Chlorine depletion?

[JoyfulNoise]

There is no simple method for differentiating bromine from chlorine. Once you add chlorine to the water it creates active bromine and you’ll have a mix of both. Both halogens show up as pink on the DPD-FAS test.

 

[robbiem44]

Once your kit comes you will also know how much cya & ch you have as well so if either are really high you can be sure to exchange the correct amount of water. There’s a reason you got algae in the first place- low fc in relation to your cya
FC/CYA Levels.
The fas/dpd kit can also test bromine levels.

Testing Bromine with a Taylor 2006 Kit

Are there different reagents to test from Bromine? I read that a chlorine test can be done and the result multiplied.

www.troublefreepool.com

Replacing water is only part of the solution.
To rid yourself of algae you will need to do the
SLAM Process after your water exchange.
How were you chlorinating previously?

Well, last year, and years prior, I was using chlorine tabs in an inline chlorinator, with an occasional shock. My chlorine levels stayed quite high.

But, then late last summer I started noticing some green algae here and there, and was told my CYA was too high, and was advised to add water to dilute. I also stopped using the tabs because I read that they contribute to higher CYA levels. So, I started shocking more frequently. By this time, though, it was late fall and my chlorine levels were staying pretty stable, and I was able to get my CYA levels down to a reasonable level.

Starting this spring, I began noticing what I believe is mustard algae forming in spots, and that's when research led me to this Yellow Treat.

 

[kul]

I also stopped using the tabs because I read that they contribute to higher CYA levels. So, I started shocking more frequently.

It is accurate that tabs have CYA and can lead to it increasing if used. However, depending on what you were using to shock your pool, you may have been adding it via that method as well. Your testing once you get your kit will give you a better idea of where you stand. Hang tight for now. You can’t know what to do until you know what your tests measure.

 

[robbiem44]

It is accurate that tabs have CYA and can lead to it increasing if used. However, depending on what you were using to shock your pool, you may have been adding it via that method as well. Your testing once you get your kit will give you a better idea of where you stand. Hang tight for now. You can’t know what to do until you know what your tests measure.

Yup ... thanks! Expecting the kit on Saturday. Will definitely update this thread accordingly.

Really appreciate all the advice!

 

[robbiem44]

Okay, I received my Taylor test kit. As it so happens I took it to Leslie's earlier today, and the numbers are different. Can I assume the Taylor test kit is more accurate?

Here's what I found doing a FC/CC, pH and CYA test for the first time:
FC: 1.0 (Leslie's was 0.6)
CC: 0 (Leslie's came back at 0.6... Total was 1.2)
pH: 7.3 (per Leslie's earlier today, it was 7.9, so I added a bunch of dry acid to bring it down. We had quite a bit of rain over the last couple days and were expecting a bunch more tonight. As I understand, rain raises pH)
CYA: about 62

I haven't seen any visible algae over the last few days, but even though I added 5cc worth of bleach Wednesday evening, my FC is down to 1.0. I just added another 5cc worth a few minutes ago.

Will re-measure tomorrow.

I guess I should still go thru the SLAM process in the coming days?

 

[Newdude]

As it so happens I took it to Leslie's earlier today, and the numbers are different.

See ?

Can I assume the Taylor test kit is more accurate?

Yes. You are now the smartest kid in the class. Never. Ever. Cheat off the dumbest kid in the class. I don't give a flying patootie that he got one right last time. My money is on you, any day of the week.

 

[robbiem44]

See ?

Yes. You are now the smartest kid in the class. Never. Ever. Cheat off the dumbest kid in the class. I don't give a flying patootie that he got one right last time. My money is on you, any day of the week.

Love the analogy!!

 

[Newdude]

even though I added 5cc worth of bleach Wednesday evening, my FC is down to 1.0

FC burns off daily and needs to be replaced as such, or double dosed to go evert 2 days. (Once you have a good feel for the pool). Right now in the early season, 2ppm loss is about right. In the peak season it will be 4+ because Texas.

CYA: about 62

Round up any non 10. 61 to 69 is a 70. And so on.

 

[Mdragger88]

5cc worth of bleach Wednesday evening, my FC is down to 1.0. I just added another 5cc worth a few minutes ago.

??? - 5cc’s is only .169 oz, do you mean 5ppm worth?
Your cya counts as 70 (always round up if between two lines) that means your target fc is 8-10ppm

You also didn’t list your ch (calcium hardness) which may also be high if you’ve been using cal hypo.
70 ppm cya is a bit high for a manually chlorinated pool but it’s usually doable for a little while until the level comes down so long as you remain algae free. The exception here is that you have an unknown amount of bromine in your water so every time you add fc you’re just reactivating the bromine. The bromine is not protected from the sun by the cya like chlorine is so you go from fine immediately after dosing to no sanitizer by the end of the day. The algae will return if it hasn’t already. If you drain/do a water exchange you will be in a position to actually do the
SLAM Process & win the battle along with ridding yourself of your bromine problems.
Read up on the no drain water exchange
Section 3.5

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[woodyp]

Welcome to the forum. Home of the cheapest most accurate "professionals" you'll find. You might have to bite the bullet on a drain this time but we'll educate you so you never have to again.

