Chlorine feeder issue

[lamia1]

I have a Pentair 300 offline chlorine feeder, it's set to zero yet my pool's chlorine level stays above 3ppm. The feeder was installed by the contractor with the feeder "in" line before the filter vs. after (which is what the manual suggests). When I open the chlorine canister while the pump is running, it is full and immediately overflows despite having it's valve at zero.
1. When the valve is at zero, shouldn't that stop any water from entering the chlorine chamber? If so, then the valve is potentially defective. Except it's a new valve and the 3rd after the first two failed within 6 mo's of each other (started leaking/cracked).
2. My concern is that there is too much pressure due to the feeder line attachment before vs. after the filter, though the filter pressure valve shows 20 psi so I don't believe it could dramatically higher before entering the filter. Could the pressure be the issue?

Any other suggestions? My thought is to try to replumb with the filter "in" line after the filter to see if that solves the issue, but I would need to seal the original hole in the pvc pipe somehow- I don't know what to use.
I'd appreciate any help. Thanks, Phil

 

[reggiehammond]

Spend a few minutes in Pool Care Basics and you’ll see that pucks and chlorinators have many problems, and are not recommended.

You’d be best off just ripping the chlorinator out and replacing with a SWCG (salt water chlorine generator.)
Pucks contain free chlorine and cyanuric acid. The chlorine gets used up quickly, the CYA sticks around and ruins your ability to balance your pool water.

 

[Bperry]

I have a Pentair 300 offline chlorine feeder, it's set to zero yet my pool's chlorine level stays above 3ppm. The feeder was installed by the contractor with the feeder "in" line before the filter vs. after (which is what the manual suggests). When I open the chlorine canister while the pump is running, it is full and immediately overflows despite having it's valve at zero.
1. When the valve is at zero, shouldn't that stop any water from entering the chlorine chamber? If so, then the valve is potentially defective. Except it's a new valve and the 3rd after the first two failed within 6 mo's of each other (started leaking/cracked).
2. My concern is that there is too much pressure due to the feeder line attachment before vs. after the filter, though the filter pressure valve shows 20 psi so I don't believe it could dramatically higher before entering the filter. Could the pressure be the issue?

Any other suggestions? My thought is to try to replumb with the filter "in" line after the filter to see if that solves the issue, but I would need to seal the original hole in the pvc pipe somehow- I don't know what to use.
I'd appreciate any help. Thanks, Phil

Chlorine coming out of the feeder needs to be plumbed into the pipe after everything else. I suspect it can take in water from anywhere but super-chlorinated water entering the filter isn’t right.

As for the saddle fittings for the in/out tubes, I’m not sure how to plug those. May need to cut them out and glue in a joint fitting.

But you would be better off long term especially if you’re already changing plumbing to switch to salt chlorination (SWCG) instead of trichlor like mentioned above.

 

[lamia1]

Chlorine is coming out of the feeder after the heater so goes right into the line to the manifold/cleaning heads in the pool. I'm not switching as i have a ton of chlorine tabs. Do you know if the feeder should not fill up when it's valve is closed? that's all I really need to know at this point. It would indicate that the valve is faulty.