adding 15 lbs would raise it another 25. If you started at 20, you now have 62 ppm CYA. You're getting right back to where you were with the CYA. Now your shock level 20 ppm which will require 12 gallons of bleach to get you there.
What was the so called shock you used? Was it Dichlor or Cal-hypo?
Adding 10 lbs of Dichlor would raise your CYA by 17 and then adding 15 lbs would raise it another 25. If you started at 20, you now have 62 ppm CYA. You're getting right back to where you were with the CYA. Now your shock level 20 ppm which will require 12 gallons of bleach to get you there.
What was the so called shock you used? Was it Dichlor or Cal-hypo?
aa62579
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Samiam said:
No, that is not the shocking process.
Shocking is a process where you use bleach to raise your FC to shock value (which you get from your CYA number). After an hour or so, you test and add more bleach to bring it back up to shock value. You continue this process as often as you can until you pass the three criteria in the OCLT.
These links explain it in more detail: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/shocking_your_pool
http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/defeating_algae
Here is a chart that shows the shock value by CYA. http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock I do think you need to carefully examine your CYA result though. The pool store got the max amount the test detects and you go the least amount the test detects. What "shock" were you using earlier? If it was di-chlor, it would have added CYA. CYA may not show up on the test for a week, so it would be important to add in that amount when trying to figure out your CYA.
Ok. I will get some bleach and start doing that after I re-check the CYA. Is regular bleach ok or should I get the liquid bleach for pools?
aa62579
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Regular, un-scented bleach with no additives is fine. (normally around 6%). Liquid chlorine is fine, too. (normally around 12%). People seems to go for whatever the best deal is or what the availability is. Just don't get any bleach that has a fragrance or says splashless and if you buy a dollar store bleach, check to make sure it isn't only 3%. You can change the % in the pool calculator to match whichever one you buy.
Samiam said:
I am fairly new here myself. It seems to me by reading your posts that you need to read pool school carefully. I read, read, and read somemore before I started the process. It really is wonderful if you follow the guidelines. I have had my pool for 22 years and been doing it wrong until this year. Now I understand how everything should be balanced. :-D
This is one option. Its is sold in the laundry aisle:
This works too (it's the same stuff) but costs more:
They have brown boxes of pool chlorinator in the pool section but in my WalMart this is up by Garden but sometimes it is in back by Toys or just on pallets in the middle of the aisle. This is essentially the same as both bleaches above but instead of being 6% chlorine (plus water and salt), it's 10% chlorine. You can make an adjustment at PoolCaluculator.com for this.
Late edit to add photo.
This works too (it's the same stuff) but costs more:
They have brown boxes of pool chlorinator in the pool section but in my WalMart this is up by Garden but sometimes it is in back by Toys or just on pallets in the middle of the aisle. This is essentially the same as both bleaches above but instead of being 6% chlorine (plus water and salt), it's 10% chlorine. You can make an adjustment at PoolCaluculator.com for this.
Late edit to add photo.
Thank you all so much for your help... I'm doing as all of you have advised....reading and shopping! I bought the liquid bleach at Walmart (the 10%) and bought some Borax and Baking Soda so that I will have them on hand because I live in a small town, and we keep our pool open longer than the store keeps supplies. GOOD NEWS: I haven't tested the water today (that pesky thing called "work" gets in the way), but my water looks much, much better. I can see the bottom, and it's a blue color, so something is working. I will test it tonight and add the bleach according to the pool calculator. Thanks again.
I am going to bet you got out of the the Wal-Mart, with the B, B, and B for less than $30... cheaper than any pool store visit.
Here are my numbers today after shocking last night with bleach and again 10 hours later this morning. pH 7.0, CYA 20, CH 300, FC 4, CC 3, TA 150, temperature 81 F. According to the pool calculator, I need to add about 9 bottles of bleach (10%, 128 oz) to get the FC to be ten times the CC level. Is that what I should do? Should I try to get the pH up first with Borax? The water looks much better, definitely blue with dead algae on bottom that I brushed, but the water is still a bit cloudy. Thank you.
aa62579
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I think you need to reread the shocking process articles I linked to above. Your shock number is based off your CYA number, not "ten times the CC level".