 

[robbiem44]

??? - 5cc’s is only .169 oz, do you mean 5ppm worth?
Your cya counts as 70 (always round up if between two lines) that means your target fc is 8-10ppm
View attachment 486953
You also didn’t list your ch (calcium hardness) which may also be high if you’ve been using cal hypo.
70 ppm cya is a bit high for a manually chlorinated pool but it’s usually doable for a little while until the level comes down so long as you remain algae free. The exception here is that you have an unknown amount of bromine in your water so every time you add fc you’re just reactivating the bromine. The bromine is not protected from the sun by the cya like chlorine is so you go from fine immediately after dosing to no sanitizer by the end of the day. The algae will return if it hasn’t already. If you drain/do a water exchange you will be in a position to actually do the
SLAM Process & win the battle along with ridding yourself of your bromine problems.
Read up on the no drain water exchange
Section 3.5

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Yes, 5ppm. Idk where I got cc's from.

I'll take a more thorough measurement including CH.

Are you saying I shouldn't bother SLAM'ing until I do a water exchange or drain/refill?

 

[Mdragger88]

Yes, 5ppm. Idk where I got cc's from.

I'll take a more thorough measurement including CH.

Are you saying I shouldn't bother SLAM'ing until I do a water exchange or drain/refill?

You can attempt it but it will eat alot of chlorine which is $5-$8 a gallon - even exchanging 1/2 the water would put you in a better place, a full exchange would be ideal. Water is fairly cheap compared to chlorine.
Slam level for 70ppm cya is 28ppm which is a tough go without bromine/bromide in the picture. As mentioned, the bromide doesn’t really leave without exchanging water.
You’re not the only Texan with this exact problem right now.

Yellow Treat / No Mor Problems: The Bromine Dilemma

Hello all, I have been taking care of my pool for about 2 years now and for the most part its been fine. I deal with some scaling and algae blooms here and there but nothing has gotten out of hand. This year the blooms were starting out pesky so I took some water in to test at Leslie's. My CYA...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Getting rid of the bromine laden water also has another benefit - reduction of exposure to bromate (BrO3^-) contamination. Hypochlorous acid, in the presence of UV light, will create a small amount of bromate as it oxidizes bromide to bromine. Bromate is a more highly oxidized form of bromine and stable once it is formed. It’s also classified as a possible carcinogenic contaminant in drinking water by the EPA which is why water suppliers go to great lengths to avoid bromine as much as possible (lake and reservoir waters tend to have high enough concentrations of dissolved bromide to be an issue). Ozonation is the fastest way to create bromate followed up by electrolysis and hypochlorite/UV.

Just get rid of as much water as you can. It will help. Bromine is a terrible sanitizer for outdoor pools. Causes more problems than it fixes.

 

[robbiem44]

Thanks so much!

As far as Bromine goes, the concern is that Yellow Treat I added, right? If I didn't add that would we not think there is bromine in the water? As I know, there isn't any way to know for sure if or how much bromine is in the water?

What other ways are there to introduce bromine? Could it be worse than just what we're estimating from the 15cc of sodium bromide I added?

I guess what I'm asking is, if there's no way to keep bromine in check, how do you even know if you have a problem in the first place (my adding Yello Treat, notwithstanding)?

 

[Mdragger88]

Thanks so much!

As far as Bromine goes, the concern is that Yellow Treat I added, right? If I didn't add that would we not think there is bromine in the water? As I know, there isn't any way to know for sure if or how much bromine is in the water?

What other ways are there to introduce bromine? Could it be worse than just what we're estimating from the 15cc of sodium bromide I added?

I guess what I'm asking is, if there's no way to keep bromine in check, how do you even know if you have a problem in the first place (my adding Yello Treat, notwithstanding)?

Bromine/bromide doesn’t get in the pool unless you add it. You added it. If you replace the water with fresh & never add it again there wont be any

 

[robbiem44]

Bromine/bromide doesn’t get in the pool unless you add it. You added it. If you replace the water with fresh & never add it again there wont be any

Okay, I did another test after having added the 5ppm of bleach yesterday afternoon.

FC: 6.4
CC: 0? (didn't turn pink at all after adding the
reagent)
pH: 7.3
TA: 110
CH: 400
CYA: 50? (in better light compared to yesterday, the reading came back under 50)

I'm going to see how much my FC dips throughout the day, which is fairly sunny. Then I'll look into water replacement.

Thanks everyone!

 

[Mdragger88]

Okay, I did another test after having added the 5ppm of bleach yesterday afternoon.

FC: 6.4
CC: 0? (didn't turn pink at all after adding the
reagent)
pH: 7.3
TA: 110
CH: 400
CYA: 50? (in better light compared to yesterday, the reading came back under 50)

I'm going to see how much my FC dips throughout the day, which is fairly sunny. Then I'll look into water replacement.

Thanks everyone!

The ch of 400 is a little high. Likely from cal hypo use.
Lets Test your fill water for-
Ch,
Ph,
Ta
So you know what you’re working with.

 

[robbiem44]

The ch of 400 is a little high. Likely from cal hypo use.
Lets Test your fill water for-
Ch,
Ph,
Ta
So you know what you’re working with.

Fill water...
CH : 80
pH: 8.0+
TA: 110

I measured pool FC today and it was way down. Less than 1ppm.

Not sure in following the no drain water exchange. In the past when I had high CYA, Leslie's told me to put the hose at the bottom of the pool and let the surface water drain out (there's a drain just above water level). Is that the way to go here?

Thanks!

 

[Mdragger88]

Fill water...
CH : 80
pH: 8.0+
TA: 110

I measured pool FC today and it was way down. Less than 1ppm.

Not sure in following the no drain water exchange. In the past when I had high CYA, Leslie's told me to put the hose at the bottom of the pool and let the surface water drain out (there's a drain just above water level). Is that the way to go here?

Thanks!

Read up on the no drain water exchange- it involves using a submersible pump & it depends on the differences in water temperature as to where to pump from & where to add

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com