is it a bad idea to start the chlorinator?
how long would the initial shock chlorine last
how long would the initial shock chlorine last
Calcium question
- Thread starter poolnoob
- Start date
It sounds like chemicals the pool store gave you is the standard 'opening' kit (and also the same as a 'closing' kit in the fall). It's 900gm of oxidizer, 1 litre of 40% algaecide and 1 litre of stain and scale remover. I don't suppose it will hurt, but as everyone has been telling you, just chlorine will work fine.
I appreciate the help, I will definitely keep that in my next year when opening the pool
Let me tell you, the staff at the local pool store were not helpful at all, spoke to 2 employees who basically gave me the each the opposite advise, go figure, one even told me I didnt have to run the pump while adding my start up kit..
so to go back to my last question, until I can get to the tests done (in a couple of days hopefully) should I start my salt water chlorinator?
Let me tell you, the staff at the local pool store were not helpful at all, spoke to 2 employees who basically gave me the each the opposite advise, go figure, one even told me I didnt have to run the pump while adding my start up kit..
so to go back to my last question, until I can get to the tests done (in a couple of days hopefully) should I start my salt water chlorinator?
It works best if get everything balanced before starting up the SWG. The only thing you absolutely need to wait for is salt. Don't run the SWG until it has been 24 hours after adding salt. For everything else, it is more straight forward to wait, but you don't have to.
so I havent started my salt water chlorinator yet, I will go have my water tested today..
I notice last night when I turned the pool light, I observed the water flowing by the light and it seems to have very small white particals, maybe its salt (which I added the day before) maybe its dirt, but the pool remains cloudy
have anyone seen these little white particals before?
I notice last night when I turned the pool light, I observed the water flowing by the light and it seems to have very small white particals, maybe its salt (which I added the day before) maybe its dirt, but the pool remains cloudy
have anyone seen these little white particals before?
Yes, small "floaters" are common when looking at water with an underwater light at night. They are not a problem.
Hi guys,
I just got back from the pool store and here are my test results
Alcalinity: 100
P.h. 7.2
Hardness : 120
Chlorine: high, cause i just shocked
Cya: about 10
Im a little worried about the cya test cause the kid at the counter didnt seem to know what he was doing, he said most people with salt water pools dont put CYA,
I had put some last year and the level was about 50 shouldnt there be some left over this ( i drained the pool half way durin the winter) i was told that cya does not leave the pool unless theres water loss,
Should i add enough for a 50 level?
There telling i should raise calcium hardness level, is 120 enough?
Anything else i should do at this point, my water is still cloudy?
I just got back from the pool store and here are my test results
Alcalinity: 100
P.h. 7.2
Hardness : 120
Chlorine: high, cause i just shocked
Cya: about 10
Im a little worried about the cya test cause the kid at the counter didnt seem to know what he was doing, he said most people with salt water pools dont put CYA,
I had put some last year and the level was about 50 shouldnt there be some left over this ( i drained the pool half way durin the winter) i was told that cya does not leave the pool unless theres water loss,
Should i add enough for a 50 level?
There telling i should raise calcium hardness level, is 120 enough?
Anything else i should do at this point, my water is still cloudy?
Everything would be much simpler if you got your own test kit. I recommend the TF100 from TFTestKits.net. The Taylor K-2006 is also good.
CYA should be between 70 and 80 with a SWG.
CYA should be between 70 and 80 with a SWG.