Also, did you ever tell us what the "shock" was that you were using. It really does make a difference in if we can trust your CYA number at 20 or not.
Also, did you ever tell us what the "shock" was that you were using. It really does make a difference in if we can trust your CYA number at 20 or not.
I am using 10% liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite). Perhaps I'm not using the Pool Calculator correctly. I put what my free chlorine number is and what the goal is, and I read elsewhere on the site that the goal is the 10x the CC. And the test kit I am using is the Taylor K-2006.
aa62579
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Okay, but the POUNDS of SHOCK from your first post - what was that. The liquid you are using now (correct) would not be measure in pounds.
I don't think you read 10x the CC in any of the instructions on how to shock from this site.
From the links above:
To shock, it is a huge help to have a FAS-DPD chlorine test. You also need to know your current CYA level, and then look up the corresponding FC shock level. You can use the The Chlorine/CYA Chart at Pool School to find the correct FC shock level for your CYA level. It is best to use bleach or liquid chlorine when shocking.
Shocking:
Measure the FC level
Add enough chlorine to bring FC up to shock level (or a little higher)
Repeat steps 1 and 2 as frequently as practical, but not more than once per hour, and not less than twice a day, until:
CC is 0.5 or lower;
An overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less;
And the water is clear.
Brush the entire pool once a day
Backwash or clean the filter as needed
Depending on what kind of filter you have, it can take the filter a week or more to completely clear up the water, even after all of the algae is dead. DE filters are usually much faster than that, but require frequent attention when cleaning up algae. Sand filters are the slowest, and cartridge filters are somewhere in-between.
While shocking, the appearance of the water should improve each day, though perhaps only by a little. If you fail to see any improvement you might have a problem with your filter, or have a higher CYA level than you think, or bad circulation, or have some other more complex problem.
The goal of shocking is to add enough chlorine to oxidize all of the algae, combined chlorine, bacteria, viruses, ammonia, and other organic contaminates. Oxidization breaks down the organic molecules into smaller parts which are harmless. When shocking, you need to keep adding chlorine until the breakdown process is complete.
Higher FC levels will oxidize contaminates more quickly, but levels that are too high can cause damage to the pool or the pool equipment. Recommended shock levels are designed to break down contaminates reasonably quickly while posing minimal risk to the pool. It is impossible to know in advance just how much chlorine will be required to shock the pool. Instead, chlorine is added to maintain shock level until testing shows that the process is complete."
*************
If your CYA is truly on 20, your shock level is 10 and is what you put in the calculator. If you are wrong about this level, and it is actually more like 60, your shock level is 24. You get these numbers from the chlorine/CYA chart linked above
To go from 4 (what you reported as your current FC) to 10 (from the CYA/chlorine chart) would take around 2 gallons of 10%. (269 oz)
If your CYA is actually 60 and we need to raise to 24, it would take 7 gallons of 10%. (896 oz)
I don't think you read 10x the CC in any of the instructions on how to shock from this site.
From the links above:
To shock, it is a huge help to have a FAS-DPD chlorine test. You also need to know your current CYA level, and then look up the corresponding FC shock level. You can use the The Chlorine/CYA Chart at Pool School to find the correct FC shock level for your CYA level. It is best to use bleach or liquid chlorine when shocking.
Shocking:
Measure the FC level
Add enough chlorine to bring FC up to shock level (or a little higher)
Repeat steps 1 and 2 as frequently as practical, but not more than once per hour, and not less than twice a day, until:
CC is 0.5 or lower;
An overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less;
And the water is clear.
Brush the entire pool once a day
Backwash or clean the filter as needed
Depending on what kind of filter you have, it can take the filter a week or more to completely clear up the water, even after all of the algae is dead. DE filters are usually much faster than that, but require frequent attention when cleaning up algae. Sand filters are the slowest, and cartridge filters are somewhere in-between.
While shocking, the appearance of the water should improve each day, though perhaps only by a little. If you fail to see any improvement you might have a problem with your filter, or have a higher CYA level than you think, or bad circulation, or have some other more complex problem.
The goal of shocking is to add enough chlorine to oxidize all of the algae, combined chlorine, bacteria, viruses, ammonia, and other organic contaminates. Oxidization breaks down the organic molecules into smaller parts which are harmless. When shocking, you need to keep adding chlorine until the breakdown process is complete.
Higher FC levels will oxidize contaminates more quickly, but levels that are too high can cause damage to the pool or the pool equipment. Recommended shock levels are designed to break down contaminates reasonably quickly while posing minimal risk to the pool. It is impossible to know in advance just how much chlorine will be required to shock the pool. Instead, chlorine is added to maintain shock level until testing shows that the process is complete."
*************
If your CYA is truly on 20, your shock level is 10 and is what you put in the calculator. If you are wrong about this level, and it is actually more like 60, your shock level is 24. You get these numbers from the chlorine/CYA chart linked above
To go from 4 (what you reported as your current FC) to 10 (from the CYA/chlorine chart) would take around 2 gallons of 10%. (269 oz)
If your CYA is actually 60 and we need to raise to 24, it would take 7 gallons of 10%. (896 oz)
The shock level for 20 CYA is about 10 ppm FC.
You can use the Chlorine/CYA Chart, link in my sig, or the PoolCalculator.
ETA: Allison types fast
You can use the Chlorine/CYA Chart, link in my sig, or the PoolCalculator.
ETA: Allison types fast
Allison, I believe the CYA is the true measure because the "pounds" of shock I used were calcium hypochlorite, and as I understand it, that would not increase my CYA. The Taylor test kit I have comes up with that every time (recently) that I have tested it. My pool is exposed to sunlight all day long with no trees or shadowing or covers. Thank you for the information. I had read that in the Pool School. I'm beginning to understand the full process.
Thank you, Butterfly, for the information, too. I will now go add some more bleach.
Thank you, Butterfly, for the information, too. I will now go add some more bleach.
aa62579
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Samiam said:
And, finally we have an answer! Yes, since you used cal-hypo, you can trust your CYA of 20, so your target FC during shocking is 10.
A lot of stuff called "shock" is di-chlor which does add CYA.
Hallelujah and Amen! I get it! 
I feel like when I first became a Christian and saw the light! I understand the BBB methodology and it makes sense. I'm a believer!!! The Pool Calculator and the Chlorine/CYA chart are the Bibles of the BBB system.
I did what you all said and, yes, I read the directions and followed the instructions (finally
). Thank you for not being condescending and for being patient with me. I am so excited to work with my pool this summer.
I feel like when I first became a Christian and saw the light! I understand the BBB methodology and it makes sense. I'm a believer!!! The Pool Calculator and the Chlorine/CYA chart are the Bibles of the BBB system. I did what you all said and, yes, I read the directions and followed the instructions (finally
). Thank you for not being condescending and for being patient with me. I am so excited to work with my pool this summer.I have read on this site that it's ok to keep trichlor tablets in your skimmer baskets as long as you keep the filter/pump running and as long as your CYA doesn't increase or rise above recommended levels. Is this ok, or have I missed something? My CYA is still only around 20-25.
That's correct. Just keep an eye on the pH and the CYA as you go along because trichlor tends to drive down pH and up CYA.
Thank you, Dave. On another note, is it possible to "overshock" your pool? Or if you accidentally add too much bleach, is it just a matter of waiting and watching until the FC reduces to the level where it's safe to swim. What is that level, by the way?